Need some help with my autoX setup
#1
Need some help with my autoX setup
I've got an '89 GTUs and i'm running KYB AGX's for struts and eiback springs (pro kit). I like the set up because its an upgrade from stock and its still streetable. I'm about to buy some Yellow Koni adjustables and some RSR race springs. I'm probably gonna run the Koni's for struts but which spring should i run on my car? Note that i want the car streetable still and i want to run it on the AutoX. any input/help would be greatly appriciated. if it helps the spring rates for the eibachs are front: 70/185 and the rears are 85/165. i was told that the RSR's are front 335 and 224 for the rear.
Thanks in advance,
Izzy
Thanks in advance,
Izzy
#2
Rotary Revolutionary
iTrader: (16)
I have ground controls on tociko blues, and the spring rates are right around 325 F 250 R (or pretty close) . Its perfectly streetable, and a HUGE improvement over stock at auto X. But after a while you'll get used to them and start noticing more body roll.
Fortunately Koni's are re-valvable so if you want to go w/ a stiffer spring later on, you'll have that option.
Fortunately Koni's are re-valvable so if you want to go w/ a stiffer spring later on, you'll have that option.
#4
Lives on the Forum
Don't forget swaybars. You can get away with a softer spring rate if you go heavier on the swaybars, and it won't have such a negative effect on the ride comfort...
#5
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The RSRs are going to be about the stiffest factory-perch spring you are gonna find. Spend the money and get ground controls, probably in the 400/300 neighborhood to start with. Its still fairly streetable and will transform the car through the cones. If you run r comps, you might want to go even high, the Konis are functional up to about 500 lb/in with stock valving.
#6
well looks like the koni's and RSR's aren't gonna happen, the guy sold them out from under me. so what are some suggestions for my current set up? KYB AGX's and the Eibachs. also have a cusco rear strut bar installed because it helps my rear hatch from flexing. right now i'm running my stock GTUs wheels which are 16X7 on some 225/50/16 Potenza RE-01R's
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#14
Lives on the Forum
It will have a negative effect of picking up the rear at corner exit though, which is no fun depending on which (if any) diff you have. I always was told sway bars were more of a fine tuning thing.
The RSRs are going to be about the stiffest factory-perch spring you are gonna find. Spend the money and get ground controls, probably in the 400/300 neighborhood to start with. Its still fairly streetable and will transform the car through the cones. If you run r comps, you might want to go even high, the Konis are functional up to about 500 lb/in with stock valving.
The RSRs are going to be about the stiffest factory-perch spring you are gonna find. Spend the money and get ground controls, probably in the 400/300 neighborhood to start with. Its still fairly streetable and will transform the car through the cones. If you run r comps, you might want to go even high, the Konis are functional up to about 500 lb/in with stock valving.
#19
Rotary Revolutionary
iTrader: (16)
^ So I have read on the website, looks like some of those spherical bushings will be on the agenda down the road...unless they require machining of the subframe...
I just got the MMR tranny mounts, and passanger side motor mount installed. the passenger mount was completely sheared in two, turns out there was no underside nut on the driver side mount lol.
Surprisingly there isn't an increase in vibration at idle or really at highway cruising speeds. Its mainly in the higher RPM's in lower gears (1,2,3, above 4k). And I'm not entirely sure that's not drive shaft related anyway. The car feels 20x better when driven purposefully, and is tons more responsive. Guess I'll have to update whenever I get that driver side mount in...
I just got the MMR tranny mounts, and passanger side motor mount installed. the passenger mount was completely sheared in two, turns out there was no underside nut on the driver side mount lol.
Surprisingly there isn't an increase in vibration at idle or really at highway cruising speeds. Its mainly in the higher RPM's in lower gears (1,2,3, above 4k). And I'm not entirely sure that's not drive shaft related anyway. The car feels 20x better when driven purposefully, and is tons more responsive. Guess I'll have to update whenever I get that driver side mount in...
#20
so over the weekend i installed a set of energy suspensions front control arm bushings, tie rod and ball joint boots, and front sway bar bushings. the car has a better road feel and the steering feels firmer. haven't done the rear control arms, because of the amount of stuff that has to come out.