BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the replies guys

Lol, this is some confusing stuff! I do prefer a more aggressive offset so I'm happy to go lower than +50.

The only reason I'm going for the 295 r888 is that I'm making 540rwhp and over 500rwtq, so traction (or lack thereof) really is an issue for me.

So 18x11 +45 with a narrow 295 should work and for the rear.

For the front I need a +50 offset so 18x10? Would that make a 255 or 265 work?

If you desire the understeer from a narrower wheel and tire up front that 18x10 +50 and 255/265 will work fine.

But you also said you would like a "more aggressive offset" and +50 would be sunken in 3/4" compared to the 18x11 +45 I show above.

If you run 0 front camber this 18x10 +50 will work out well.

If you want some camber you might want to drop your offset into the low 40s/high 30s to keep it from looking so sunken in.

This is all looks- not performance- 18x10 +50 is perfect for handling performance/low aerodynamic drag/fitting a fat tire with very low camber.

You can go to ~ +35 offset on 18x10 with 255 and some camber or ~ +38 offset on 18x10 with 265 and some camber. This is with front fender lips rolled under.

thekanezzi

I see what ur saying. Thanks for the info guys.

Looks wise I think this car is perfect and appears to be stock bodied.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Shrug
Looks pretty close to my 18x11 +45 with 295 up front to me, but the car is obviously lower (and the attendant camber gain).

If that is the fitment you want up front with a 10" wide wheel- a 18x10 +30 with a 255 tire and 3deg negative camber would do it.

The rear wheel appears to stick out more than mine with more tire stretch to tuck it back in on the top. I would say 18x11.5 +38 with a 295 tire and 1 deg negative camber would do it.

Looks wise I think this car is perfect and appears to be stock bodied.

If by rolled and pulled fenders you mean stock bodied.

Look at the reflection over the rear wheel arch and the flatter top side profile the front fenders have and where the front tire sidewalls have obviously rubbed a rolled under/contoured fender edge.

Looks more aggressive than my roll/pull to me.

thekanezzi

Great info. I really appreciate the help man. My rears were rolled when I bought the car and I can't find anyone to give them a pull for me locally, but it looks like I'll need to search harder to get the look I want.

Great looking car by the way. I'm considering a f14 as well.

jkstill

iTrader: (11)

Looks good, but won't perform as well as BLUETII's car.

Notice the difference in ride height. The roll center on the still FD is much lower, which will cause more body roll, which requires more spring, and stiffer anti-roll bars because it is so low.

That can be fixed with different suspension components, all of which cost $$$.

AkumaFD

iTrader: (4)

Anyone want to give me some insight? Before you flame I've researched but fitment hasn't really been my best suit so I figured I'd ask for those who enjoy helping. Right now I have 17x 8.5" fronts ( 3 piece fikse fm10's fronts are 6.5 barrel with 2" lip) et of 37mm. Rears are 17x10 (7.5 barrel with 2.5 lip) et of 43mm. Fronts are currently on 255/40/17 and rears are 275/40/17. I've really been thinking pushing the width slightly further and don't think I'll run any clearance issues but would love some input from my fam. I'd like to take the lips from the rear and move to the front (2.5) and buy new 3" lips for the rear and maintain tire sizes as I plan to do auto x and aggressive driving here and there. I have no current rub issues whatsoever. Have the front fender liners in and rolled fronts. Rears aren't rolled but I have no problem doing so and think I'll have to. I don't believe the lip increase changes any clearance aside from the fender proximity. So end result would be fronts of 17x9 ( .50" increase) Rears of 17x 10.5 ( .50" increase) Thoughts!? Thanks in advance

Ps I have coilovers

stealthrt

iTrader: (1)

Could someone review my wheel selection and let me know what they think? I got the wheels for a good price and they are close on the offsets listed in this thread but slightly off. I do not have tires for them yet so any advice would be great!

Rays gram lights 57xtreme
18 x 9.5 + 40 Front
18 x 10.5 + 40 Rear

I was thinking 255/35/18 Front and 295/30/18 Rear

Thoughts?

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Fronts will fit fine at 18x9.5 +40 and 255 and a little camber (might want to roll front fender lips under at the top so it does not catch going up steep drives with wheel turned because if it catches it leaves an ugly crease)

Rear will fit 18x10.5 +40 and 265 on stock fender/camber.

Rear will fit with 18x10.5 +40 and 275 with rolling the fender lip under and a slight pull to the fender (better for rear traction) or over 1.5deg negative camber.

To fit 295 with 40 offset in the rear will require a fairly big roll/pull or lots of negative camber (which I assume you don't want as it looks like you are going for a drag set-up).

I would run 255 front and 265 rear if I had those wheels on my FD.

I had 18x10.5 +38 265 front and rear on my FD before the 18x11 +45 295 front and rear and it was great.

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

I agree with him as well. I would run a 255/35/18 and 265/35/18 rear with those widths and offsets. The taller tire of a 265 will do well for traction anyway.

if you are interested in some tires I have a set of (2) I would be willing to sell in 265/35/18 tire size. Bridgestone RE-11 if you want them. I would also sell all (4) if you want. new unused never mounted tires.

nemix

I'm looking at running tr Motorsport c3 rims (17x9+48) or enkei nt03s (17x9.5+44). Looks like I'd be fine with the c3 rims and can put a spacer in the back but will need a roll on the enkei rims for the front. Tire size looks like 255/40/17 is recommended in this thread.

