Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

FD Brakes

the primary handicap is lack of rotor mass.

the chassis has such speed capability on a road course that if driven at 10/10ths the brakes will disappear in 2 laps. the calipers are not the problem.

drilling, ducting and/or cryo-ing them will not solve the problem. will it help a bit? sure.

the bottom line is if you are really going fast you will run out of OE brakes in very short order.

it is NOT a caliper issue. and, BTW, a 6 piston front might look cool but it better be sized (piston area) properly in relation to the rear or you will probably be moving back your braking point.

the RacingBrake 4 corner package remains excellent.

of course there are other options.... be very careful w a 4 piston rear as it is easy to get too much rear piston area V the front.

adjustable brake bias should be on all serious track FDs and works fine for dual purpose. full fuel tank V low fuel, for instance, requires a different bias.

howard

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

Brief Sidebar:

BTCC

i assume people on this thread are road race fans.

i am.

i just want to post a shout out for the British Touring Car Championship on SPEED.

awesome fender to fender very competitive highly prepped racing on really interesting tracks. if i get to come back in another life i will want to be driving in the series.

i could go on and on about the BTCC.

howard

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

All the serious race FDs in SCCA ITE (we have 3) run ABS using the OEM bias.

Smokey The Talon

iTrader: (33)

is that by choice or do the rules stipulate it? I'd also be interested to know what they run for rotors and calipers if you don't mind sharing that. Thanks.

Metan

hi,
I´have question for you,
this is my actual setup, Superpro bushing in front, diff, complete rear, stock sway bar, Megan racing toe links and some adjustable KYB suspension with (maybe) stock springs.
some picture:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
http://imageshack.us/a/img580/9156/img2401ai.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img26/8434/img2534du.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img221/4695/img2582f.jpg

actually car is stiff as hell. bouncing on the bumpy road. Only on nice road is perfect.

Now i have chance to get stock R1 (1995) suspension with stock springs.
my question is, IT IS THE RIGHT MOVE? to get my car more street usable

OR

or is it a only consequence of changes (bushing and others)

thanks for your time.
metan

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Not rules.

Actually, I need to correct myself. They used to all run aBS. Now only 1 of the 3 run ABS.
https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tec...ar-kit-917548/


Oddly enough, two of them run Brembo front calipers. Rear setup varies.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

That is why i got rid of my SuperPro poly bushings and went back to stock. The bushings make a huge difference on rough roads. The poly bushings are kinda cool on track as the handling is more direct since there is less tolerance and compression in the bushing material. However, on rough roads they stiffen the car too much for me.

The toe links won't make a difference in bounciness.

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

Hello Metan,

i have always maintained that only two sets of bushings should be swapped on the FD.

the Diff and front of the lower link. both are large, highly compliant and screw up major suspension action... the diff promotes axle bounce and general instability and the front of the lower link greatly influences toe change on accel and decel.

the other stock bushings are not generally an issue as far as degradation and i would not swap them.

getting back to your situation...

first off, are you running 30 psi front and 27 rear set cold?

if you have the stock springs and are getting lockup over bumps it must be a function of your shock settings. throw on a set of stock shocks and see what happens.

as to the "R1, R2" suspension... it uses the same springs as the non R1 but has a set of unfortunately designed shocks. i used to have a shock dyno and have dynoed them and they... well let me say i greatly prefer others.

i still maintain that one of the best overall setups is stock shocks w Eibach Pro Kit springs. the stock shocks work very well w the aftermarket springs which are up approx 30% from stock.

stock is 263 fr 195 rear.............5 KG/3 Kg
Eibach is 350 fr 255 rear................6.5 Kg/4 Kg

unless you are a serious track guy and plan to run track tires the Eibachs are really super.

as gracer7 says, your toe links are not an issue.

howard

fd3s400438

Howard I would like to comment that after changing the exact ones you said ( poly bushes ) I noticed that the rear end tends to be welded to the road as if it became 4WD. I also noticed a massive increase in rear traction when accelerating from a standing start or even from 40 miles flat out in second gear

I am still using track setup for the road ( i am lazy and could not bother changing it ) ( -1.7 rear and -2.3 front )

I must admit the the front feel is very live and it tends to read every single road detail but the overall feel is perfect

To cut a long story short the bushes you advised me made a HUGE difference in rear traction even with a massive negative rear camber ( always refering to road driving )

I did a standing start quorter mile with a second person as well in the car , massive doqnforce from the rear wing etc and the same track tyres I used a few days back under 11.5 sec with 130mph + exit speed with only 1.3 bar on a T04E. This was due to massive traction improvement in 1st and 2nd gear. In 2nd I had NO wheel spin what so ever...

