'93 RX7 FD Corner Weights with LS1
04-29-07, 04:10 PM
#52
Super Snuggles
Let us know what you find out. A complete lack of pictorial evidence and numerous contradictory statements about parts lead me to believe that there's not much substance to this project.
05-01-07, 12:56 PM
#56
Schadenfreude...Ha Ha
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Originally Posted by gnx7
I'll keep it more of a mystery... than chronicle my entire life.
This kind of mystery?
Originally Posted by gnx7
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-tec...tml#post339954
I picked up another FD identical to that one. Same color, model, blown rear rotor. Single owner and garaged for the last 7 years. Very clean like that one. LS7 FD is chapter II in my LS1/FD story.
I picked up another FD identical to that one. Same color, model, blown rear rotor. Single owner and garaged for the last 7 years. Very clean like that one. LS7 FD is chapter II in my LS1/FD story.
Originally Posted by gnx7
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-non...tml#post341069
I just got the quote for having an LS7 built up. My jaw hit the floor. I'm looking at other options potentially.
I just got the quote for having an LS7 built up. My jaw hit the floor. I'm looking at other options potentially.
Originally Posted by gnx7
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-tec...tml#post342838
My engine is being built and I don't have a Kmember. Not much progress. Goal is to be driveable by SevenStock 2006. It will be a miracle if it is done by then.
My engine is being built and I don't have a Kmember. Not much progress. Goal is to be driveable by SevenStock 2006. It will be a miracle if it is done by then.
Originally Posted by gnx7
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-non...tml#post347733
Will be putting up my LS1/FD formally for sale in about 2 weeks. Need to fund my LS7 buildup.
Will be putting up my LS1/FD formally for sale in about 2 weeks. Need to fund my LS7 buildup.
Originally Posted by gnx7
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-tec...tml#post359681
I finally sent down my rods (Lunati ProMod billets) for my LS7. Should be done in the next few weeks I imagine.
I finally sent down my rods (Lunati ProMod billets) for my LS7. Should be done in the next few weeks I imagine.
Originally Posted by gnx7
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-non...tml#post364268
Soooo.... that means I need some new street shoes for the silver LS7 FD I'm building. I'm running stock rolled front fenders and will have Petit rear flares on the car. My current thoughts are the SP500 or the 505A rim from CCW in Florida. 18x8.5" front and 18x11.5 rear. 255/35/18 front and 335/30/18 rear tire for the street. I want a tall profile/sidewall on the car as it rides soooo much better than a tire with no sidewall. For the race track I'm running CCW
"classic" 18x10.5" front and 18x12.5" rears with 285/30/18 and 335/30/18 R3S04 Hoosiers.
Soooo.... that means I need some new street shoes for the silver LS7 FD I'm building. I'm running stock rolled front fenders and will have Petit rear flares on the car. My current thoughts are the SP500 or the 505A rim from CCW in Florida. 18x8.5" front and 18x11.5 rear. 255/35/18 front and 335/30/18 rear tire for the street. I want a tall profile/sidewall on the car as it rides soooo much better than a tire with no sidewall. For the race track I'm running CCW
"classic" 18x10.5" front and 18x12.5" rears with 285/30/18 and 335/30/18 R3S04 Hoosiers.
Originally Posted by gnx7
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-tec...tml#post366774
My goal with the dry sump 427 LS7 is to run 140mph n/a and with a 100hp nitrous shot to eclipse the 150mph mark.
My goal with the dry sump 427 LS7 is to run 140mph n/a and with a 100hp nitrous shot to eclipse the 150mph mark.
Originally Posted by gnx7
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-tec...tml#post367305
Myself and NATerry are making a subframe to enable the LS7 dry sump motor to work.
Myself and NATerry are making a subframe to enable the LS7 dry sump motor to work.
Originally Posted by gnx7
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-tec...tml#post368855
There are a few of us with FD's building dry sump LS7 setups.
