twin master cylinder manual brake project underway
#28
Coleman Racing (funny) also has many hats available. You may also want to check out the DBA (Disk Brake of Australia). Precision Brakes company might already have what you need as well.
You may also find this interesting:
http://cncbrakes.com/cncbrakes.com-a...240&subseries=
Andrew
You may also find this interesting:
http://cncbrakes.com/cncbrakes.com-a...240&subseries=
Andrew
#29
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I've run the superlight's before and I will just offer a word of warning, do to the body of the calipers being soooo light (which it is) I ran into a few problems...nothing to bad but noticible, 1. they tended to heat soak very badly even with a pretty good amount of ducting 2. they flex alot.... I ended up having to run a larger master than i really wanted to in order to keep a pedal in the car at the end of a hard run...which meant when they were cold you really had work to get it to stop. In your app. I would still try them, just stuff to be aware of.
#30
Racing Rotary Since 1983
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
thanks i think...
just to be sure: Wilwood Forged Billet Superlite? WIL120-7432 you had problems?
i know the Superlite 2s were upgraded to the 3 and 4 model but the FSL is relatively new and highly touted. if you had the problems you describe w the FSLs i will look elsewhere. pls advise....
i talked w Coleman and they can make hats in 2 weeks. i will send them a rear rotor. i am going w 13 inch 36 vane 1.1 inch thick rotors. cost per hat is $243. i will go w Coleman rotors. $145 per.
i need to talk to tilton to finalize caliper piston size. the FSL offers 1.375, 1.5 and 1.75. 'probably the 1.375 as we are talking rear brakes.
Wilwood FSL is $145 which is a pretty good price. i was quoted $250 from another vendor.
thanks all for the help.
howard
just to be sure: Wilwood Forged Billet Superlite? WIL120-7432 you had problems?
i know the Superlite 2s were upgraded to the 3 and 4 model but the FSL is relatively new and highly touted. if you had the problems you describe w the FSLs i will look elsewhere. pls advise....
i talked w Coleman and they can make hats in 2 weeks. i will send them a rear rotor. i am going w 13 inch 36 vane 1.1 inch thick rotors. cost per hat is $243. i will go w Coleman rotors. $145 per.
i need to talk to tilton to finalize caliper piston size. the FSL offers 1.375, 1.5 and 1.75. 'probably the 1.375 as we are talking rear brakes.
Wilwood FSL is $145 which is a pretty good price. i was quoted $250 from another vendor.
thanks all for the help.
howard
#31
Racing Rotary Since 1983
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
RacingBrake can deliver a custom hat and rotor for the FD rear. i should get a price today and will post it... here's the drawings and a link to my post on their brake forum...
http://forums.racingbrake.com/viewto...e871021b8d7e43
http://forums.racingbrake.com/viewto...e871021b8d7e43
Last edited by DamonB; 12-10-06 at 09:30 AM.
#34
Racing Rotary Since 1983
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
RacingBrake is in NJ and after they came thru w a set of drawings i revisited their website (http://www.racingbrake.com/RX7_s/3213.htm) and discovered they list both front and rear 2 piece rotor assemblies (including aluminum hats) for the fd.!!
they offer some excellent engineering features on these items. the listed rotors are v close to OEM but offer the usual benefits of lighter weight, better heat conference etc. the usual stuff. in addition, they mount the rotor in the center of the hub flange which is a plus, they have an interesting vane configuration and do put a finish on the rotorface...
of course what interests me is a larger rotor.
howard coleman
they offer some excellent engineering features on these items. the listed rotors are v close to OEM but offer the usual benefits of lighter weight, better heat conference etc. the usual stuff. in addition, they mount the rotor in the center of the hub flange which is a plus, they have an interesting vane configuration and do put a finish on the rotorface...
of course what interests me is a larger rotor.
howard coleman
#35
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IIRC, the RZ rears are larger diameter, but NOT thicker... if the RB rears are 28mm thick, then I'm not sure they'd work w/ a stock or '99RZ caliper. Who's calipers are they supposed to fit?
