Update on M2 Trailing/Toe links/Tein HA's.
#1
Photo Diety
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Update on M2 Trailing/Toe links/Tein HA's.
I've had several opportunities to head back to the drag strip with my rear upper shock mounts installed correctly, to test the effectiveness of the listed parts in regard to wheel hop. In short, the M2 stuff in combo with the HA's definitely work. I cannot say without the HA's however, as I installed everything at the same time. Undoubtedly, the higher rear spring rate helps with wheel hop but I've not had a problem with it at all with everything installed correctly.
I've run both street tires and drag radials (I guess those are street tires as well!) and even managed to knock .2 tenths off my best time with street tires. The drag radials were a different situation altogether, but the problems were unrelated to the toe/trailing links or shocks. Boost issues off the line :-(
I've run both street tires and drag radials (I guess those are street tires as well!) and even managed to knock .2 tenths off my best time with street tires. The drag radials were a different situation altogether, but the problems were unrelated to the toe/trailing links or shocks. Boost issues off the line :-(
#3
I've got Unobtanium bushings in the body side of the stock trailing links and M2 toe links with GAB super-Rs converted to adjustable coil-overs with 250 springs (soon to be 350, and used to be 450, all with the same behavior as far as I can tell). I still have the stock diff mount bushings, and they are quite old with 113K miles on them. I haven't done a lot of drag launches, but this setup gives me zero wheel hop where it used to hop madly whenever I lot traction under acceleration.
I think the body end (front) of the traling link is the most important bushing for wheel hop. M2 trailing links replace it with a heim joint, and the Unobtanium bushings stiffen it up considerably as well.
-Max
I think the body end (front) of the traling link is the most important bushing for wheel hop. M2 trailing links replace it with a heim joint, and the Unobtanium bushings stiffen it up considerably as well.
-Max
#4
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Cetchup,
The shop that installed the shocks (not a tuning shop) managed to install the stock OEM upper mounts incorrectly. Essentially it cause the entire shock/mount assembly to move as one piece (read no shock action!) and just thump against the top of the shock tower, sigh...
I set mine at 10 clicks from full soft. I seem to have 32 adjustment clicks not 16, so I'm 22 out from full hard. Seems pretty firm to me. I may try some additional settings. But the 10 f/r is what Tien recommended for the street as a starting point.
I've been pushing my new company, Velocity Images, Inc. pretty hard so I've been photographing more track day events than driving them. I really want to get this setup out on the track so I can start experimenting on a road course.
Oh, when I'm at the drag strip, I run full soft front, and 6 clicks from full soft on the rear.
Michel
The shop that installed the shocks (not a tuning shop) managed to install the stock OEM upper mounts incorrectly. Essentially it cause the entire shock/mount assembly to move as one piece (read no shock action!) and just thump against the top of the shock tower, sigh...
I set mine at 10 clicks from full soft. I seem to have 32 adjustment clicks not 16, so I'm 22 out from full hard. Seems pretty firm to me. I may try some additional settings. But the 10 f/r is what Tien recommended for the street as a starting point.
I've been pushing my new company, Velocity Images, Inc. pretty hard so I've been photographing more track day events than driving them. I really want to get this setup out on the track so I can start experimenting on a road course.
Oh, when I'm at the drag strip, I run full soft front, and 6 clicks from full soft on the rear.
Michel