fstfwd

iTrader: (1)

I'm just about to purchase a set of Tein Flex coilovers, and I wanted to make sure there isn't anything else I should replace in the stock suspension in the process. If I understand correctly, the set comes with upper pillowball mount (is that the same as the "upper strut mount" which I have heard I should be replaced?)... if that is the case, then I wouldn't need to buy that I guess.

I replaced most of the rear bushings about 6 months ago, and I have M2 toe-links and trailing arms. Haven't done anything to the front suspension.

So, anything else?

Thanks!

Steve

limbar85

iTrader: (21)

flex's do not have upper pillowball mounts....those would have to be bought extra (around 350 or so)

fstfwd

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm.. I'm reading in the description on TEIN, it says...

"Pillow ball upper mounts are included."?

http://www.tein.com/flexdamp.html

neofreak

they do include them.

I know, i have them on both my cars.

limbar85

iTrader: (21)

ic ic...my brother has flex's too but i didnt think those were considered "pillowball upper mounts". so yea.....i guess they do have them....but that arent camber adjustment ones.

neofreak

they are on the FC. no need to have camber adjustment in the pillow mount of a FD, since its already built in by the factory.

limbar85

iTrader: (21)

haha.....damn....i suck
i know this is stealing the thread....but his questions answered plenty already. but the camber adjustment pillowball upper mounts are stock on the fc's flex's?

neofreak

yes, that is what I said.

fstfwd

iTrader: (1)

awesome guys, thanks for clearing that up... now if I might be a pain...

was there anything else I should consider upgrading the process... some other bushing or something to do with the sway bar or steering... or, anything else you would want to do when upgrading your suspension... A, because the shocks are off the car, or B, because it would be bad to have a new, slightly higher performance part connected to a 13 yo car with 100+k miles on it.

Thanks!!!

WHIPSrx7

Don't know if you put it on yet...but I just finished my FLEX install about a week ago and it went very smoothly. You don't need to upgrade anything else. If you want to upgrade your sway bar at a later time, it won't be very hard at all. It's not like messing with the oil pan when you drop your subframe. If that makes sense. In order to get to the oil pan, you have to drop the subframe, so if you want to mess with the oil pan, etc. that would be the time to do it. When installing the coilovers, it's not like that. It's just as easy to get to (the sway bar) with the coilovers on/off the car. Very very easy to get to when you want to go aftermarket.

Craig

P.S. I love mine! And you don't need to re-use any of the stock rubber pieces. Good luck with the install, very easy.

fstfwd

iTrader: (1)

Awesome Craig... I haven't gotten them in yet... they should be arriving any day now. I can't wait!

WHIPSrx7

Just seeing if you got them or installed them yet...shoot me a PM if you run into any problems or if you just need some help. Good luck and I know you will love them!

Craig

fstfwd

iTrader: (1)

Hey Craig. I'm getting them installed on Saturday. I was talking it over with my mechanic and trying to get a feel for how the installation would go. To you recall having a hard time removing the stock suspension, or the need to remove some particular parts to get them in. Or is it basically, unbolt top and bottom of the old setup and pop the new ones in. I took the TEINs out of the box and they are allready to go basically.

Thanks!

Steve

WHIPSrx7

Steve,
This is a site that has awesome instructions: http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/s...tallation.html

You don't need any other tools than the ones on the first line. So if your mechanic starts to use any of those tools, he's doing something he doesn't need to be doing. You don't have to worry about the rubber washers...You won't be keeping ANYTHING from the stock shocks. So he won't be needing a spring compressor or anything either. Anyways, make sure you check for all of the torque specs that are necessary. They can be found at this web site:
http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/3rd_gen_manuals.htm

I forget which link I looked under, but it's easiest just to download before looking at all of the links found under your year. The links I'm talking about are under Parts Fiche. I can't remember which link; body a, body b, chassis, engine, or index the torque specs are under. It's one of the bodies or the chassis (obviously). Anyways, hope this helped you. And definitely let me know if you have any other questions. Install is very straight-forward. I had no prior experience with any part of the suspension and I did it all in my garage. Really should only take a few hours if at a real "car garage/shop". I hope it helped,

Craig

fstfwd

iTrader: (1)

Thanks craig, I'll let ya know how it goes...

onelife2stories

hey everyone, im limbar85's brother with the FD and flex. The flex installation is a piece of cake! not in my case though, haha. 3 corners went in and out really easy, but the front passengerside's lower bolt on the stock strut was a bitch, i spent forever on it. i finally got it out by heating the **** out of it with the cutting torch then beating it out. it was rusted solid.

performance wise, WOW its awesome, i guess i dont really have anything else to compare it to, but i feel like the stock suspension just flat out sux now.

fstfwd

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys... just thought I'd send ya the latest update. Got the suspension - that part went really smooth.

