Time Slips and Dyno Section is for posting 1/4 mile time slips and dyno graphs

6 port turbo first timer

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Nov 3, 2012 | 12:07 AM
  #1  
driftxsequence's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotisserie Engine
Tenured Member: 15 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,942
Likes: 104
From: Wilmington, DE
6 port turbo first timer

S4 6 port turbo
hybrid S4 turbo
megasquirt
ID 1000 injectors
Full racing beat exhaust
synapse BOV

This was my 3rd run ever down the strip, first two were slower than this. somehow this was faster than any other run later in the night as well! My intake temps were up to 170*F I was nervous but it didnt give me any issues for all 9 passes.

I'd like to upload my log of a run and have someone look over it if they are interested!

Right lane

Reply
Old Nov 3, 2012 | 12:45 AM
  #2  
driftxsequence's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotisserie Engine
Tenured Member: 15 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,942
Likes: 104
From: Wilmington, DE
oops forgot to mention 15 psi.

modified TMIC
Reply
Old Nov 5, 2012 | 12:16 PM
  #3  
AGreen's Avatar
Trunk Ornament
Tenured Member: 15 Years
iTrader: (11)
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,054
Likes: 2
From: Goose Creek, SC
You can definitely get better results than that with a high compression 6 port turbo. (You might need to turn the boost down some too!) Did you buy the full version of Tuner Studio? If you put together a decent AFR map, it tunes the fuel map (VE map) for you, and it does a DAMN good job too. MIDNFauciUSN and I both use it (I'm sure others do as well) and we both agree it's probably the best $50 spent so far. I'm a non-believer in butt dyno results, but when it's "fast" before, then you can't hold your head off the seat afterwards, I'd call those results. A datalog of before and after show much better AFR's throughout the RPM range, which is something I was having trouble trying to pin down through the process of doing datalog runs followed by a subsequent bench tune.

Edit:
Holy CRAP! IAT of 170*!!! You definitely need to turn the boost down before you blow that ************ up!
Reply
Old Nov 5, 2012 | 07:20 PM
  #4  
driftxsequence's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotisserie Engine
Tenured Member: 15 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,942
Likes: 104
From: Wilmington, DE
what do you think is safe? 10psi? I am getting water injection shortly, and thinking of going vmount...undecided on that though...
Reply
Old Nov 5, 2012 | 10:12 PM
  #5  
AGreen's Avatar
Trunk Ornament
Tenured Member: 15 Years
iTrader: (11)
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,054
Likes: 2
From: Goose Creek, SC
I think 10's a good safe output for the stock turbo. IIRC, anything past 12psi, the stock turbo just pumps a bunch of heat and won't flow more volume.



Trust me on TunerStudio, it will be worth it!
Reply
Old Nov 6, 2012 | 08:50 AM
  #6  
driftxsequence's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotisserie Engine
Tenured Member: 15 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,942
Likes: 104
From: Wilmington, DE
I purchased it last night, I'm gonna try and take it for a drive sometime tonight and see how the tuning goes. What do I need to modify to get things in the right areas? By that I mean what do I need to do so the computer knows what to do. Do I just modify the AFR table? or other things as well?

Also, I dont think I can lower the boost....I have it hooked up straight to the wastegate currently and that I see hold around 5psi if I give it partial throttle, If I go WOT it goes up to 15. I dont think a MBC will be able to lower it?? I hope I could add water injection for the time being until I can take off the turbo again and port the wastegate some more.
Reply
Old Nov 6, 2012 | 01:43 PM
  #7  
AGreen's Avatar
Trunk Ornament
Tenured Member: 15 Years
iTrader: (11)
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,054
Likes: 2
From: Goose Creek, SC
It's called boost creep, and it's deadly. It happens when the wastegate is fully open, but not enough exhaust can be bypassed through the tiny wastegate port, so the exhaust finds it easier to escape through the turbine, thus continuing to spool the turbo up with the wastegate fully open.

FC3S Pro v2.0: Mods - Wastegate porting

You don't even need to pull the turbo off to do so. I bought a carbide burr from northern tool to port mine, and it won't creep past the wastegate setting.