I hope to make 575rwhp/500rwtq n/a on 91 octane. That should allow the car to run mid 10's@140mph n/a with road race suspension. With a 100-150hp nitrous shot 150mph+ in the 1/4 will be a breeze with total reliability.
There are a few of us with FD's building dry sump LS7 setups.
I hope to make 575rwhp/500rwtq n/a on 91 octane. That should allow the car to run mid 10's@140mph n/a with road race suspension. With a 100-150hp nitrous shot 150mph+ in the 1/4 will be a breeze with total reliability.
Originally Posted by gnx7
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-tec...tml#post369010
With a 7300rpm redline (built LS7), 335/30/18's (25.9" tall) rear tire, 1:1 4th I can go 144mph... into 5th with a custom .83 gear it should go 175mph approx.
With a 7300rpm redline (built LS7), 335/30/18's (25.9" tall) rear tire, 1:1 4th I can go 144mph... into 5th with a custom .83 gear it should go 175mph approx.
Originally Posted by gnx7
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-tec...tml#post370501
I pulled the engine on my next FD project (LS7) last weekend also.
I pulled the engine on my next FD project (LS7) last weekend also.
Originally Posted by gnx7
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-non...tml#post371747
Keeping my options open.
I have one super mint silver Touring FD I bought 3-4 months ago that is supposed to get the LS7 I'm building; however I want to commute in the car and don't see why I should rack up 2K+ miles/month on a $10K+ dry sump race engine.... when I can just plop a heads/cam LS1 setup in there.
Keeping my options open.
I have one super mint silver Touring FD I bought 3-4 months ago that is supposed to get the LS7 I'm building; however I want to commute in the car and don't see why I should rack up 2K+ miles/month on a $10K+ dry sump race engine.... when I can just plop a heads/cam LS1 setup in there.
Originally Posted by gnx7
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-tec...tml#post372572
My LS7 should spin to 7300-7500rpm with a zero maintenance hydraulic roller cam inside and make 575rwhp/500rwtq n/a on 91 octane.
My LS7 should spin to 7300-7500rpm with a zero maintenance hydraulic roller cam inside and make 575rwhp/500rwtq n/a on 91 octane.
Originally Posted by gnx7
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-non...tml#post378582
Pick up my Bday present to myself hopefully next weekend if it is done (Mike aka LS1-FD and Nate aka NataNA are picking up their LS7's also then). Mine is a dry sump 11.25:1 compression rebuilt LS7 (Lunati billet rods/Wiseco pistons) with ported LS7 heads and 2.20" titanium valves (they flow intake 360cfm/exhaust 250cfm thru the intake), ported LS7 intake and healthy 252/259 .644" 110+2LSA cam. If this thing doesn't make 575rwhp NA I don't know what will. 3500-7500rpm powerband :yup:
Pick up my Bday present to myself hopefully next weekend if it is done (Mike aka LS1-FD and Nate aka NataNA are picking up their LS7's also then). Mine is a dry sump 11.25:1 compression rebuilt LS7 (Lunati billet rods/Wiseco pistons) with ported LS7 heads and 2.20" titanium valves (they flow intake 360cfm/exhaust 250cfm thru the intake), ported LS7 intake and healthy 252/259 .644" 110+2LSA cam. If this thing doesn't make 575rwhp NA I don't know what will. 3500-7500rpm powerband :yup:
Originally Posted by gnx7
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-tec...tml#post383385
There are a few FD's with wet sump resleeved LSx motors and LS7 heads/intake running around.
But none to date with a real dry sump LS7 motor. In the spring time that should change as there are a few here in the Bay Area that should be breathing fire by then. Real LS7 block, real LS7 crank, and of course the dry sump system.
There are a few FD's with wet sump resleeved LSx motors and LS7 heads/intake running around.
But none to date with a real dry sump LS7 motor. In the spring time that should change as there are a few here in the Bay Area that should be breathing fire by then. Real LS7 block, real LS7 crank, and of course the dry sump system.
