rolled fenders
You can easily do a ghetto roll with a wood baseball bat (That's how I did my GXL and it didn't look too bad), or you can use a professional roller and have it come out really nice. If you use the heat gun and take your time, you can probably get a good roll without cracking the paint. Good luck getting a roll and a pull without a re-paint!
Good luck with not cracking the paint. I did my last FD's front fenders with a professional fender roller and heat gun. Had the paint so hot it would burn you if you touched it. Paint still cracked on me. I think the paint is just too old on Rx7's as I've witnessed this exact method work on newer cars.
Good luck with not cracking the paint. I did my last FD's front fenders with a professional fender roller and heat gun. Had the paint so hot it would burn you if you touched it. Paint still cracked on me. I think the paint is just too old on Rx7's as I've witnessed this exact method work on newer cars.
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Good luck with not cracking the paint. I did my last FD's front fenders with a professional fender roller and heat gun. Had the paint so hot it would burn you if you touched it. Paint still cracked on me. I think the paint is just too old on Rx7's as I've witnessed this exact method work on newer cars.
The ART of Fender Rolling!!!
The key to saving paint when rolling your fenders:
plot out the center of your fender and mark out how far forward & back you want the rolled lip to pertrude.
Paint conditioning. Hit your fenders with laquor thinner to remove contaminates. Then wax them (cold). Now Use a heat gun and warm the painted surface you will be rolling (warm to the touch, not hot) and wax again. Too much heat will dry the paint out and make it brittle. The warm wax will allow absorbtion of wax. Now spray the affected area down with silicone grease or silicone based wax.
Next step.
Proper tool prep. I am a big fan of using the nylon wheel fender rollers. You will want to warm the roller wheel by soaking it in hot water (no sense heating the paint and applying a cold wheel to a thermal difference (causing the paint to shrink from it's warm expanded state). You want the fender roller's wheel to be warmer than the painted surface.
NEXT!
Properly applying the tool to the painted surface. This part can be a little tricky, so it's better to have a friend help (this way both of you can learn). The trick is to keep both surfaces warm. The painted surface with the heat gun & the roller with a combination of almost boiling water soaks and heat gun exposure. (the water heats the whole wheel, the heat gun focus' intense heat to the surface). Now when the two surfaces come in contact, you need to keep them adequetly heated and lubricated with a silicone based grease or wax.
Next!!!
Time, technique & objective. This kinda goes back a few steps about tool selection. Even the nice expensive fender rollers are missing one MAJOR thing (A LONG CHEATER BAR) for leverage. the short throw of an off th shelf fender roller doesn't offer enough leverage to slowely/ precisely roll a fender lip. Grab up a long bar that will offer you a smooth linear application of force. One guy heats one guy gently applys pressure to the fender. Both monitor heat of contact surfaces.
Take long gentle swoops from the front to the rear of your plotted area (don't ratchet back and forth) the ratcheting causes rapid compression & decompression of the paints outer surface (cracking)
make sure your working area is adequetly lubricated. If done correctly long gentle swoops can be achieved easily.
1mm of outer movement at a time. Don't try to roll the whole fender at one time, you will regret it, and will learn from a mistake.
Beware of style lines!!!
Stile lines are harsh or sharp curves in a fender or quarter pannel
If you are rolling fenders on a squared off car (FC) you can cause style line suction (comes from stretching the metal out too far) the only way of preventing this is with the use of a metal wheel roller and to heat the pannle with a torch (so you can REALLY stretch the metal) but if you are trying to save the paint, stay at least 1.5" away from stile lines.
If you are worried about stile lines on a FD, the stile is in the curves. (there are no stile lines on a FD) so feel free to go crazy.
That's about it. Have fun, learn something, help a friend out with their fenders, share the learning experience.
Best of luck, hope this has helped you better understand the ART of fender rolling.
I need to make a YouTube video on the different ways to roll fenders that I use.
