5.3 drift cam
06-25-15, 10:50 AM
#1
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5.3 drift cam
hi, i blew up my 13b and im getting a really good deal on a 5.3 this weekend. i plan on taking the engine home. my plans so far are the typhoon intake with 93mm throttle body and ls6 injectors. also the ls1 pulley drive and psi ls1511ml valves(beehive). i am stuck on the cam. i have researched for a while on multiple web sights, but they all seem to be for trucks and not for racecars so all the people want is low end torque. i know low end torque is good for drifting, but i want at least 350rwhp, but not have to deal with power coming on at 4,000rpm. as for now i plan on the ls6 cam and hoping it gets me the power i want, but i know their are much better cams out their. also the choppier the idle the better.
any info on which cam, better/cheaper intake setups, if i will need aftermarket pushrods and lifters, etc.. will be much appreciated!
thanks,
alex
any info on which cam, better/cheaper intake setups, if i will need aftermarket pushrods and lifters, etc.. will be much appreciated!
thanks,
alex
06-25-15, 01:46 PM
#2
Get a Howard's ASA cam. Mine make 400 WHP with a 5.7
And the GMPP ASA cam.Great power from 3000 to 6500 RPM. It is a cam made for circle track and roadcourse racing.
The ASA cam only needs upgraded valve springs as the lift is mild. Or you could go with a TR 224 or 228. Either will get you around 350WHP or more.
If you get a modern 5.3 you'll get even more power out of it as they have higher compression and better heads. You can get by on a stock throttle body, you don't need a 93mm unit at that power level.
If you are gonna really run the RPM high consider some upgraded rod bolts.
And the GMPP ASA cam.Great power from 3000 to 6500 RPM. It is a cam made for circle track and roadcourse racing.
The ASA cam only needs upgraded valve springs as the lift is mild. Or you could go with a TR 224 or 228. Either will get you around 350WHP or more.
If you get a modern 5.3 you'll get even more power out of it as they have higher compression and better heads. You can get by on a stock throttle body, you don't need a 93mm unit at that power level.
If you are gonna really run the RPM high consider some upgraded rod bolts.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; 06-25-15 at 01:50 PM.
06-25-15, 06:10 PM
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i think im going to settle for the 228r. how high can i rev the 5.3 with the stock heads and beehive valve springs. the springs i have ( psi ls1511ml ) will they manage the 228r? what modifications do i need to do to rev it to 6500-7000?
thanks
alex
thanks
alex
06-25-15, 09:54 PM
#4
Those springs will be fine for a 228r.
To rev past 6500 (you won't make any more power there with that cam) you'll want upgraded pushrods, upgraded trunion bearings, rod bolts, and an upgraded timing set. I'd put a new set of lifters in while you are there.
I'd do an improved racing oil pan baffle as well, and probably an accusump for good measure.
To rev past 6500 (you won't make any more power there with that cam) you'll want upgraded pushrods, upgraded trunion bearings, rod bolts, and an upgraded timing set. I'd put a new set of lifters in while you are there.
I'd do an improved racing oil pan baffle as well, and probably an accusump for good measure.
06-26-15, 08:42 PM
#6
No get the OEM FBODY pan, and get a improved racing baffle.
This is everything you need minus the upgraded baffle.
http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-pa...ody-p-378.html
Run one extra quart of oil in the pan and it should live just fine.
This is everything you need minus the upgraded baffle.
http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-pa...ody-p-378.html
Run one extra quart of oil in the pan and it should live just fine.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; 06-26-15 at 08:47 PM.
06-27-15, 03:50 AM
#7
My IR baffle didn't have the best hole placement (No matter what I did I had to wallow a few out) and there was definitely a nice coating of fine aluminum powder on it out of the box. That being said, the baffles work really damn well. Enjoy your future 30+ minute waiting for it all to drain from the pan.
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06-27-15, 09:53 AM
#8
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ok thanks, why the extra quart of oil? does the fbody oil pan hold one more quart of oil than the truck oil pan?
is the 228r a direct bolt up to, or do i need to move the sensor like if i ran the ls6 cam. one has the sensor at the front other at the back.
is the 228r a direct bolt up to, or do i need to move the sensor like if i ran the ls6 cam. one has the sensor at the front other at the back.
06-27-15, 02:28 PM
#9
Depends on what 5.3 you have. Where is your cam sensor now?
You'll need to run the appropriate cam gear, sensor and cover depending on the PCM you plan to run.