Originally Posted by gnx7
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-tec...tml#post385034
Good to see that they will be making about as much as my n/a built LS7
Good to see that they will be making about as much as my n/a built LS7
Originally Posted by gnx7
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-tec...tml#post388164
Please note that the Hinson standard kit aluminum driveshaft isn't rated beyond 600-700hp.
I called Brian Hinson and he said my LS7 application (600rwhp + nitrous) should upgrade to a beefier one than the one offered in the normal kit.
Please note that the Hinson standard kit aluminum driveshaft isn't rated beyond 600-700hp.
I called Brian Hinson and he said my LS7 application (600rwhp + nitrous) should upgrade to a beefier one than the one offered in the normal kit.
Originally Posted by gnx7
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-tec...tml#post388450
In my latest conversion I'm going to run a Textralia twin disk Exo-Skel rated at 1000hp. It is supposed to have a nice pedal feel and can handle lots of abuse. You don't need one of these unless you are making upwards of 700hp. I want to spray a 100-150hp shot of nitrous and am expecting 800rwtq+ from that little hit.
In my latest conversion I'm going to run a Textralia twin disk Exo-Skel rated at 1000hp. It is supposed to have a nice pedal feel and can handle lots of abuse. You don't need one of these unless you are making upwards of 700hp. I want to spray a 100-150hp shot of nitrous and am expecting 800rwtq+ from that little hit.
My LS7/FD will be running in June.
05-01-07, 01:52 PM
#58
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Originally Posted by phoenix7
that's the thing Jimlab. BECAUSE it's someone else's car THEY (YOU) should be able to say:
"no, even though the motor sit much higher that the stock motor it does not affect handling because..."
Or
"no, you retard. Just because 1/2 the motor and accessories are PAST the front axle doesn't mean handling is affected because..."
OR
"Look chump, Having 400HP available at 2500RPM does not affect the way a 2800lbs car handles because..."
So you can call it an emotional, illogical fascination with the rotary but I call it like I see it and no one has shown me anything yet. All I know is that it makes power and you don't need to do as much maintenance (which is where your reliability argument comes in.).
"no, even though the motor sit much higher that the stock motor it does not affect handling because..."
Or
"no, you retard. Just because 1/2 the motor and accessories are PAST the front axle doesn't mean handling is affected because..."
OR
"Look chump, Having 400HP available at 2500RPM does not affect the way a 2800lbs car handles because..."
So you can call it an emotional, illogical fascination with the rotary but I call it like I see it and no one has shown me anything yet. All I know is that it makes power and you don't need to do as much maintenance (which is where your reliability argument comes in.).
06-11-07, 03:34 PM
#59
I currently own three FD's. One has a built LS1, one a built single turbo 13b and the last is almost bone stock 95. They all fell slightly different when driving but thats not due to what the engine bay holds.
Phoenix PM me we can meet up and i will give you a ride. You will be ready to do the swap by the end of the day.
Also just for documentation, so Jimlab and others can refer back in the future. I will be swaping the 95 this winter. I will weight the car before and after changing nothing but the motor.
I will make sure the gas is at the same level and that nothing is removed or added to the interior. I will weight it at a local dump with a drive on scale. I have been told by them it should be with in 10 to 20 pounds at all times giving us a 40 pound max that it could be off. Not perfect but it should be acceptable for our needs.
I will start a thread in this section when i get the base (before) weight.
Phoenix PM me we can meet up and i will give you a ride. You will be ready to do the swap by the end of the day.
Also just for documentation, so Jimlab and others can refer back in the future. I will be swaping the 95 this winter. I will weight the car before and after changing nothing but the motor.
I will make sure the gas is at the same level and that nothing is removed or added to the interior. I will weight it at a local dump with a drive on scale. I have been told by them it should be with in 10 to 20 pounds at all times giving us a 40 pound max that it could be off. Not perfect but it should be acceptable for our needs.
I will start a thread in this section when i get the base (before) weight.