EDIT:
Note their specs for "Oversize" rear rotors say they are 328mm x 28mm which is just under 13" x 1.1"... both dimentions BIGGER than an RZ rotor... then the english equivalent says 11.5" x .87", which is 93-95 OE size... not "oversize" at all.
I think the RZ's are 12 or 12.5 x .87"... in otherwords, bigger around, same thickness as stock.
EDIT:
Note their specs for "Oversize" rear rotors say they are 328mm x 28mm which is just under 13" x 1.1"... both dimentions BIGGER than an RZ rotor... then the english equivalent says 11.5" x .87", which is 93-95 OE size... not "oversize" at all.
I think the RZ's are 12 or 12.5 x .87"... in otherwords, bigger around, same thickness as stock.
Last edited by ptrhahn; 12-07-06 at 10:11 AM.
#36
Racing Rotary Since 1983
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Peter
you are correct as to the RZ rotors... BTW, RacingBrake offers a neat 2 piece floating disc rotor and hat assembly that allows usage of the stock RZ caliper.
if you read my thread you will understand that i am not using the stock rear calipers. the whole point of my project is to get more rear brakes into the car and to get in-cockpit bias adjustability thru a tilton balance bar.
i will be running Wilwood FSL 4 piston (1.375) cailpers.
i may use a Linelock as my emergency brake.
howard coleman
you are correct as to the RZ rotors... BTW, RacingBrake offers a neat 2 piece floating disc rotor and hat assembly that allows usage of the stock RZ caliper.
if you read my thread you will understand that i am not using the stock rear calipers. the whole point of my project is to get more rear brakes into the car and to get in-cockpit bias adjustability thru a tilton balance bar.
i will be running Wilwood FSL 4 piston (1.375) cailpers.
i may use a Linelock as my emergency brake.
howard coleman
#37
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Originally Posted by howard coleman
thanks i think...
just to be sure: Wilwood Forged Billet Superlite? WIL120-7432 you had problems?
i know the Superlite 2s were upgraded to the 3 and 4 model but the FSL is relatively new and highly touted. if you had the problems you describe w the FSLs i will look elsewhere. pls advise....
howard
just to be sure: Wilwood Forged Billet Superlite? WIL120-7432 you had problems?
i know the Superlite 2s were upgraded to the 3 and 4 model but the FSL is relatively new and highly touted. if you had the problems you describe w the FSLs i will look elsewhere. pls advise....
howard
#38
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (9)
I know you weren't Howard, I was just wondering... since the oversized rotor seemed to be a part they already sold... what they thought anyone was going to use it for before you came along.
It's also weird with the size listing discrepency.
I'd like to see if StopTech could just match piston sizes for me with one of their two-piston fixed calipers for the rear. They make an spot e-brake caliper as well.
It's also weird with the size listing discrepency.
I'd like to see if StopTech could just match piston sizes for me with one of their two-piston fixed calipers for the rear. They make an spot e-brake caliper as well.
Originally Posted by howard coleman
Peter
you are correct as to the RZ rotors... BTW, RacingBrake offers a neat 2 piece floating disc rotor and hat assembly that allows usage of the stock RZ caliper.
if you read my thread you will understand that i am not using the stock rear calipers. the whole point of my project is to get more rear brakes into the car and to get in-cockpit bias adjustability thru a tilton balance bar.
i will be running Wilwood FSL 4 piston (1.375) cailpers.
i may use a Linelock as my emergency brake.
howard coleman
you are correct as to the RZ rotors... BTW, RacingBrake offers a neat 2 piece floating disc rotor and hat assembly that allows usage of the stock RZ caliper.
if you read my thread you will understand that i am not using the stock rear calipers. the whole point of my project is to get more rear brakes into the car and to get in-cockpit bias adjustability thru a tilton balance bar.
i will be running Wilwood FSL 4 piston (1.375) cailpers.
i may use a Linelock as my emergency brake.
howard coleman
#39
Too cold in the garage
iTrader: (6)
Howard, I have been reading your thread and it reminded me to get back to my project that I started and couldn't finish because of my lack of knowledge and not fabricating skills. I could post pics of what I made but if you look at these two links you can see the pics and problems I ran into, not sure where I went wrong but I think it was the amount of leverage that I could apply. Here are the links hope this helps others like us....
http://www.torquecentral.com/showthr...t=Dual+masters
http://www.swapcartech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=430
Let me know if you can't see the pics, I will post if ypou would like to see.
http://www.torquecentral.com/showthr...t=Dual+masters
http://www.swapcartech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=430
Let me know if you can't see the pics, I will post if ypou would like to see.