Under the tabs on the dash display, the last tab is "VE analyze live! - Tune for you". Go to that one, and it should ask you questions about the size of the engine, injectors, etc. Input the information, guess about what power you're making (I said around 250HP and 250Tq, not sure how accurate that was, but why not), and it should create an AFR table for you. Modify it to your needs, then hit the auto tune button and take a drive.
Reply
Old Nov 6, 2012 | 02:59 PM
  #8  
driftxsequence's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotisserie Engine
Tenured Member: 15 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,942
Likes: 104
From: Wilmington, DE
I already ported the wastegate. Is it still boost creep if it levels out at 15psi? It doesnt go any higher than that

I had a washer welded onto the stock wastegate plunger and ground out as far as I could go. I guess it wasnt big enough (28mm)
Reply
Old Nov 6, 2012 | 03:45 PM
  #9  
MIDNFauciUSN's Avatar
Roll FIS green
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,738
Likes: 14
From: Jax, FL
Originally Posted by AGreen
You can definitely get better results than that with a high compression 6 port turbo. (You might need to turn the boost down some too!) Did you buy the full version of Tuner Studio? If you put together a decent AFR map, it tunes the fuel map (VE map) for you, and it does a DAMN good job too. MIDNFauciUSN and I both use it (I'm sure others do as well) and we both agree it's probably the best $50 spent so far. I'm a non-believer in butt dyno results, but when it's "fast" before, then you can't hold your head off the seat afterwards, I'd call those results. A datalog of before and after show much better AFR's throughout the RPM range, which is something I was having trouble trying to pin down through the process of doing datalog runs followed by a subsequent bench tune.

Edit:
Holy CRAP! IAT of 170*!!! You definitely need to turn the boost down before you blow that ************ up!
Originally Posted by driftxsequence
I purchased it last night, I'm gonna try and take it for a drive sometime tonight and see how the tuning goes. What do I need to modify to get things in the right areas? By that I mean what do I need to do so the computer knows what to do. Do I just modify the AFR table? or other things as well?

Also, I dont think I can lower the boost....I have it hooked up straight to the wastegate currently and that I see hold around 5psi if I give it partial throttle, If I go WOT it goes up to 15. I dont think a MBC will be able to lower it?? I hope I could add water injection for the time being until I can take off the turbo again and port the wastegate some more.

If your intake temps are at 170, I'd imagine you need an aftermarket wastegate, or some kind of alcohol injection.... or a different intercooler.

How is the intake piping routed? Where is the filter? If you're running a TMIC, is the ducting on the hood there (the collapsible rubber or foam stuff)?

You're correct in saying that an MBC wont be able to lower your boost levels... they just keep the wastegate from opening.

To use VE Analyze Live, you need a solid ignition map, and AFR map... the rest seems to be done for you by the computer. Like AGreen said... best 50 bucks ever spent!
Reply
Old Nov 6, 2012 | 08:15 PM
  #10  
driftxsequence's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotisserie Engine
Tenured Member: 15 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,942
Likes: 104
From: Wilmington, DE
MIDNFauciUSN, vmount is coming soon as well as water injection, stick intake piping track, though it is 2.5 inch instead of 2inch. filter is in the common stock box area. The rubber around the hood duct is there as well.

I can post up my MSQ if you guys wanna take a look. I actually just went out with the car and it pulled some fuel in the cruise map and added a bit way up top, it pulls harder! I cant imagine what it'll do once I can get the intake temps under control....That was well worth the 50$!
Reply
Old Nov 6, 2012 | 09:55 PM
  #11  
AGreen's Avatar
Trunk Ornament
Tenured Member: 15 Years
iTrader: (11)
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,054
Likes: 2
From: Goose Creek, SC
You may need to temporarily add a minor exhaust restriction to keep boost creep down.

I flogged my car on my way back home from Jacksonville (about a 45 minute drive) just a couple days ago and never got intake temperatures above 87 degrees. I don't remember what the ambient temp was, but it has to be hotter than Oct/Nov in Delaware.

The exhaust restrictor is essentially a plate that you bolt between exhaust flanges that either has a bunch of holes drilled in it, or one large-ish hole. I'd do the swiss-cheese method, since you can always unbolt it and add more holes if it feels too restrictive. What you're hoping to get is to restrict just enough exhaust flow to keep boost levels down to a safe level, but not too much to where it does the job too well and limits your power. I have a feeling you can make more power if you slightly restrict your exhaust and lower the boost down to about 10.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
hotshot2014
New Member RX-7 Technical
8
Jul 18, 2017 02:30 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:16 AM.