AMRAAM4

I have the brembo slotted and dimpled rotors, zinc plated, that I would like to put on Sunday morning. I know the procedure because I have researched it on Scuderia Ciriani's website, but I have a couple questions.

1. Will it be a simple swap because it seems very straight forward (remove caliper bolts..retaining screws, old rotor, put new on). However, I have new pads with about 1000 miles on them, if that. A friend said that I may need to depress the piston because the new rotor will most likely be a larger width than the stock, 64k mile rotor.

2. Never done brakes, just read about them. I have a C-clamp, will that suffice enough to depress the piston and where exactly would this be placed (maybe someone has a post or picture?)

I know this is a do-able job for me, however it will be my first time so I am going in as a rookie. Any help would be appreciated.

DamonB

The swap is pretty simple. Remove the brake pads first and then the calipers. Take note that one caliper bolt has an extra washer under it and be certain to not mix them up. If you do the bolt will score the backs of the rotors; oops. A couple of us have done that. If the old rotors are stuck to the hub, thread a bolt into the provided hole on the rotor hub. As you tighten the bolt it will push the rotor off the wheel hub. If you don't have the correct bolt in your toolbox, use the long one that tensions the alternator. I do it all the time

You probably will have to push the pistons back. Once the calipers are off you'll see the four pistons inside the caliper behind the brake pads. The easiest way to retract them completely is to crack open the bleed valve and then use your c-clamp to pull each piston into the caliper, then tighten the bleed valve. Put a hose on the bleed screw after you crack it open because you are going to push some brake fluid out when you retract the piston. As long as the pistons are retracted reassembly will be no sweat. Just don't mix up the two caliper bolts or forget to check your brake fluid level when complete. Don't be alarmed when you push the brake pedal for the first time and it goes to the floor; it's just pushing the pistons back out. No more than two pumps and the brakes should be nice and firm again.

AMRAAM4

whoa! that sounds more complicated than these...

Front:
1. Remove tire/wheel assembly from each side.
2. Setup impact driver to turn counter-clockwise. Make sure appropriate bit is being used, or else you will strip the retaining screws. If you do, you'll have to drill them out (not a big deal).
3. Use a hammer to apply force to the end of the impact driver as you twist it counter-clockwise. The retaining screw should come lose with a few whacks.
4. Remove both retaining screws.
5. Remove lower 14 mm bolt attaching caliper _assembly_ to knuckle.
6. Remove upper 14 mm bolt attaching caliper _assembly_ to knuckle. (these bolts are closer to the hub than the caliper swivel bolts).
7. Remove caliper assembly from knuckle and rest on lower control arm (LCA). Do not play with pads or pistons at this time, unless that was planned before hand.
8. Pull rotor off hub.
9. Place new rotor on hub (make sure to align retaining screw holes).
10. Insert 1 retaining screw into screw hole and tighten down with moderate force (so that you can remove it later). Do not install the other screw. (Because it serves no purpose. One screw works fine, in fact, zero screws work fine. They don't secure anything, the wheel mounting to the hub secures the rotor. But the main reason is to keep one in case you need to use it on the rear rotor to break it free from the hub.)
11. Slide caliper assembly back over rotor.
12. Reinstall upper and lower 14 mm bolts attaching caliper assembly to knuckle. Tighten bolts to factory specs.
13. Re-install tire/wheel assembly and torque lug-nuts to spec.