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Found another set of uprights in the mess, possibly 97/98 vintage, whereas the others would have been 95 or earlier. Oem bearing for sure, NSK 33BWK02C, so 2 out of 6.
Drove it up Angeles yesterday. Now the passenger side has gotten so bad that it ticks slightly while driving STRAIGHT t at slow speeds LOL.
Drivers side is getting worse slowly also. I know everybody has given their .02 but figured Id share the situation.
Plan for now: Since both my front rims are pretty bent up, I am thinking this could be harming the hub somehow. Looking to buy either the same 18x9.5 +45 or buy some FEED fenders to squeeze in 18x10 +38s so I can run 285's.
I am also still looking for a used good condition spindle to eliminate that as well.
Wanted to update this thread.
Unfortunately, my ticking issue has continued. I have thrown so much money and time into solving this that its become completely comic.
Months ago, I changed my tie rods, bearings (again) and alignment. An idea came that perhaps my extreme front end alignemnt was the culprit however it is not. People also believed, or didnt believe that I and various other shops were installing the hub/bearing assembly correctly. That wasnt it. I also purchased new RPF1's for the front since my previous ones were pretty beat up from track duty. I thought maybe the bends were putting an extra load on the bearing, but that made no difference as well. Recently I decided to chase my ball joints and a-arm bushings. When the wheel is in full lock, slowly moving forward you can feel the metallic "pop" or click while touching the brakes and upper a arm. I did not have a fender liner so we just stuck our hand through while the car was inching forward full lock. I couldn't touch the bottom a-arm. The noise is certainly coming from the spindle/ball-joint/suspension area. Long story short, I changed the upper a-arm w/ a DORMAN piece and powerflex bushings yet the tick returned after 1 canyon drive. Regardless if I apply brake pressure while turning, the **** clicks loudly at high speed during load or when making u-turns.
I did want to share some info on these dorman a-arms. Reason I bought was because the OEM pieces are silly expensive and I didnt want to spend a lot chasing this issue when this Chinese unit would serve its purpose to rule out another source. The ball joint is chinese but seemed alright for the cost. The pillowballs were complete junk. I attached photos of the dorman pillowballs just to share. If you are to buy these replica chinese a-arms I strongly recommend installing urethane bushings. Built2Apex seems to in works of producing a billet replacement. I may entertain that in the future depending on the cost.
Next on my list:
- Swap spindles
- Lower a-arm
- Rebuild coilovers
- ?
DORMAN ball joint upper a-arm pressed out and exposed
Last edited by ArmenMAxx; Sep 26, 2018 at 08:36 PM.
Illl def look the thrust sheets and torrington bearings. There nothing to lose in adding those. Its hard to tell if the noise is coming from the springs or not
Since changing my upper a-arm, I will say that the noise is slower to return. I can hear it faintly, worse on certain days. Before, a single canyon drive would bring it back to max volume.
Valkery(sp?) on here mentioned he got a ticking wheel bearing some time back after a new hub swap. Did you ever try that secondhand oem item someone offered?
Before you swapped uprights/spindles, I'd set them up between centres on a lathe and sweep with a dial test indicator, they're already centre-drilled and it's 5 minute job. Doubt it's an issue really, would be hard to install the hub if bent - if the nut was loose, maybe it could spin on the spindle and reduce the 33mm OD of the spindle, but bet the handling would be fairly dire before it got to that stage!
