337HP 321TQ 94' w/ Bolt Ons
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337HP 321TQ 94' w/ Bolt Ons
Car is a 1994 RX7. Car is all stock besides Tri-Point Engineering Air box, Tri-Point Engineering 3'' No-Cat Downpipe, Tri-Point Engineering 3'' High Flow Main cat, Greddy Muffler, Denso Fuel Pump with Hardwire, AEM Series II Standalone, Stock boost solenoids and plumbing routing with Tri-Point Engineering Boost Y-adapter. Car made 337hp and 321tq @15.5psi of boost. Stock sequentials, Stock injectors, Stock intercooler, no porting. All stock besides full intake and exhaust and tune. Car is tuned AlphaN, TPS Target based boost control, 2 Step Rev Limiter. The big downside to this setup is the intercooler. Heatsoak happens really quickly. By the 3rd or 4th dyno pull I am down almost 25hp. Next modification will be an intercooler.
EB Turbo
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...74/94337hp.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...37hpengine.jpg
EB Turbo
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...74/94337hp.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...37hpengine.jpg
#3
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Car is a 1994 RX7. Car is all stock besides Tri-Point Engineering Air box, Tri-Point Engineering 3'' No-Cat Downpipe, Tri-Point Engineering 3'' High Flow Main cat, Greddy Muffler, Denso Fuel Pump with Hardwire, AEM Series II Standalone, Stock boost solenoids and plumbing routing with Tri-Point Engineering Boost Y-adapter. Car made 337hp and 321tq @15.5psi of boost. Stock sequentials, Stock injectors, Stock intercooler, no porting. All stock besides full intake and exhaust and tune. Car is tuned AlphaN, TPS Target based boost control, 2 Step Rev Limiter. The big downside to this setup is the intercooler. Heatsoak happens really quickly. By the 3rd or 4th dyno pull I am down almost 25hp. Next modification will be an intercooler.
EB Turbo
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...74/94337hp.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...37hpengine.jpg
EB Turbo
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...74/94337hp.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...37hpengine.jpg
#6
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I was unaware they made the AEM Series II for the FD... do you have any more info on this? Plug and play with the stock FD harness or did you use a universal version with a custom harness? I am currently looking into switching ECU's and the Series II looks like a nice option.
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I was unaware they made the AEM Series II for the FD... do you have any more info on this? Plug and play with the stock FD harness or did you use a universal version with a custom harness? I am currently looking into switching ECU's and the Series II looks like a nice option.
EB Turbo
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#12
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Stock injectors running at 80% duty cycle at 15.5 PSI?
Sorry but I find that hard to believe...
337 is a nice number but that is whatever the dyno is estimating flywheel/crank HP according to image you posted. I wonder what they are using for a conversion factor. Not that it matters. So long as it is well tuned and you are happy with the car's performance.
Last edited by gracer7-rx7; 06-15-12 at 08:18 PM.
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Stock injectors running at 80% duty cycle at 15.5 PSI?
Sorry but I find that hard to believe...
337 is a nice number but that is whatever the dyno is estimating flywheel/crank HP according to image you posted. I wonder what they are using for a conversion factor. Not that it matters. So long as it is well tuned and you are happy with the car's performance.
Sorry but I find that hard to believe...
337 is a nice number but that is whatever the dyno is estimating flywheel/crank HP according to image you posted. I wonder what they are using for a conversion factor. Not that it matters. So long as it is well tuned and you are happy with the car's performance.
Power and torque curves are relative to manifold pressure. Boost tapers off a little after 6k rpm that's why it doesn't make peak power higher. It's gonna go back on the dyno next week for some datalogs I will post boost curve then. I did another one that made 331whp the (post is below, end of last year) peak power was @6400 rpm.
EB Turbo
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15psi and stock injectors!?!? What Air/fuel are you running?
If you're tuning for safe AFR's you'll max out 4x850's at 14psi, let alone stock 2x850's 2x550's running 15psi.
Also, upgrade your intercooler or you're going to blow the engine. Max pressure you should run through that intercooler is 12psi, and that isn't even safe.
Congrats on the numbers, but you're driving a ticking time bomb.
If you're tuning for safe AFR's you'll max out 4x850's at 14psi, let alone stock 2x850's 2x550's running 15psi.
Also, upgrade your intercooler or you're going to blow the engine. Max pressure you should run through that intercooler is 12psi, and that isn't even safe.
Congrats on the numbers, but you're driving a ticking time bomb.
#16
needs more track time
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No need to show me. It's not my car so I don't really care, no offense.
I'm not trying to be argumentative. I have seen many dyno plots and been at many dyno tuning events over the last 10 years and have never seen stock 550/850 injectors safely support much more than 12 psi.
Take the logs for yourself to make sure you truly are running appropriate AFRs for the boost you are running. Also get the AFR plot from the dyno that you are tuning on and make sure the wideband O2 sensor being used is in proper working condition. You should be getting readings before the cat - you probably know this.