Or maybe I'll do a write up with pictures soon.
P.S. Please excuse any misspellings, I wrote this whole damn thing on my iPhone while waiting for a job interview.
plot out the center of your fender and mark out how far forward & back you want the rolled lip to pertrude.
Paint conditioning. Hit your fenders with laquor thinner to remove contaminates. Then wax them (cold). Now Use a heat gun and warm the painted surface you will be rolling (warm to the touch, not hot) and wax again. Too much heat will dry the paint out and make it brittle. The warm wax will allow absorbtion of wax. Now spray the affected area down with silicone grease or silicone based wax.
Next step.
Proper tool prep. I am a big fan of using the nylon wheel fender rollers. You will want to warm the roller wheel by soaking it in hot water (no sense heating the paint and applying a cold wheel to a thermal difference (causing the paint to shrink from it's warm expanded state). You want the fender roller's wheel to be warmer than the painted surface.
NEXT!
Properly applying the tool to the painted surface. This part can be a little tricky, so it's better to have a friend help (this way both of you can learn). The trick is to keep both surfaces warm. The painted surface with the heat gun & the roller with a combination of almost boiling water soaks and heat gun exposure. (the water heats the whole wheel, the heat gun focus' intense heat to the surface). Now when the two surfaces come in contact, you need to keep them adequetly heated and lubricated with a silicone based grease or wax.
Next!!!
Time, technique & objective. This kinda goes back a few steps about tool selection. Even the nice expensive fender rollers are missing one MAJOR thing (A LONG CHEATER BAR) for leverage. the short throw of an off th shelf fender roller doesn't offer enough leverage to slowely/ precisely roll a fender lip. Grab up a long bar that will offer you a smooth linear application of force. One guy heats one guy gently applys pressure to the fender. Both monitor heat of contact surfaces.
Take long gentle swoops from the front to the rear of your plotted area (don't ratchet back and forth) the ratcheting causes rapid compression & decompression of the paints outer surface (cracking)
make sure your working area is adequetly lubricated. If done correctly long gentle swoops can be achieved easily.
1mm of outer movement at a time. Don't try to roll the whole fender at one time, you will regret it, and will learn from a mistake.
Beware of style lines!!!
Stile lines are harsh or sharp curves in a fender or quarter pannel
If you are rolling fenders on a squared off car (FC) you can cause style line suction (comes from stretching the metal out too far) the only way of preventing this is with the use of a metal wheel roller and to heat the pannle with a torch (so you can REALLY stretch the metal) but if you are trying to save the paint, stay at least 1.5" away from stile lines.
If you are worried about stile lines on a FD, the stile is in the curves. (there are no stile lines on a FD) so feel free to go crazy.
That's about it. Have fun, learn something, help a friend out with their fenders, share the learning experience.
Best of luck, hope this has helped you better understand the ART of fender rolling.
I need to make a YouTube video on the different ways to roll fenders that I use.
Or maybe I'll do a write up with pictures soon.
P.S. Please excuse any misspellings, I wrote this whole damn thing on my iPhone while waiting for a job interview.
I would avoid the baseball bat method if you can. You can probably rent a fender roller for about $50 for the weekend and do all corners. Try looking in your local Craigslist for the fender roller rental or local car clubs forums. If you do use a fender roller, just make sure you take your time and don't rush or force things. They're really easy to use and gives you nice pro results. Here's link to a Youtube video of how to use the Eastwood fender roller, which I used and a couple of before and after of my front fender roller.
YouTube how to video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqiTfYyaI1A
Eastwood Fender Roller:

Passenger side fender before: caused by tire rub due to my low suspension & wheel setup:

Passenger side fender after: same setup as before but now without any tire rub:
YouTube how to video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqiTfYyaI1A
Eastwood Fender Roller:

Passenger side fender before: caused by tire rub due to my low suspension & wheel setup:

Passenger side fender after: same setup as before but now without any tire rub:







