Has any one else installed these and had issues with height?

Mine is threaded at the very bottom of the monotube with enough thread left for the lock ring and I rub on semi hard compressions up front.

The rears have plenty of travel and adjustability for height.


My fronts though. They needed a rolled fender and removal of the inner liner.
They still hit the metal framing in the fender though. Which become dreadfully hard to steer with on a manual rack.

Anything I may be over looking to remedy this? other than hammering the framing up for more room?

Could preloading/compressing the spring aid any?

Pic before I rolled fender


I'm running 235/40/17's on a 17x8 rim with 35mm offset.

 

preloading the spring will raise the car

at the expense of shock travel of course

that sucks though. on most coilovers you do not need to preload to achieve a less aggressive height. strange.

 

The Kontrol Pro's are the lowest of the Ksport family.

My buddy runs the slides and doesn't have this issue.

 

Post a picture where the coilover mounts to the steering knuckle.

 

It's not that simple. It doesn't add or subtract any travel, it simply changes how much is allotted to compression and droop. Sometimes, depending on the spring, coilover, car, etc, preloading is essential or you'll be riding on the bumpstops all the time, which is bad, and preloading is adding to your compression travel by taking away from the excessive droop travel.

 

i see. let me think about this. tell me if i got it.

hypothetical car x with 0 preload sits fine and dandy at rest. if you preload the spring, the car will sit higher relative to the initial setting. the shock has gained compression travel (since it sits higher with car on ground at rest state) and has lost droop travel (meaning you might be three wheeling it on a hard turn if you preloaded too much and the system is so inclined)

hypothetical car y with 0 preload sits on its bump stops at rest. it effectively has 0 compression travel and the entire length of the shock's available travel as droop travel. by raising preload until the car gets off the bump stops, you've added that amount of compression travel and reduced the amount of droop travel.

 

I would also love to know. My Ohlins are the same way. They rub the metal fender frame without the lining inside, even with my springs preloaded.

 

That's right. Since the car exerts a force on the spring and shock, this will still cause them to compress, giving you your droop travel. It is possible (theoretically at least) to preload the system untill it doesn't move when you set the car down, giving you zero droop travel, which is bad. It won't affect the spring rate of the system, but it will effect how it takes impacts from full droop, like if you're 3 wheeling it, or if you just came off a jump or something. Needless to say that's not an issue >99% of the time for >99% of drivers on >99% of cars.

With softer springs, and with lower total travel, you'll need to preload more (the stock system is pre-loaded, hence the need for a spring compressor to dis-assemble them).

As an example, a street FC might weigh, say 2900lbs with a driver, with 400lb/in front and 275lb/in rear springs (reasonably typical race car spring rates), they'll compress about 1 7/8" front and 2 5/8" rear. If your shocks don't have much travel to begin with, you'll definetely need to pre-load.

Different people have different oppinions on the "proper" way to set up coilovers. I personally like the method where you set them up so that the bumpstops support the weight of the car at the absolute shortest stroke possible before the suspension hits the body, the tire rubs or something like that, then adjust ride height with pre-load, assuming that you've got long enough travel left for sufficient droop at your chosen ride height.