#40
Racing Rotary Since 1983
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
paul,
thanks for the post and link to a very helpful thread. if i read the pictures properly i see your problem.
as you know the fd has a 4.1 to 1 pedal ratio. that, of course is not enough to power manual brakes. you need to design within your bracket a leverage multiplier so you get it up to 6 to 1.
otherwise, nice bracket. i will be fabbing mine out of 3/8 mild steel.
thanks again,
howard coleman
thanks for the post and link to a very helpful thread. if i read the pictures properly i see your problem.
as you know the fd has a 4.1 to 1 pedal ratio. that, of course is not enough to power manual brakes. you need to design within your bracket a leverage multiplier so you get it up to 6 to 1.
otherwise, nice bracket. i will be fabbing mine out of 3/8 mild steel.
thanks again,
howard coleman
#42
DragonFly
iTrader: (2)
anotehr great thread howard, I have a lot to work out with setting up my brake bias with the race car.
I have this setup on the FD I race now, I purchased it from Fritz (brad b's old track car).
I am currently having some issues with the entire braking system but am trying to work it out over the winter.
Originally Posted by limbar85
i was also recently searching for a dual master cylinder setup. i dont remember where i found this pic, but yeah.....maybe itll give u an idea
I am currently having some issues with the entire braking system but am trying to work it out over the winter.
#43
Racing Rotary Since 1983
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
after giving consideration to the bracket type you picture (above) i may not go w it. the primary feature of the bracket is force multiplication. the stock pedal is 4.1 to 1 and you need around 6.2 to 1. this multiplication increases the pedal stroke. it may be fine but i may head in another direction.
i may retain (wonder of wonders) the power (gasp) brake system and run an approximation of the 07 C6 ZO6 brakes. 14 inch front rotor. 13.375 rear. 6 piston front 4 piston rear. i will then have enough rear bias that a blow-off type proportioning valve will work.
once details firm up i will be happy to share.
howard coleman
i may retain (wonder of wonders) the power (gasp) brake system and run an approximation of the 07 C6 ZO6 brakes. 14 inch front rotor. 13.375 rear. 6 piston front 4 piston rear. i will then have enough rear bias that a blow-off type proportioning valve will work.
once details firm up i will be happy to share.
howard coleman
#44
DragonFly
iTrader: (2)
>>after giving consideration to the bracket type you picture (above) i may not go w it. the primary feature of the bracket is force multiplication. the stock pedal is 4.1 to 1 and you need around 6.2 to 1. this multiplication increases the pedal stroke. it may be fine but i may head in another direction.
hmm, yeah i need to study its construction further, but are yyou saying that from what you see, it is not provide enough force multiplication, thus a long pedal stroke?
btw, i do not like a long pedal, i want a very short pedal with modulation via foot pressure, not movement....but that is just the style I like.....and I have not been able to get my race car to where I want it yet in terms of that.
hmm, yeah i need to study its construction further, but are yyou saying that from what you see, it is not provide enough force multiplication, thus a long pedal stroke?
btw, i do not like a long pedal, i want a very short pedal with modulation via foot pressure, not movement....but that is just the style I like.....and I have not been able to get my race car to where I want it yet in terms of that.
