Wheel size
02-18-16, 02:18 PM
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Wheel size
I apologize for yet another wheel size thread but hey if I am ordering wheels I want to know they will fit before they get to my door. Now I have reviewed the sticky threads and consulted my tire/wheel shop.
My car:
1993 Rx7 FD
Fender: Non rolled nor pulled (I do not plan on doing either)
Use: Street
Brakes: Stock disc
Suspension: Koni yellows, unk springs (were on the car when I got it) may change to coilovers
In conclusion I'm going w/ Enkei RPF1
Sizes
Front: 18x9.5 +48
Rear: 18x10 +44
I understand I could possibly fit +45 up front and +38 in the rear, is this true on stock fenders? If so what would the advantage be? Is it to aggressive for street use?
My car:
1993 Rx7 FD
Fender: Non rolled nor pulled (I do not plan on doing either)
Use: Street
Brakes: Stock disc
Suspension: Koni yellows, unk springs (were on the car when I got it) may change to coilovers
In conclusion I'm going w/ Enkei RPF1
Sizes
Front: 18x9.5 +48
Rear: 18x10 +44
I understand I could possibly fit +45 up front and +38 in the rear, is this true on stock fenders? If so what would the advantage be? Is it to aggressive for street use?
02-18-16, 02:42 PM
#2
My car:
1993 Rx7 FD
Fender: Non rolled nor pulled (I do not plan on doing either)
Use: Street
Brakes: Stock disc
Suspension: Koni yellows, unk springs (were on the car when I got it) may change to coilovers
In conclusion I'm going w/ Enkei RPF1
Sizes
Front: 18x9.5 +48
Rear: 18x10 +44
1st-
I would not run a stagger fitment of only 1/2" nor different offsets front to rear.
I actually did this with my 1st set of wheels on my FC some 15 years ago.
1/2" wheel stagger isn't really enough to impact anything except you will be reluctant to rotate the skinnier wheel/tire to the rear (unless you start racing and figure out its faster).
If you want some more understeer or a certain look, I would step it up to a full 1" stagger at least. I prefer non stagger myself.
2nd-
you did not mention what size tires you want to run. This has a major impact on the offset wheel you can run since the offset is what centers the tire between the suspension and the fender lip.
----------
I understand I could possibly fit +45 up front and +38 in the rear, is this true on stock fenders? If so what would the advantage be? Is it to aggressive for street use?
The advantages to more aggressive offset is that it brings the outside edge of the wheel/tire closer to the fender for a more flush look and it is further from the stock offset of +50 so you have more "scrub radius". More scrub radius provides more positive return to center of the steering wheel and more resistance to turning, so it gives you more feedback/steering feel and easier drifting.
The dis-advantages to more aggressive offset is that it brings the outside edge of the wheel/tire closer tot the fender (so it has more chance of hitting fender/fender lip) and it is further from the stock offset of +50 so you have more "scrub radius" which also causes more pulling side to side under braking and over uneven surfaces.
-----------
You could do 265/35-18 on 18x10 +50 front and rear and with moderate camber up front (-1deg) it would clear stock fender lips.
For every 5mm less offset take 10mm off the width of the tire you can run. You can still run any width wheel you want.
This is a good site to help you figure it all out.
Online Wheel and Tyre Fitment Calculator. Offset, Tyre Stretch and Speedo Error | Will They Fit
1993 Rx7 FD
Fender: Non rolled nor pulled (I do not plan on doing either)
Use: Street
Brakes: Stock disc
Suspension: Koni yellows, unk springs (were on the car when I got it) may change to coilovers
In conclusion I'm going w/ Enkei RPF1
Sizes
Front: 18x9.5 +48
Rear: 18x10 +44
1st-
I would not run a stagger fitment of only 1/2" nor different offsets front to rear.
I actually did this with my 1st set of wheels on my FC some 15 years ago.
1/2" wheel stagger isn't really enough to impact anything except you will be reluctant to rotate the skinnier wheel/tire to the rear (unless you start racing and figure out its faster).
If you want some more understeer or a certain look, I would step it up to a full 1" stagger at least. I prefer non stagger myself.
2nd-
you did not mention what size tires you want to run. This has a major impact on the offset wheel you can run since the offset is what centers the tire between the suspension and the fender lip.
----------
I understand I could possibly fit +45 up front and +38 in the rear, is this true on stock fenders? If so what would the advantage be? Is it to aggressive for street use?
The advantages to more aggressive offset is that it brings the outside edge of the wheel/tire closer to the fender for a more flush look and it is further from the stock offset of +50 so you have more "scrub radius". More scrub radius provides more positive return to center of the steering wheel and more resistance to turning, so it gives you more feedback/steering feel and easier drifting.
The dis-advantages to more aggressive offset is that it brings the outside edge of the wheel/tire closer tot the fender (so it has more chance of hitting fender/fender lip) and it is further from the stock offset of +50 so you have more "scrub radius" which also causes more pulling side to side under braking and over uneven surfaces.
-----------
You could do 265/35-18 on 18x10 +50 front and rear and with moderate camber up front (-1deg) it would clear stock fender lips.
For every 5mm less offset take 10mm off the width of the tire you can run. You can still run any width wheel you want.
This is a good site to help you figure it all out.
Online Wheel and Tyre Fitment Calculator. Offset, Tyre Stretch and Speedo Error | Will They Fit
02-18-16, 02:46 PM
#3
You could do 265/35-18 on 18x10 +50 front and rear and with moderate camber up front (-1deg) it would clear stock fender lips.