The HP and torque number is irrelevant in the grand scheme of things. The AFRs, fuel pressure, duty cycle etc used the generate the numbers is the point of dyno tuning.
#17
Eh
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I have had several cars on the stock IC with a PFC keep the same IATs as singled cars running large FMICs playing around on the interstate or back roads as long as the speed of the car stays up around 40mph or so. You do see the factory IC cars IATs rise a little faster during the pulls but with a minute of just cruising the temps come back down.
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No need to show me. It's not my car so I don't really care, no offense.
I'm not trying to be argumentative. I have seen many dyno plots and been at many dyno tuning events over the last 10 years and have never seen stock 550/850 injectors safely support much more than 12 psi.
Take the logs for yourself to make sure you truly are running appropriate AFRs for the boost you are running. Also get the AFR plot from the dyno that you are tuning on and make sure the wideband O2 sensor being used is in proper working condition. You should be getting readings before the cat - you probably know this.
The HP and torque number is irrelevant in the grand scheme of things. The AFRs, fuel pressure, duty cycle etc used the generate the numbers is the point of dyno tuning.
I'm not trying to be argumentative. I have seen many dyno plots and been at many dyno tuning events over the last 10 years and have never seen stock 550/850 injectors safely support much more than 12 psi.
Take the logs for yourself to make sure you truly are running appropriate AFRs for the boost you are running. Also get the AFR plot from the dyno that you are tuning on and make sure the wideband O2 sensor being used is in proper working condition. You should be getting readings before the cat - you probably know this.
The HP and torque number is irrelevant in the grand scheme of things. The AFRs, fuel pressure, duty cycle etc used the generate the numbers is the point of dyno tuning.
15psi and stock injectors!?!? What Air/fuel are you running?
If you're tuning for safe AFR's you'll max out 4x850's at 14psi, let alone stock 2x850's 2x550's running 15psi.
Also, upgrade your intercooler or you're going to blow the engine. Max pressure you should run through that intercooler is 12psi, and that isn't even safe.
Congrats on the numbers, but you're driving a ticking time bomb.
If you're tuning for safe AFR's you'll max out 4x850's at 14psi, let alone stock 2x850's 2x550's running 15psi.
Also, upgrade your intercooler or you're going to blow the engine. Max pressure you should run through that intercooler is 12psi, and that isn't even safe.
Congrats on the numbers, but you're driving a ticking time bomb.
You would be surprised how effecient the stock IC is with all the proper ducting as long as the car is running at 40mph or faster. Once you stop for a couple mins or shut the car off for a 5-10mins that is when the stock IC shows its weakness and gets heat soaked and struggles to recover unless you get it back up to highway speeds and stay out of the throttle for a good 10-15 mins.
I have had several cars on the stock IC with a PFC keep the same IATs as singled cars running large FMICs playing around on the interstate or back roads as long as the speed of the car stays up around 40mph or so. You do see the factory IC cars IATs rise a little faster during the pulls but with a minute of just cruising the temps come back down.
I have had several cars on the stock IC with a PFC keep the same IATs as singled cars running large FMICs playing around on the interstate or back roads as long as the speed of the car stays up around 40mph or so. You do see the factory IC cars IATs rise a little faster during the pulls but with a minute of just cruising the temps come back down.
EB Turbo
#19
needs more track time
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I tuned this car myself. I don't know why everyone is saying this cant be done. I have tuned a couple of cars with this similar configuration with great success. No offense to you but what you have seen has nothing to do with what is possible. Not all ECUs are created equal. Some can do way more than others. The AEM has a lot of control over the staged injection.
EB Turbo
EB Turbo
Fair enough. Not many people have been able to make the AEM work on the FD hence the comments.
#20
needs more track time
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Power and torque curves are relative to manifold pressure. Boost tapers off a little after 6k rpm that's why it doesn't make peak power higher. It's gonna go back on the dyno next week for some datalogs I will post boost curve then. I did another one that made 331whp the (post is below, end of last year) peak power was @6400 rpm.
EB Turbo
By the way, if you are seeing high RPM drops in power, unbolt the front of the cat and shine a light in there to check the state of your cat. The front of the cat sometimes melts and winds up looking like a hair clogged shower drain. If you see a nice honeycomb structure, then it's usually still good.
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By the way, if you are seeing high RPM drops in power, unbolt the front of the cat and shine a light in there to check the state of your cat. The front of the cat sometimes melts and winds up looking like a hair clogged shower drain. If you see a nice honeycomb structure, then it's usually still good.
EB Turbo
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#24
Eh
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Just so you know, my car spikes 18psi and then holds 16psi until redline. Im not recommending everyone try this, its definitely on the edge. Unless you are running ALS or RA Superseals I wouldnt try it.