06-29-07, 03:18 AM
#62
Super Snuggles
Hey Drew, maybe he was referring to the same kind of mystery he maintained when he chronicled the build-up of his first FD...
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/231081-post76.html
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/231081-post76.html
07-02-07, 02:23 PM
#64
Super Snuggles
Well, 95Eclipse has a point. Mark didn't specify the year. 
He's probably recuperating from the expense of the Racing Brake big brake kit and Penske shocks and waiting for his next 300% bonus so he can afford the engine he's been making power and E.T./mph predictions for over the last 8+ months.
Of course, we haven't even seen pictures of the new roller yet, and I could have sworn that the picture he sent me of the new project car is identical to the old project car he says he sold, so...
He's probably recuperating from the expense of the Racing Brake big brake kit and Penske shocks and waiting for his next 300% bonus so he can afford the engine he's been making power and E.T./mph predictions for over the last 8+ months.
Of course, we haven't even seen pictures of the new roller yet, and I could have sworn that the picture he sent me of the new project car is identical to the old project car he says he sold, so...
07-07-07, 09:51 PM
#65
Here's one of my posts from V8rx7forum.com on corner weights, just to add another data point.
---
I was unimpressed with the last alignment I had done on the car, so after finally getting things rolling again I took it down to a local race shop that does a lot of alignments for SCCA race cars.
What a difference! The car is far more predictable and stable over different kinds of pavement, and turns in with much more confidence than before.
I also had the car corner balanced. Here's the data and specs. My setup is primarily for street with lapping days in mind.
New alignment:
Front: -1.5* camber, 0.06* (1/16") toe in
Rear: -0.5* camber, 0 toe
The corner balance was very interesting. This was done with ballast for me (170 lbs.) so the weights include that, the rollbar, the spare and jack, 5/8 tank of gas, a fire extinguisher, harnesses, iPod, and a video camera mount. With out me in the trim above the car weighs 2939 lbs. If I were to set it up for timed laps I could probably lose about 50-100 lbs. just by taking out the wheel, jack, and extra fuel.
BEFORE:
857 693
758 797
Cross: 46.8%
AFTER:
811 742
806 750
L/R: 52.0%
F/B: 50.1%
Cross: 49.8%
The main point being that the car has nearly a perfect 50/50 distribution, and the cross weight is also almost right on 50%. Cross weight is the one most felt by the driver when the car is transitioning left to right.
For the record, I run 615 lb/in springs up front and 559 lb/in in the rear. Softer cars will not see as dramatic an improvement from corner balancing, and stiffer ones will benefit more so.
-ch
---
I was unimpressed with the last alignment I had done on the car, so after finally getting things rolling again I took it down to a local race shop that does a lot of alignments for SCCA race cars.
What a difference! The car is far more predictable and stable over different kinds of pavement, and turns in with much more confidence than before.
I also had the car corner balanced. Here's the data and specs. My setup is primarily for street with lapping days in mind.
New alignment:
Front: -1.5* camber, 0.06* (1/16") toe in
Rear: -0.5* camber, 0 toe
The corner balance was very interesting. This was done with ballast for me (170 lbs.) so the weights include that, the rollbar, the spare and jack, 5/8 tank of gas, a fire extinguisher, harnesses, iPod, and a video camera mount. With out me in the trim above the car weighs 2939 lbs. If I were to set it up for timed laps I could probably lose about 50-100 lbs. just by taking out the wheel, jack, and extra fuel.
BEFORE:
857 693
758 797
Cross: 46.8%
AFTER:
811 742
806 750
L/R: 52.0%
F/B: 50.1%
Cross: 49.8%
The main point being that the car has nearly a perfect 50/50 distribution, and the cross weight is also almost right on 50%. Cross weight is the one most felt by the driver when the car is transitioning left to right.
For the record, I run 615 lb/in springs up front and 559 lb/in in the rear. Softer cars will not see as dramatic an improvement from corner balancing, and stiffer ones will benefit more so.
-ch
08-06-07, 01:05 AM
#66
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