jdmsuper7

iTrader: (1)

Just in time for the upcoming ProSolo and Divisionals, I lucked into some 225/45/17 V710s. They are going on a FC with Koni Yellows (stock valving), 375/275 (will go a bit higher at some point, like 450/350) GCs, and stock sways for the moment. The car is going to get aligned next week. What settings do these things tend to like? I have a ton of front camber since I installed the suspension, should I keep it at like 2 deg or so? Any other things to worry about like toe? I think the car is gonna push like crazy on this setup, so I'd like to get it a bit more tail happy for killing cones

I was reading that I don't need to worry much about keeping them cool (I always hosed my Azenis off between runs), and that I should keep the pressures low, like 30 or 32 psi cold if the car is stiffly sprung. I know it is gonna be a big switch from street tires, but I want to make it as painless as possible so I can concentrate on learning to drive on r-comps.

Any thoughts guys? Only street miles are driving to events.

magus2222

iTrader: (22)

ok, first off, wtf are you talking about? what type of racing?
drifting?
autox?
track?
also, depending on the racing, a little negative camber is good, specially in the back, a little up front, not horrible though.
oh, and toe is SOOOO important, too much + toe and you feel like something is holding you back and changes your steering angle
too much - toe and you will destroy the tire and get MAJOR saw toothing, resulting in a huge cut to tire life.
caster you cant change too much, so dont worry about it.
so, and ditch the gay *** gc, either go full coilover or get some dedicated springs and good adjustable shocks.
other than that, good luck!

Lloyd

frijolee

iTrader: (1)

You want as much caster as you can because in corners it becomes the poor man's camber gain (FD's don't have this issue due to double wishbone design)

Camber is dictated by tire temp so that's pretty easy. Start at -2.5 degree front -2.0 rear and go from there.

Toe is subjective but I wouldn't do anything extreme. Toe out will wander but help with turn in. Toe in is more stable in a straight line. Both of the above is true of the front.

I like 0 rear toe and between 0 and 1/16" in up front for a street car that sees time on a road course. In Autocross or really tight tracks I might try 1/16" toe out.

Getting the car to rotate nicely has a lot to do with tire pressure, weight distribution, and swaybars... I'd start with a conservative alignment and go from there playing with tire pressure to get the rotation you want. If you can't get enough to balance the car then you start thinking swaybars or change you tire stagger (if you're running it).

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

Its kumho V10s dude, I don't think hes going to be drifting anytime soon..haha. And actually a LOT of negative camber is good in the front, and only a little in the rear. The rear gains a good amount of - camber under compression (look at lowered FCs with no rear camber adj.) and the front doesn't; well maybe a slight amount but only in the first few inches of travel. This is because the front has struts and the rear has a multi link semi trailing arm design. Toe out = better turn in and more transitional oversteer at the cost of twitchyness at high speeds. Toe in = more high speed stability at the cost of turn in. Tire wear is from toe will be irrelevant unless this is a street car. The negative caster angle can be increased to provide more camber gain with the wheels turned but causes more weight transfer to the outside wheel under hard cornering and reduces steering response. The GC sleeves do reduce suspension travel by whatever length the sleeves are but the money you save from the setup can be used on other modifications. I personally don't think it makes a big difference unless you're riding your bumpstops every turn.

Different tires prefer to have different alignment settings. I'd start with max - camber in the front and something like 2* in the back and buy a pyrometer to monitor tire temperatures. The caster and toe will be something you'll have to play with on track as it depends on your driving style. Most people start with toe out for autocross because of the tight transitions.