Actually, I don't have enough experience with the stock shocks/springs to know that you can run this fitment and not foul the suspension on the inboard side.
It would however fit stock fenders with coilovers.
Actually, I don't have enough experience with the stock shocks/springs to know that you can run this fitment and not foul the suspension on the inboard side.
It would however fit stock fenders with coilovers.
02-18-16, 04:24 PM
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So maybe I should move down to 18x9 up front? I've heard of people having good success w/ 18x10 in the rear and I prefer a staggered set up (atleast that's what I ran on my mustang)
As for tire sizes, I plan on working w/ my tire shop on getting right balance and will reference the sticky threads along the way, but I guess I want to take it step by step and make sure I have the right wheel sizes before I think about tire sizes.
So in conclusion maybe a set up like
18x9 +45
18x10 +44
or
18x9 + 37
18x10 +35
I know one being more aggressive than other, but in honesty I am by no means a professional and may not feel or know the difference when driving the car. My number one concern is having a clean look (not a "stanced out//hella flush" look) but also keeping the vehicle driveable and not deal w/ constant rubbing
As for tire sizes, I plan on working w/ my tire shop on getting right balance and will reference the sticky threads along the way, but I guess I want to take it step by step and make sure I have the right wheel sizes before I think about tire sizes.
So in conclusion maybe a set up like
18x9 +45
18x10 +44
or
18x9 + 37
18x10 +35
I know one being more aggressive than other, but in honesty I am by no means a professional and may not feel or know the difference when driving the car. My number one concern is having a clean look (not a "stanced out//hella flush" look) but also keeping the vehicle driveable and not deal w/ constant rubbing
02-28-16, 06:44 AM
#5
Senior Member
So maybe I should move down to 18x9 up front? I've heard of people having good success w/ 18x10 in the rear and I prefer a staggered set up (atleast that's what I ran on my mustang)
As for tire sizes, I plan on working w/ my tire shop on getting right balance and will reference the sticky threads along the way, but I guess I want to take it step by step and make sure I have the right wheel sizes before I think about tire sizes.
So in conclusion maybe a set up like
18x9 +45
18x10 +44
or
18x9 + 37
18x10 +35
I know one being more aggressive than other, but in honesty I am by no means a professional and may not feel or know the difference when driving the car. My number one concern is having a clean look (not a "stanced out//hella flush" look) but also keeping the vehicle driveable and not deal w/ constant rubbing
As for tire sizes, I plan on working w/ my tire shop on getting right balance and will reference the sticky threads along the way, but I guess I want to take it step by step and make sure I have the right wheel sizes before I think about tire sizes.
So in conclusion maybe a set up like
18x9 +45
18x10 +44
or
18x9 + 37
18x10 +35
I know one being more aggressive than other, but in honesty I am by no means a professional and may not feel or know the difference when driving the car. My number one concern is having a clean look (not a "stanced out//hella flush" look) but also keeping the vehicle driveable and not deal w/ constant rubbing
Objective facts: Unsprung mass hurts handling and ride quality, rotational mass hurts acceleration performance, wide tires on relatively light cars will never see operating temperatures anywhere near the ideal range for maximizing grip on the street, and will tramline more. And of course big wheels and tires cost more $$$.
Zero actual benefit and a lot of downsides to big wheels and tires on a street car.
If you don't want to roll fenders and don't want a "stanced out//hella flush" look, you might consider something like 17x8.5 or 17x9 +40 to +50 all around with 245/40-17 tires. If you want to stagger, maybe 17x8 and 17x9 with 225/45-17 fronts with 255/40-17 rears. If you must have rears wider than 255, you can stagger diameters as well. I went with 17x8.5 // 18x9.5 and 245/40-17 // 275/35-18 for my street setup because I thought I *needed* 275 rears for 500+ hp. Turns out 275 Pilot Super Sports never warm up on the street, though, so I have less rear grip than the 225 rears on my S2000!
IMO 18x9 F and 18x10 R is a bit ridiculous for a street FD as far as functionality goes. If you like the look, then go ahead, but it doesn't really sound like you do.
Last edited by ZDan; 02-28-16 at 07:28 AM.
02-28-16, 09:54 AM
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just a note on tire vs rim width.
since the 80's Mazda has offered a 205 tire on a 7" wheel, and then a 225 tire on an 8" wheel, so a 9" wheel would get a 245, and so on.
Mazda's resume is more impressive than mine, but my racing experience shows that, as a guideline, Mazda is correct. we have run a 225 tire on everything from a 7" wheel to a 9" wheel. the thing that makes it a guideline and not a rule is that a 225 tire varies in width depending on the brand, so a 225 toyo is about the same tread width as a 205 hoosier, for example.
Mazda, has a much longer list of credits than this one thing, but the Bridgestone Re-71 was designed for the FC, so they were doing their homework a long time ago.
since the 80's Mazda has offered a 205 tire on a 7" wheel, and then a 225 tire on an 8" wheel, so a 9" wheel would get a 245, and so on.
Mazda's resume is more impressive than mine, but my racing experience shows that, as a guideline, Mazda is correct. we have run a 225 tire on everything from a 7" wheel to a 9" wheel. the thing that makes it a guideline and not a rule is that a 225 tire varies in width depending on the brand, so a 225 toyo is about the same tread width as a 205 hoosier, for example.
Mazda, has a much longer list of credits than this one thing, but the Bridgestone Re-71 was designed for the FC, so they were doing their homework a long time ago.