i was just on craigslist and this guy says that he has the stock mistubishi evo brembo brake calipers and that they will fit on an rx7

i asked him if it would fit on the 3rd gen but he hasnt answered yet
does anyone know if it will fit on the FD?
or what modifications would be necessary to make em fit?

 

its been done on a FC...

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/my-evo-ix-brembo-calipers-fc3s-upgrade-719567/

 

what is the advantage over the stock 4 pot?

 

I want to ask the same question.

It's my opinion that the stock calipers are NOT the weak link in braking.

 

You're asking for trouble here. Retrofitting brakes made for a dissimilar car, with different master cylinder, and different etc., is a recipe for disaster unless you're going to take the time to do the proper ENGINEERING, in which case you'd be better served just buying one of the many brake kits that somebody's already taken the time to engineer.

There's nothing wrong with the stock FD brakes in most cases.

 

that makes sense
thanks guys

 

ok next question then
for some good street driving
so not too hardcore but i do autocross every now and then
what would be the best pads?
i was looking at the hawk hps or hp+

 

Hawk pads, better brake fluid and stainless lines should be all you need.

 

Ferodo DS2500 pads
ditto on the stainless lines

 

what brake fluid do you recommend?
and good to see another nederlander with an rx7 zanthrax

 

What I would recommend:

Pads: Bonez Stage I: http://www.rx7.com/store/rx7/fdbrakes.html
SS Lines
Fluid: ATE Blue/Gold: http://store.motiveproducts.com/shar...unt2=713340401

 

FD brakes are pretty small by today's standards. Sure they stop well, but the rotors are just too small and can't dissipate the heat from extensive track duty. For street they are fine as long as they are maintained. I can put together a brake package for you with any style rotor you want, performance pads, ss lines, and heavy duty brake fluid.

 

BTW I ran the same calipers on my cobra and it stopped much better than my last fd that had stock calipers, slotted rotors, and hawk pads. Much better pedal feel too.

 

so should i go with the ate blue or gold...i dont get the difference...

 

They are the same, just different colors to help you know when you've done a full bleed. i.e. if you change from blue to gold, you bleed your brakes until you only have the gold fluid coming out and you know all the old fluid is out.

 

how would you compare the bonez stage 1 pads with the axxis ultimates in terms of performance.

 

ok so i just ordered the Hawk HPS pads and the ATE blue
now where is the cheapest place to get some SS lines?

 

ok guys i want to pick this thread back up

i went out and got a complete front assembly from and evo 8...thats the rotors, calipers, hubs everything pretty much...

i'm going to retrofit them onto the car, it shouldnt be that difficult, i think i'll probably just have to modify the braket that bolts to the caliper to the hub, or maybe swap out the complete hub assembly plus some modification

this will be the first ISS performance retrofit braking system...i'll keep you guys updated with pictures of the build and everything

 

Glad to see you followed everyone's advise

 

lol i did follow everyones advice and i did the fluid, pads, and ss lines on the stock brakes but its just not enough stopping power for me cus my rims are too big

plus i'd like to do something different and if everything works out well this could be a great cost effective alternative to getting Gran Turismos or stop-techs or somthin

 

I like EBC Yellow Stuff, they are great. They don't squeal, they don't need to warm up, and they stop on a dime. They are great pads.
I think the weakest link in the FD's brake system is probably the stock rubber...

 

[QUOTE but its just not enough stopping power for me cus my rims are too big



WTF does the size of your rims have to do with the stopping power of your brakes? I can't wait to hear this..perhaps i was absent that day in Engineering school!

Mike

 

ok first tell me wut engineering school you go to cus i'll make sure not to apply there

wheel/tire performance 101

when you have a large diameter wheel (like mine) you have more rotating mass attached to the hub because there is more metal required to make the wheel that size, and almost all the weight in a wheel set up is in the rim, and the tires on the wheels dont make up for much of the weight of your set up...more rotating mass means there is more momentum in the wheel, thus the brakes have to work much harder that stock spec because they are required to stop a greater rotating mass in the wheel itself...

the barrel/lip of the wheel is where most of the weight of the wheel lies in most wheels (like mine)...since the wheels i have are 20s, yes 20s, i know too big but w.e. they are sexy as hell, their barrel/lip is 4 inch farther out than the stock 16 inch wheels, therefore producing more leverage on the wheel hub/rotor assembly, which in turn makes the stock brakes less effective...

look if you're new to motorsports than sorry for being rude, but u were rude to begin with

but thats why the track guys are always trying to fit the smallest lightest wheel they can over their brakes...it lets the car stop easier and it makes the car more nimble, and also grip better because you fit a larger profile tire, but u also have to find that happy balance between the size of your car and power and the motorsport application to find what is the best wheel setup for your motorsport

most of the circuit guys will agree that a light 17inch wheel (ex. enkei rpf1) that will clear a 13inch big brake kit is hands down the best track set up

the drag guys go 16inches with lots and lots of drag radial rubber

that was your wheel set up 101

next time approach the topic more carefully cus unless you're a racing god, theres always someone out there thats gona show u somethin ur doing is wrong, believe me it happens to me all the time

peace

 

ummm leverage? Assuming the total diameter of his wheels is larger. What kind of engineer are you?

 

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