I need some advice on which way to go on brakes, new rotors, pads and lines or big brake kit? I mostly do just some spirited driving in the canyon's, but there will be a track opening up here in utah supposedly later this year and I do plan on attending that as much as money will permit. I'm just not really sure on what direction to go??

I did a search but it just seemed like a bunch of links that started with what do i get and then someone asking what they where gonna be driving like and no response from the thread starter. I'm tired of my friend kicking my butt down the canyon in his 350Z, his stock brembo's and traction control are smoking me. I'm sure my driving doesn't help but my brakes start to get a little mushy and soft about 1/2 to 3/4 the way through the run.

thanks in advance for any help.

 

There are basically 2 types of fade that you'll encounter:

1. Pad
2. Fluid

Usually with pad fade (and there are a few catagories in there) you'll have a firm pedal but no braking power (or braking power loss). With fluid fade, the pedal will get softer and be mushy.

The stock brakes are fine for about 90% of the people on this forum. Given the proper setup, the stock brakes do a VERY good job. Here's what I would recommend:

1. Start with a good brake fluid. I would recommend Super Blue ATE (or ATE Gold 200, same thing just different color... the colors are used to alternate between fluid changes so you know when all the old fluid is out of your system):

http://www.motiveproducts.com/04fluids.html

I would also recommend a Power Bleeder if you don't have one:

http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html

ATE is a good street/track fluid. It doesn't absorb water as quickly as some of the higher end racing fluids which makes it more attractive as you can go a little longer between flushes. Also, it's MUCH cheaper than some of the racing fluids.

2. Brake pads are the next thing to select. I would recommend using different pads (on the front) for the track verses the street. For the street, I would recommend something like the Carbotech Bobcat's (I'm using the Bonez Stage I pads). I don't recommend Hawk pads as they dust heavily compared to other pads and their dust can be corrosive to some wheel finishes.

For the track, I use the N-Tech Lapping Day pads on the front (and keep my upgraded street pads on the rear):

"This pad breaks some established rules. It has lots of initial bite, and an MU of 0.54-0.56. It can be used as both a street pad, due to its cold temperature rotor friendliness, as well as a VERY serious track pad. This is a serious track pad that has high torque and high initial bite, that is still rotor friendly, with moderate dusting, and moderate noise. It has too much intial bite for autocrossing in a light car or on a slow course. The temperature range is 150 degrees up to 1250. If you are serious about your track performance for competition or lapping days, this pad will do the job for you."

http://www.ntechengineering.com/inde...d=6&model_id=2

I do drive to the events on those pads, but they are not an everyday street pad. They require a good amount of heat to start grabbing. It usually takes about a half lap or so to get them warm enough to start grabbing. I leave a LOT of room in front of me to the next car when driving to events with those pads on. If I could get my lazy butt up earlier in the morning, I'd just put them on at the track.

3. Rotors. Cross Drilled are not recommend. Slotted or normal are you best choices.

4. Lastly, SS brake lines are an extra if you like. They aren't needed but definitely don't harm anything.

 

I completely agree with Mahjik. You don't need a big brake kit to get your stopping done reliably. Just shop around for the aforementioned components and you should be fine on those spirited canyon runs.

 

Ok, sounds like a good start to me, and saves me some money over the big brakes. So my first question is on the power bleeder does the import one have the right adapter? Second, is there a prefered brand of rotors or not really just either plain or slotted? Third, how many liters do I need of the flush and fill? And lastly where would I get the Carbotech bobcat's?

Thanks for all the great info.

 

It doesn't really screw onto the brake reservoir, it clamps over top to fit a variety of imports. You can get the exact adapter if you like from a local parts shop (or I think Motive has a set of adapters you can purchase).

Brand doesn't matter all that much. You can get Brembo replacement stock rotors from TireRack .

1. Liter will work. However, I usually order about 3-4 at a time just so I don't have to place another order anytime soon (but I go through the fluid since I track the car).

Talk to these guys:

http://www.dpeweb.com/ProductsList.a...oductTypeID=14

Tell them I sent you (Kyle).

 

How do the Bonez Stage I pads compare to the Carbontech Bobcats

 

I haven't tried them on my FD yet. What type of driving are you doing? Track, AutoX, just street?

 

You have a much more nimble car than the 350Z. If you have decent fluid and pads, the stock brakes should be more than adequate to take the chase to him. As Kyle indicated, Super Blue is a good fluid choice. Axxis Ultimate pads are a good, economical choice for "spirited" street use and are readily available.

Oh, and if this is a downhill run, let your gearing take some of the load off the brakes. If you're just riding your brakes all the way down the canyon, no pad or fluid is going to last.

By the way, brake fade on a fast descent can be a very serious issue. I'd get this sorted out before making any more high-speed runs.

 

One more thing - once your brakes have gotten "mushy and soft" you have likely boiled your brake fluid and you need to at minimum bleed them if not flush the system. Once boiled you'll have air in your lines and your fluid will not be nearly as resilient. Your braking will only get worse.

 

Carbotech can give you an official answer, but I don't think Bobcats are suited for the track on a higher powered car. I have used their XP's. Though they wore quickly (3 HPDE's), they are much friendlier to your rotors than Hawk Blues.

 

Yeah, the racing is downhill, I do use the gearing but it's just not enough. I'll probably flush the fluid soon but the brake pads won't be here till middle of the month. Do I need to get rotors also or should I be fine with the pads and fluid?

 

As long as your stock rotors are still within spec, they are fine.