An 18x10.5 +50 vs 18x10 +50 only comes outboard an additional 6mm, or 1/4 an inch. You'll still probably need spacers in the back, which isn't a huge deal really. Anyone running a square setup on an FD can benefit from a 10mm spacer unrolled, more (like 15mm) rolled.

I skimmed back through the thread, maybe I missed it---- what power levels are you looking at, and which specific 285/30 tires do you already have?

IMO for a street FD, 18x10.5 front/back with 285/30 tires is simply a lot of metal and rubber for no real benefit. I understand you already have the tires, just throwing in my two pesos

 

I would run a 255 wide tires on a 10", 265 on a 10.5" and 285 on a 10.5" or 11".

depends on the tire selection.

If you are going to spend the money, I think wider is better. go all out and go with a 11" wide wheel.

 

Hi Rich,

I always appreciate your input. I'm currently making ~360 whp/tq, but plan to make a little north of 400 whp/tq with a future cam/head combo. I got some Continental ExtremeContact DW's in 285/30/18 for about half price - couldn't pass it up. I was hoping to be able to hook from a dig, so I went with a width that other mild LS setup guys said would hook well. If need be, I could always keep the other set of 285's and run something a little more narrow up front.

Do you have any suggestions on wheel spacers?

How well does a 11" wheel fit under stock fenders?

 

On my 18x11 +45 with -2.4 front camber and -1.2 rear camber

You can't do more than +45 offset with the 11" wide wheel (12" wide lip to lip) with the camber I run or the wheel inner barrel will hit the suspension front and rear.

If I put a straight edge on the lower and upper wheel lip the straight edge also touches the edge of the rear and front (rolled + slight pull) fenders.

So, the wheel will tuck with suspension compression/camber gain- ofc, it is about scrapping the frame to tuck an 18" into the fender (ie, doesn't happen often).

But if you are running less front camber the top of the wheel would stick out past the edge of the fender as viewed from above (might tuck with suspension compression).

------------

The important thing to remember though is that offset fits the tire- not wheel width (as long as wheel clears suspension).

So, if you run 18x11 +45 with 285/30-18 (as I am running right now) it will fit the same as 18x10 +45 as far as tire.

The 285/30-18 BFG R1S I am running on the 18x11 is still a sloppy bitch even slightly stretched. Tire construction will impact tire response more than a slight stretch (the 295 R888 I had on just before were amazing response).

--------------

If you want to be able to run low camber up front and a 285 you will want the +50 offset which won't fit with 18x11 front or rear.

I know

 

Life was so much easier buying off the shelf Enkei's for my MX5.

So basically, I still want the 18.0x10.5" +50mm, but I'd want a 15mm spacer set for the rear if I roll my fenders?

 

Yes, I believe you want an 18x10.5 +50 for what you want to do.

Any spacer and fender rolling in the rear will be to meet your aesthetics- I have no comment here.

This site will really help you see all the details working together.

Online Wheel and Tyre Fitment Calculator. Offset, Tyre Stretch and Speedo Error | Will They Fit

 

Just to set your expectations, those Conti Extreme Contacts will just be marginal. Hook from a dig you will not.

 

Cool site and info -- thank you for all of your help BLUE TII!

The tires are a nice compromise of a lot of things I needed: wet weather performance (I will be moving to an area that rains a lot), soft compound, and lightweight (it's one of the lightest 285 tires). With the deal I got, it was hard to pass up. It's a soft compound that wears pretty quickly, so if they suck, I can go to another compound in a relatively short amount of time.

 

I will tell you that the 300 tread wear sumitomos I had were pretty much terrible for anything that asked for traction. At 285/30-18 they were just useless outside lasting a long time.

Stick to the +50 offset and you'll be fine. Your tire, as mentioned above, will drive the spacer needed in the rear. Aftermarket trailing arms are highly suggested but not necessary.

Personally I prefer a staggered setup. The 285's will tend to follow the road. 255's feel great for the front.

 

Sorry to bump an old thread, but there's a lot of good information here, and my question is related to this thread's content.

I currently have a set of 18x10+41 TE37's on order and am trying to figure out what size tires to use on them. My fenders are rolled already. So I'm thinking I can fit 285/30ZR18's all around. I don't mind running aggressive camber to make them fit. Just wondering if I'm going to have any rubbing issues in front.

 

Look at the section with of the tire. You want something like a 285/30 htrz 3 or 265/35 hankook rs4. These two tires are almost exactly the same on a 10" wheel.