You will want to run an extra quart of oil to keep the pickup covered while drifting or racing. You can get into a situation where the oil is not draining back fast enough. There is plenty of room in the pan for an extra quart of oil.
You'll need to run the appropriate cam gear, sensor and cover depending on the PCM you plan to run.
You will want to run an extra quart of oil to keep the pickup covered while drifting or racing. You can get into a situation where the oil is not draining back fast enough. There is plenty of room in the pan for an extra quart of oil.
06-29-15, 05:48 PM
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also grannysspeedshop offers a mount that allows ps and one that doesn't, but companies like cxracing and hinson don't even ask. do cx and hinson mounts both allow ps? which company is best?
thanks
thanks
06-29-15, 06:19 PM
#12
Get the Ronin Speedworks LS FC mount kit. It is the best, simplest and lightest. It puts the engine furthest back and lowest. It allows the most exhaust clearance around the transmission mount and easiest access to the engine. Do not waste time messing around with any other mount kit.
You have the older style cam sensor. You can run any LS cam, and if it is an older style cam with a reluctor on the back it will drop right in and work. To use Gen 4 cams you will need an LS2 front timing cover and cam sensor, and the proper cam sproket to go with the ECU you plan to use. You will also need to extend the cam sensor wires or buy an extension harness.
I believe the 228R will drop into what you have with no other changes.
You have the older style cam sensor. You can run any LS cam, and if it is an older style cam with a reluctor on the back it will drop right in and work. To use Gen 4 cams you will need an LS2 front timing cover and cam sensor, and the proper cam sproket to go with the ECU you plan to use. You will also need to extend the cam sensor wires or buy an extension harness.
I believe the 228R will drop into what you have with no other changes.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; 06-29-15 at 06:59 PM.
06-29-15, 09:10 PM
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wow the kit looks really good, just gotta see if they will allow me to buy only the engine mounts. they all seem to come as a kit with the transmission mount. i plan to run the 350z transmission so the transmission mount will not be that useful
06-30-15, 06:04 PM
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yeah i plan on running the 350z transmission. they hold up good, and people have used them behind v8's with stock diff. i plan on running the turbo ii diff. my two transmission options are the 350z trans or the m22 muncie 4 speed. so either way my gearing will be difficult.
ill throw a vid below of a guy with a super charged 1uz with 350z trans behind.
with a short gear ratio m22 do you think i could use 3rd for drifts?
1st:2.20
2nd:1.64
3rd:1.38
4th:1.00
idk much about gear ratios so lmk any info about how the gearing would be. i still have intrest in the m22 b/c its my cheapest option and relay cheap to rebuild
ill throw a vid below of a guy with a super charged 1uz with 350z trans behind.
1st:2.20
2nd:1.64
3rd:1.38
4th:1.00
idk much about gear ratios so lmk any info about how the gearing would be. i still have intrest in the m22 b/c its my cheapest option and relay cheap to rebuild
06-30-15, 06:38 PM
#16
I would recommend going to a gearing calculator website and entering the required info (tire size, gear ratio's, diff ratio, and redline) and look at where each gear will peak (mph). I'm using the stock TII trans behind my LS1 because it's fairly strong, cheap, and the ratio's are OK. Not great, but alright. The problem you'll have with many single overdrive 6-speeds is that without a 3.73, 3.55, or even lower is that you'll have gears that only have ~20mph difference between them. Great on short track where that is exactly what you want, and/or with a car that has an extremely narrow power band (or high redline). Not great anywhere else.
IIRC, with the stock TII diff (4.10), 6500rpm redline, and a 1.00 4th (like the m22), you'll looking at ~120mph top speed (again, IIRC, the gearing calculator website will let you know for sure), is that enough? The flip side is that you'll likely be able to do a burn out in any gear.
IIRC, with the stock TII diff (4.10), 6500rpm redline, and a 1.00 4th (like the m22), you'll looking at ~120mph top speed (again, IIRC, the gearing calculator website will let you know for sure), is that enough? The flip side is that you'll likely be able to do a burn out in any gear.
06-30-15, 10:22 PM
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i have a spare turbo ii trans, how did you connect them? i have looked before on how to but didnt get any thing. would you recommend the turbo ii trans or m22?
07-01-15, 02:56 PM
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the fastest drifting i plan to do in the car is at lone star drift in texas which is 3rd to 4th gear drift entries max. so i think the m22 wouldn't be that bad as i never drive the car on the street and don't road race.
