Tein Ha can i remove the helper spring
07-27-10, 09:42 PM
#1
Tein Ha can i remove the helper spring
Ok so i came across some Tein Ha and was replacing my older Tein basic (requires rebulid)
1)My question is can i remove the helper spring on the tein ha to lower my car another inch?
2)Will i suffer any integrity issue by removing the helper spring?
Reason because my tein basic came with full treaded tube and the tein ha did not.So i cannot lower as low as my basic and looks almost like stock height.
It is a FD
Also since the tein ha springs look thinner and shorter (2inch) without the helper spring. Can i use my beefier spring from my basics?
1)My question is can i remove the helper spring on the tein ha to lower my car another inch?
2)Will i suffer any integrity issue by removing the helper spring?
Reason because my tein basic came with full treaded tube and the tein ha did not.So i cannot lower as low as my basic and looks almost like stock height.
It is a FD
Also since the tein ha springs look thinner and shorter (2inch) without the helper spring. Can i use my beefier spring from my basics?
07-28-10, 02:32 AM
#3
LEOJAPAN1,
You can rent a spring compressor from Kragen. Compress the main spring so it doesn't push against the top of the shock. Then remove the bolt from the top of the shock. This will let you remove the top hat and remove the springs. If you decide on getting anything stiffer than the stock rates, be prepared for a significantly stiffer ride.
Per the laws of spring physics, shortening the total length of a spring will feel like an increase in spring rate. This is compounded by the fact that you're actually planning on removing the helper spring, which is made with a softer rate.
You're going to want to consider getting a front strut bar and replace the rear one with one that actually works, as the main springs alone will flex the chassis. You'll notice this when you find yourself having to enter driveways sideways, or when jacking up the car from any particular corner.
I have the Flexes on my FD, and they're good for cruising and drifting. But going much stiffer would just be ghetto. Girls already comment on how stiff the ride is (ahem, well, that too
), but seriously, going stiffer would be problematic and just too bouncy for the street.
You can rent a spring compressor from Kragen. Compress the main spring so it doesn't push against the top of the shock. Then remove the bolt from the top of the shock. This will let you remove the top hat and remove the springs. If you decide on getting anything stiffer than the stock rates, be prepared for a significantly stiffer ride.
Per the laws of spring physics, shortening the total length of a spring will feel like an increase in spring rate. This is compounded by the fact that you're actually planning on removing the helper spring, which is made with a softer rate.
You're going to want to consider getting a front strut bar and replace the rear one with one that actually works, as the main springs alone will flex the chassis. You'll notice this when you find yourself having to enter driveways sideways, or when jacking up the car from any particular corner.
I have the Flexes on my FD, and they're good for cruising and drifting. But going much stiffer would just be ghetto. Girls already comment on how stiff the ride is (ahem, well, that too
), but seriously, going stiffer would be problematic and just too bouncy for the street.
07-30-10, 12:56 PM
#5
Senior Member
08-02-10, 12:54 PM
#6
Track junkie
OK, first things first. Tender springs and helper springs look similar at first glance, but are indeed different animals.
Helper springs are very low rate and their job is simply to keep the main springs seated at full droop. When the car is at rest on the ground, helper springs are fully coilbound. These springs do nothing to affect the handling of the car.
Tender springs are higher rate springs used in conjunction with main springs to alter the spring rates. They generally don't result in a progressive net spring rate. They create a different spring rate when used in conjunction with main springs (there is a formula for this, but I don't have time to look it up at the moment). Once the tender springs coilbind (if they coilbind), you then end up with the rate of the main springs. Beware that this is not at intuitive (at least IMHO). Personally, I would say that unless you really have a clear idea of what you are trying to accomplish, and why you cannot do it with just main springs (no compound rates), then just stick with the main springs and perhaps helpers to keep them seated.
Helper springs are very low rate and their job is simply to keep the main springs seated at full droop. When the car is at rest on the ground, helper springs are fully coilbound. These springs do nothing to affect the handling of the car.
Tender springs are higher rate springs used in conjunction with main springs to alter the spring rates. They generally don't result in a progressive net spring rate. They create a different spring rate when used in conjunction with main springs (there is a formula for this, but I don't have time to look it up at the moment). Once the tender springs coilbind (if they coilbind), you then end up with the rate of the main springs. Beware that this is not at intuitive (at least IMHO). Personally, I would say that unless you really have a clear idea of what you are trying to accomplish, and why you cannot do it with just main springs (no compound rates), then just stick with the main springs and perhaps helpers to keep them seated.
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