Not entirely thrilled with the ride though. I don't believe this is a flaw in the suspension, but more a matter of personal taste. At first I just didn't like it at all, but then Craig made some good suggestions as to how to dial in the rebound. FYI, make adjustments DOWN from the hardest setting... that helps - hehe. I've been running them at -6 F and -10R. That seems to be pretty great on most roads.

My biggest complaint is on the highway. At 80+, hitting 2in bumps in the road, just throws me straight up in the air. If I was drinking a bottle of water... I'd be soaked. granted, if I had the EDRC, I suppose I could tone down the front a bit, but I doubt that would make that much of a difference. The springs are just really stiff.

SO, I was thinking of doing what Craig did... and pick up some 6kgs. Put those on the rear and move the rear shocks to the front. TEIN said you could go +/- 2kg, without needing to revalve. Hopefully this will mellow things out a bit.

My next option is to ditch these and throw on something simpler, like Tokicos and Eibach Springs...

Icemastr

iTrader: (2)

I am not an expert on suspension but it sounds like you don't have enough shock travel and are hitting the bump stops rather than the springs being too stiff. You can try putting a zip tie on your spring and see how far the zip tie moves up when the spring compresses, if you have that big jump while driving again check the ziptie and see where it is at. You may need to increase your ride height and/or cut the bump stops down.

fstfwd

iTrader: (1)

Ice... thanks for the advice... I'll look into that. I can tell you that the shock is pretty stretched to the max... I kept the heigh pretty close to stock, and there is quite a bit of thread left. When I hit those bumps, i don't get a loud bang - sure it makes a bit of noise, but, it's more the sensation.

As far as your zip tie test goes... where exactly are you putting that... and it this something you check on a lift... or go for a drive and look at it after?

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

I hope you mean moving the rear SPRING to the front, not the whole shock.

I don't know how much you've ridden in suspension-modded RX7's, but to some extent, harsher ride is the price you pay to lower the car. Essentially, it HAS to be stiffer BECAUSE its lower... something has got to keep it off the ground.

FWIW, the spring rate affects this less than you might think. I had Koni/Eibach's, and I though the car rode like ****. It crashed down over ever bump/highway undulation. When I upgraded to ground control, same shocks, the car had much stiffer springs (500/400), and rode lower (25"), yet the ride was BETTER. The stiffer springs helped keep it from crashing over bumps.

It's never going to ride like stock, AND be lower... thems just the breaks. Just back the shocks all the way off on the street.

fstfwd

iTrader: (1)

I see what you are saying... but currently, the height of the car is 25.5" front and 26" rear. That's ground -> fender lip. So, it's almost exactly what i had stock. I don't want to make the car any lower... I'll never get it on a flat bed - hehe.

Yes, just the springs from the 8kg rear to the front, and the new 6kgs go on the rear. TEIN said fortunately, the springs are the same height on the FLEX's for our cars... so it can be done.

As for the actual result of changing the springs. I'd be going from (F/R) 560/440 -> 440/330. That should mellow it out a bit, one would hope. But, then again, I'm not an expert either - where's Howard Coleman when ya need him to chime in Heh

Icemastr

iTrader: (2)

Try placing the ziptie in the middle or near the top of the spring and drive the car then if your wheels have spaces in between you can see through them to see where the ziptie is at, if the ziptie gets all the way to the top of the spring your are hitting the bump stops. Cutting the bumpstops I think can give you a 1/2 inch or more extra suspension travel. My information could be off though since I have only been racing Miatas and only co-driven a prepped RX-7 a few times and planning to buy one next season or so. FWIW I have Tein Flex on my 99 Miata and the ride is barely stiffer with 2 clicks from the softest in front and 4 clicks from the softest in rear. In a lot of cases the ride is improved since the car doesn't dive or squat and shake as much as it did with the stock suspension. This is with 396/350lb springs and lowered 1.25" front and rear. An RX-7 I raced had 800lb springs front and 710lb rear and it used to have a problem hitting the bump stops and the owner cut the bump stops down and didn't have that problem when I raced it and it was fine going over big bumps in a parking lot at over 80MPH and this is with like 1in of suspension travel hehe.

afgmoto1978

iTrader: (6)

Ice, don't you mean the zip tie on the shock cylinder (Rod)?

afgmoto1978

iTrader: (6)

Fstfwd, it would be a really good idea to install an aftermarket swaybar system with uprated front swaybar mounts. That would also help on the bottoming issue, mainly due to the fact that the stiffer swaybar would force both sides to absorb the bump. If you upgrade the shocks you should always upgrade the swaybar system to get a proper balance.

fstfwd

iTrader: (1)

afg... thanks for the tip. I can't really say if I am bottoming out or not. There is still a significant amount of travel on the shock, as I did not lower it that dramatically... in fact, as I mentioned earlier, it's almost exactly at stock height. I'm not hearing any loud clunks or bangs when I hit bumps... I'm just feeling it.

I think I figured out what you mean about the zip tie test... if I put it around the rod... if the rod completely compresses... the zip tie will be at the top of the shock. Maybe I will give that a shot and see what's happening. Thanks.

S