With a +41 offset if be hesitant to run anything than bigger than the above sized tires.

 

Okay, thanks for the input. Once the wheels come in, I plan on mounting them onto the car and taking some measurements prior to ordering tires. I should be able to see how much room I have to work with.

 

18x10 +50, which is 7.5” backspace, was the preferred inboard sizing according to JP/CCW (I own a set and was just discussing it with him about 2 weeks ago, he makes gun parts now), which is approx. 10.5” +43 to achieve the same 7.5” backspace. 10.5+50 is 7.75” backspace (more inset). Seems like that might rub inboard at full steering lock?

 

Offser determines the position of rhe tire.
If you go from 18x10 +50 to 18x10.5 +41 you would have to fit a 18mm narrower tire (9mm less width fom offset on the outside plus the same 9mm less width on the inside because a tire will always center itself between the rim beads) to clear the same on the outside fender edge (so, a 265/35-18). Or, run wide body fenders.

A 18x10.5 +43 would fit 14mm narrower tire.

Camber is the wild card.
Every 1 degree negative camber is ~5.5mm more room on the outside and the same 5.5mm less room on the inside.
So, 18x10 +50 will work with stockish camber and a 285, a +45 offset is what you need for 2.5 deg camber and +40 offset is what you need for 3.5 deg negative camber.

20yr old standby 18x10 +50 sizing with 7.5" backspace could be run on 100% stock FD.

7.75" backspace like on my 18x11 +45 require camber (within stock adjustment limits), coilovers with the industry standard 2.5" diameter springs and if you try to run much rear toe in you would need aftermarket trailing arms as well.

No issues up front with 18z11 +45 and 295 ventus TD or R888 - except I had to have my Tripoint speedway style swaybar tube shortened 1/2" so the tires wouldnt hit the swaybar arms at full lock.

Another member on here with CCW 18x11 +45 (7.75" backspace if you want to bury head in sand and ignore the importance of offset like CCW owner) reported no issues turning full lock with stock swaybar.

 

Ok, thanks for the clarification.

 

As an alternative one piece forged wheel option I did request Titan 7 to produce an 18x10 +50 setup for the FD to run 285/30/18.

It weighs 19lbs FYI. I have 2 sets available on the shipment coming in a month or less approx.

This was based off the "maxcooper" ccw fitment from decades back which was the 10J +52 setup.

They go for $2100 plus shipping plus centercaps.




Thanks, Rishie

 

Very nice set-up. Damn those are light!

18x10 +50 is the perfect max fitment size for stock (non fender rolled, non crazy camber) FD.

There is a reason it is and has been the classic max (and Max LOL) fitment for the FD for over 20 years.

 

My CCWs are 17x 10 with a +48 offset. Stock, unrolled fenders and 255/40 Azenis squared up. I am on coil overs, but there's plenty of room behind them so I don't think stock suspension would be an issue.

lol just some worthless info about the wrong sized wheels. Here's a pic anyway.

 

Is this a limited time thing, or will they continue to sell them?

 

It all depends on the demand for the product. Currently we're doing the minimum orders for what the factory requires. I have one set available on the inbound shipment. After that it might be 3 months before another 5 sets come in.

 

CCW Classics 18x10 all 4 corners with 50mm offset. I run 285/30 Hoosiers, which are wide for the spec, on the track.
Rolled fender lips. Rear trailing arm is pushed fully inboard with spacers. I run Pettit's long track alignment settings. Ride height IIRC is 25" to the top of the fender arch in the front. No rake. No rubbing on the track except for at the little bump at the bottom of Hogpen at VIR.
Regards,
Crispy

 

I have search but can’t find any real info. Anyone running a 315 on the rear with a roll and pull. I have been running 18x11 with 285 square. But I need more tire for the rear at my power level. The 285’s just don’t work.

 

I can only give you an approximation based on an appropriate wheel width and backspacing measurement with aftermarket trailing arms. I say an 11.5" wide wheel is most appropriate and if 10 +50 is near max backspacing then we need to push it out 18mm from that in theory. The fact that the tire diameter is increasing makes my calculation very "theoretical" so 11.5" +30 let's say. If we convert this to an 11" wheel I'd say +25 since the tire will still bulge a little. Hope this provides some guidance for you.

- Rishie

 

I'm running 315/35-17 tires on 17X11+50 wheels if that helps any.

 

Well there you go DK saves the day. Evidently there's enough room to squeeze it if you opt for the same tire diameter with a 315/30/18.