cpa7man...lol i am going to buy the power bleeder also..as soon as i get some more time to change the pads and fluids in my car...

 

I have a power bleeder for sale. 30 shipped. I used it twice and its difficult to get a good seal with my 929 master cylinder but works great with the stock one.

If interested send me a pm.

Thanks

 

I love the Motive PowerBleeder.

It does have a lot of setup overhead compared to Speedbleeders for just doing a quick trackside bleed, but Speedbleeders don't work so well after a while when the thread sealant comes off (at which point you could just add some new sealant, but I just switched to the pressure bleeder).

It is almost essential if you are going to mess with the clutch hydraulics.

It can be a bit tricky to get a good seal on the master cylinder the first time you use it on a given car, but it is fantastic for doing a full flush. Be sure to do the test setup (no fluid, just pump some air and see if it holds by watching the pressure gauge) as described in the instructions. After you get a good seal, THEN add the fluid and bleed away. It is very easy once you get it hooked up. I have been able to use it successfully on my RX-7 with both the stock and 929 master cylinders and on my 90 Integra daily driver.

-Max

 

I have been using Valvoline SynPower brake fluid for about three years now. I used it in my race car, my wife's Eclipse and in my tow vehicle (GMC Yukon).

I raced nearly two complete Solo I seasons and only had to bleed the brakes once before a track session. I never experienced fade or a soft petal, for ~$5.00 a quart you can't beat the quality for the price.

BTW: I use Porterfield R-4 full race pads with PowerSlot rotors at all 4 corners.

Valvoline SynPower Brake Fluid

 

Sounds like a good third choice. 2 good recomendations so far for Valvoline.

Thanks Fritz your Power Bleeder has found a new home.

 

I boiled some Valvoline SynPower fluid once, but I was running some very worn Hawk Blues (lots of heat transfer to the fluid) with 450+ lbs of driver and passenger in the car on a track with lots of braking zones. I thought that I had worn through the pads down to the backing plates, but I found that they was still 3/16" or so of friction material. The brakes went away almost completely, very quickly. I figure I must have boiled the fluid. I suspect that the fluid is fine for most puposes and that other fluids would have likely boiled as well, but it has scared me away from SynPower a bit and toward some fluids with higher boiling points.

$5 for 32 oz and easy availability do make the SynPower stuff a very attractive choice for many situations.

Castrol LMA is a popular auto-parts-store solution as well if you don't have the need for a super high boiling point. I used to notice that it was the fluid of choice for many IT racers when I was back in Michigan. It may not be good enough for our high power cars on tough tracks, however.

-Max

 

IMO, Valvoline is the way to go for street, autocross, and even light track. It's cheap, available at most corner autoparts stores, and has a 513° dry boiling point. ATE is only 20° higher at 4x the price. If you want to get more serious on the track, then Motul is the only way to go (594° dry boiling point).
If you track the car, who cares about water absorption? You should be bleeding the brakes frequently enough that it doesn't matter.

 

how much synpower are you buying and how much are you paying? the ATE cost 9.95 for a liter. and the motul cost 9.95 for half a liter.

 

Buy it off the shelf by the quart. Don't remember the price but safe to say less than half of the "race" fluids.

 

http://www.motiveproducts.com/ordernow_bleeders.htm which power bleeder did you guys buy? the universal one or the import one?

 

it seems like the universal one uses the same adapter as the import specific one... just that the import unit has an extra adapter.

Mazda MX6 626 (w/ 1 ¾” screw on reservoir cap) 1979-1999 adapter 1100
Mazda All others including Miata All adapter 1101

so my question now is... is our reservoir the 626 style or not. if not then just using the universal unit will be cheaper for us.

 

i thought that, from reading in the StopTech tech section, pressure bleeders that have the fluid and air in the same chamber will force extra air into the fluid and are therefor bad?

 

ATE SBR

I'm guessing that few of us are really hard core enough to NEED to pay DOUBLE what the already expensive ATE costs to get a few degrees higher boiling point.

 

A shop near me has ton of RBF600 in stock. Let me know if you want some.

 

Good post about brake fluid selection here.

http://www.highrpm.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=62