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

If you re rolling your fenders, I recommend a 17x10 RPF1 +38mm with a 255/40/17 tire. it will get you better handling and I don't think the fitment is too hard.

nemix

Not much of a fan of the looks on those. Not going for anything too extreme since this is never tracked.

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

Just to let you know, the 17x9.5 NT03 is not concave. I have nt03's on my car and I like the concave look. just a FYI.

nemix

Mind posting a few pics when you get a minute? Think most of the pictures I've been looking at are the 18s which are concave, didn't notice 17s weren't.

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

17x9.5 +44mm. not concave. I widened a set of 18x10.5 +30 to 18x11.5 +42.7mm, rpf1 18x10 +38mm black car., 17x10 rpf1 on s2000, 255/40/17 tires.

silverTRD

iTrader: (37)

17 x10 +38 RPF1 all around work on a FD? I'm sure I can get it to work with camber but will it perform well?

Also, big brake clearance?

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

With rolled fenders and just a little negative camber (-1.3 camber all around will be fine, this is the recommended street negative camber you should have anyway) you should fit no problem. It will perform very well. The tires in this width are around 9.5-10" wide (tread width) for extreme sports tires, the slight stretch will give direct steering feel, progressive break away characteristics. This is the set up I would personally run on my car if I went with 17's.

I am unsure how BBK friendly they are? You could run up to a 5mm spacer if needed and still fit.

stealthrt

iTrader: (1)

I really would like to fit at least some 275's under there. I feel like a 265 would be too much stretch, and that really isn't the look I am going for. I don't mind rolling the fenders at all, but how much of a pull do you think it would take?

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

I really would like to fit at least some 275's under there. I feel like a 265 would be too much stretch, and that really isn't the look I am going for. I don't mind rolling the fenders at all, but how much of a pull do you think it would take?

Not much pull with that roll. I bet the act of rolling the lip all the way back to the outer contour of the fender at the top would pull it out enough.

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

It depends on what kind of driving you do. tires work best in their optimum heat range. wider tires on the street don't do as well as some of the skinnier tires if you don't heat them up to temp.

traction is a function of optimum heat range, go wider if your tire is too hot, also larger sidewall tires at lower pressures elongate the patch for traction in a straight line, if that is what you are interested in.

My car doesn't really spin with 265's or 285's with warm temps, in the cold they can spin pretty easily.

stealthrt

iTrader: (1)

I currently run 245/40's on a 8.5" rim and I spin through 4th, so I need as much traction as I can get.


Another option I was thinking about was getting wide body rear fenders. something like the 25mm shine Feed style rears. My biggest concern about doing this would be how it would look. Since I already have my wheels, would it look awkward if I were to do a 295 or 305 in the rear with widebody fenders and a 255 up front with stock fenders? Would the rears look much more recessed with the +40 offset (Without using wheel spacers) compared to the front. I also can't find a picture of a car with just rear widebody, so that alone may look dumb?

Also with how you were talking about tires getting better cold traction when stretched, would the wider tires actually hurt me in the traction department? I would not be taking the wheels to the track (I have ET Streets on stockers for the strip), just street driving. maybe an occasional autocross.

Thanks!

silverTRD

iTrader: (37)

I'm looking into 255/40/17s all around on the 17x10s. The star specs have a tread width of 9.6". Should be predictable. Thoughts? Or other tire recommendations?

sip

In 2014 I won the Atlantic Regional Time Attack Championship with my 93 FD stock drive train and 245/45/16 on 8.5 wheels.

This year our track is hosting the National Competition and I wouldn't mind owning that title as well. I have the home court advantage on a very technical 1.6 mile 11 turn short track with many elevation changes and a top speed of about 110 MPH.

I think going to a wider tire would help my chances significantly. The track is not the smoothest and I think a skinny 18 inch would do more harm than good. I have been toying with the idea of a 295/35/17.

The front and rear fenders are rolled and beat out with a BFH so that is not a concern. I am concerned with rubbing on control arms, and when turning, along with not altering the scrub radius so that it changes the turn in of the car more than my current wheels (16x8.5+40 F / 16x8+30 R. Does anyone have a track setup that they have tried. or could provide some insight; it would be appreciated.

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

I think it would be an excellent set up and I would run it on my car as well in those exact sizes.

The tire choice is good as well. I like all of the extreme sports tires class. I have been in AD08, RE-11, XS and have liked all of these in dry weather. I am in a street driven car and do canyon/mountain roads.

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

What tires are you running? make/model right now?

traction going forward is different than turning traction.


My philosophy when it comes to handling (turning) is to maximize grip and confidence/predictability. This lends itself to a smaller tire sidewall and slightly stretched sidewalls. this holds the tread in place when turning. the width gains traction as long as you can get it to temp.

straight line traction is about going to a taller tire on a small diameter wheel and lowering the PSI to elongate the contact patch in the forward direction. you run as wide as you can get to temp and gain traction. the more WHP, the wider the tire.

if you are just spinning tires, perhaps your tires aren't to temp? the tires are not a sticky tire, or your tires aren't wide enough and overheat.

its normal for cold tires on cold surfaces to have poor traction. this will be the case with any tire you choose.