#45
Racing Rotary Since 1983
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
in order to multiply the pedal ratio by approx 50% ( to make up for the lost pressure from the vacuum assist) the bracket increases pedal travel. as you, i don't like any pedal travel.
so this thread in now entitled:
Twin master cylinder manual brake project not underway....
it will be replaced by:
Gonzo Brake Project underway in due course.
howard coleman
so this thread in now entitled:
Twin master cylinder manual brake project not underway....
it will be replaced by:
Gonzo Brake Project underway in due course.
howard coleman
#47
Re-engineering everything
iTrader: (2)
Howard,
I'm following this with great interest. One of the nice things about the StopTech approach is that they have sized the pistons to the stock M/C (as I'm sure you know). Their setup with the 99 RS/RZ rears is really good, but I think everyone would love a fixed-caliper in the rear with a secondary spot mechanical. The big issue is that there aren't any calipers that have good piston sizes for the front, and the rears are even worse. Most 4-pot 'rear' calipers have about 2X the area of the OEM floating calipers.
(Line lockers aren't recommended for parking brakes as they bleed pressure over time--but a secondary M/C connected to the e-brake works great as a momentary function.)
I built a dual M/C setup with a friend for his 240Z. This was based on a Mosa Frein unit that used a linear teflon bushing instead of a pivot. Anyway, it's a trick setup but it's very finicky. We found that the bias was very sensitive and needed to be adjusted for each surface to get optimal results.
I'm wondering: would it be possible to adapt a more modern M/C setup (like the one on my STi) that performs electronic bias adjustment?
Anyway, keep us posted!
-ch
I'm following this with great interest. One of the nice things about the StopTech approach is that they have sized the pistons to the stock M/C (as I'm sure you know). Their setup with the 99 RS/RZ rears is really good, but I think everyone would love a fixed-caliper in the rear with a secondary spot mechanical. The big issue is that there aren't any calipers that have good piston sizes for the front, and the rears are even worse. Most 4-pot 'rear' calipers have about 2X the area of the OEM floating calipers.
(Line lockers aren't recommended for parking brakes as they bleed pressure over time--but a secondary M/C connected to the e-brake works great as a momentary function.)
I built a dual M/C setup with a friend for his 240Z. This was based on a Mosa Frein unit that used a linear teflon bushing instead of a pivot. Anyway, it's a trick setup but it's very finicky. We found that the bias was very sensitive and needed to be adjusted for each surface to get optimal results.
I'm wondering: would it be possible to adapt a more modern M/C setup (like the one on my STi) that performs electronic bias adjustment?
Anyway, keep us posted!
-ch
#48
Racing Rotary Since 1983
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
thanks for the interesting post hyperion.
yes, i figured a LineLock would eventually bleed down.
there really has to be some semi original work or sleuthing done as to the e brake. i am planning to run 14 and 13.375 rotors w a 6 piston front 4 piston rear that will move the bias just the proper amount to the rear so that it can be adjusted w a proportioning valve. since it will be a street track app i will fixture a mechanical e brake. maybe off the pinion nose. i would rather not add an additional caliper to the rotor for a number of reasons.
howard coleman
yes, i figured a LineLock would eventually bleed down.
there really has to be some semi original work or sleuthing done as to the e brake. i am planning to run 14 and 13.375 rotors w a 6 piston front 4 piston rear that will move the bias just the proper amount to the rear so that it can be adjusted w a proportioning valve. since it will be a street track app i will fixture a mechanical e brake. maybe off the pinion nose. i would rather not add an additional caliper to the rotor for a number of reasons.
howard coleman
#49
Custom or Nothing
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by howard coleman
maybe off the pinion nose.
howard coleman
howard coleman
I have thought of this solution also. The main problem is that the power plant frame does not leave much room for a disc of much diameter, if any. I will be needing a simaler brake system on my track car that I am building. If I come up with any ideas I will gladly share them.
Bandon
#50
Re-engineering everything
iTrader: (2)
Has anyone investigated the e-brake system used by Porsche, Subaru, and Mistubishi? The inside perimiter of the brake hat is used like a drum with shoes that engage when the handbrake is applied. A pure mechanical system. Since the offset of the wheels on the FD are so deep, I'm thinking that there could be room back there for such a system.
-ch
-ch