want to change pads this week on my FD, have changed lots of pads on bikes and cars so expect no problems

however when i went i read the pdf file on brakes in the service manual download it seems to imply that the brake lines and caliper have to come off...

tell me it isn't so!

eric e

 

huh? not the front pads, they're easy to change. dunno about the rears tho.

 

No and no for front and rear

 

You just remove the pins from the front calipers (which doesn't even really require tools) and you have to remove the bottom slide bolt from the rear calipers to swing part of it up. But you don't have to remove the lines or any bolts that hold the caliper to the uprights.

-Max

 

thanks guys, looks like another weekend of delightful play

eric e

 

I just did all 4.

I removed FL caliper, couldn't break loose the bolts on FR, so changed the pads with caliper in place.

I removed both RR and RL calipers.

Lessons learned.

1) The front calipers have a top bolt with 1 washer and bottom with 2. Don't confuse the two when reassembling or turning and braking can scar the caliper. Fortunately I called someone while doing the rears and he pointed that out.

2) If removing the calipers, don't be slow with the clothes hanger/retention, I dropped 1 of the calipers (it slipped), and went tight against the lines. Everything looked fine, so I am crossing my fingers.

3) When reassembling emergency brake line on rears, it is simple to first put in the cable end, then pull forward and slip the fitting over the bracket it fits into.

4) The rears have a threaded piston. You need to rotate it with a set of needle nose pliers, don't use a c-clamp in it our you will **** it up.

5) Buy new M clips. I didn't and had to slowly stretch out the top one on the front, because it wouldn't press enough on the new pads. This was the original, with the original pads on the car. As it was, there was at least 3/16" pad removed from the fronts, so the clip had had many years to get set with that much wear (car had 7.5K last Memorial day, and I have added another 7.5K to date).

Time to go bed the HP+s. And top off the brake fluid.

 

You ought to bleed and refresh your fluid while you're at it, who knows how old your fluid might be...

 

You shouldn't need to remove any of the calipers. The front calipers have two fastening bolts on the backside of the hub. Remove the top one and just break loose the bottom one. The front caliper should swing off the rotor with relative ease. This should also make it much easier to get your c-clamp on the brake pistons. DO NOT disconnect your brake lines .... unless you like getting air into the system and having to flush the brake lines. You should have enough slack from the brake line as is.

The rears are even easier. Remove the banjo clip for the e-brake line and disconnect the e-brake line; remove the top bolt from the caliper. The rear caliper should now swing off. For the rear brake piston, there is a universal tool that you can pick up at Autozone. It's a screw type piston, so you have to screw it back into compressed position. The universal tool makes this part SO MUCH easier ... $8 and you'll need a 3/8" drive or ratchet, if you don't already have one.

Where do you get M-clips from? I can't find them anywhere ... Mazda doesn't sell them separate. Only with the brake pad kits.

 

I heard that there is no need for M-springs. This came of people who race...

 

Yeah, they're not needed for the brakes to work. But, I am noticing a squeal at times. Not terrible, but slightly irritating in traffic. Still ... anybody know where to get M-clips/springs?

 

FWIW I have never removed the front calipers to change pads. Just pull the pins and then pull the pads.

Half the time I forget that you can just swing the rears off and remove both bolts before putting one back in

 

It figures. I go to all the auto parts stores except the one that actually carries it. NAPA has the front caliper hardware kit (M-springs and clips). FYI.

 

DamonB: This just occurred to me. Now, if you just pulled the pads out through the caliper, don't you have to turn the rotors too (assuming they are still good)? Maybe I'm confusing myself somehow, but I've always had the rotors turned.

 

I only turn the rotors when it's needed. Rotor wear for me with the HP+ has been nice and even; maybe I am just lucky.

 

Yeah, I'll definitely change the brake fluid soon.

After a weekend of hard highway cruising, my front rims look like they are powdercoated, and I actually have noticeable dust on the rears!

 

Welcome to the world of HP+'s .... all-purpose wheel cleaner and garden hoses are your friends.