Metan

Howard
thanks a lot..

next week I´ll swap to stock shocks with spring (from 1995 model) and see what happen.

on tires... yes I know, you recommended 30 psi front and 27 rear
(I don´t know why I am find this thread so late)
now I rode with 30.5 psi all four with 17x8 Wolk and 225x45 Bridgestone Re070
Now we have snow everywhere, so in the spring, I am definitely sets the right pressure!

btw, great thread
lots of useful information

Metan

after removing the rear shock I found written R2 on Bound stopper

there is - FD01 28 110A R2 3
the 28 110A is part number of the Bound stopper, (A or C is revisions) but what the R2 3 is? It is possible that it is a R2 shocks ? does anyone know how they look?

It could possibly explain the rigidity ...

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

Valentine's Day will be here shortly so i have a Valentine's Day gift for your FD.

well not a gift but an FYI

there is a brand new set of Eibach Pro Kit springs for sale in the classifieds. i believe, but am not certain, that they don't make them anymore.

IMHO, this is the single best mod for the dual purpose FD. you don't need diff shocks, just bolt them on and re-adjust the camber and hang on.

somebody grab them.

hc

(no affiliation w the seller BTW)

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

Valentine's Day will be here shortly so i have a Valentine's Day gift for your FD.

well not a gift but an FYI

there is a brand new set of Eibach Pro Kit springs for sale in the classifieds. i believe, but am not certain, that they don't make them anymore.

IMHO, this is the single best mod for the dual purpose FD. you don't need diff shocks, just bolt them on and re-adjust the camber and hang on.

somebody grab them.

hc

(no affiliation w the seller BTW)

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

I love this thread .. every time I start on it again I forget about the world around me this kind of gets me in trouble specially since I'm supposed to be working .

Now if You could Recheck this post Howard I would be infinitely Thankful as well ..

seems to be that the tire I have seems to like more PSI then what I normally would Think , Due to my Lack O pyrometer ( decided to get one after today's reading )

there seems to be a general consensus that on my summer street tires ( hankook R-s3's ) running a higher PSI then normally would be thought ideal is the way to go .

Would those 30/27 PSI ratios be for R Comp tires ? or just a general starting point . I know I'm blind without the pyrometer now . But what do you think could be the cause that most people generally think or have come to the consensus that running 40 psi is better then running 30/27

Metan

since I have the stock shock instead the R1, I love the car... not bouncy ride at all.
but for the next touch, I am ready to buy some lowering spring and since I know the Eibach is out of production. I search other coil springs.

I know, there is new Eibach Pro Kit in sale section but the price with the postage to Europe its just too much.

so the Tein S is fine but too low
the Tein H tech has really bad lowering, only 18mm on the rear
H&R looks fine but progressive settings is not good
Espelir ASD is like Tein, too low Front 35 and Rear 34mm
and last my tip is Racing beat but again, not the same lowering...

so Howard, if you must choose between the others, what you get?
thanks

Gunnytron

Are the Eibach Pro Kit springs actually available anymore?

BizarroTerl

Just in the ad. Some sites still list them, but they can't get them as they've been out of production for a while.

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

springs are pretty resilient , Maybe try looking for a set from someone who went to Coilovers from them , USed springs will be cheaper lol.

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

"springs are pretty resilient , Maybe try looking for a set from someone who went to Coilovers"

absolutely.

good springs do not lose their rate. Eibachs are VERY high quality springs and the single difference between new and used is their visual appearance.

Howard

Gunnytron

Thanks. i will keep an eye open.

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

Pyro Meter Question!

Ok so I'm looking into getting myself a pyrometer But The ones I find seem to be for EGT they come with a probe?

is this the same you can use for the tires? or is there a specific one for tires?

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

Nevermind this I found the Tire ones .

But I do have a question reguarding the Pyrometer , I have a general understanding of how it works and what should be done given certain conditions , BUT

What about changing conditions ? , ifi ts a course you always go to . yeah great .

But what about in auto-x I've seen people use the pyros at auto-x and I never paid much mind to it .

BUT now i'm much more interested in it .

But the thought of this came up , all auto-x courses are different some have many right turns , some have many left turns . some have about equal number .

if I adjust camber based on the readings I got at one auto-x with many right turns , But then the next auto-x is left turn heavy wouldnt it work against me ?

how would I go about getting a neutral camber setting ?

Metan

hi,
i found some maybe new stuff from Tein..
this type of S-Tech SKM32-AVB00
Lowers -20mm on the front, and -25mm on the rear and 7.8 / 5.8
Mazda RX7 FD3S Tein S Tech Lowering Springs SKM32-AVB00 Only £193.39


If I am not wrong, this is the old model? SKM50-AUB00
Lowers -36mm on the front, and -33mm on the rear and 7.8 / 5.8
Tein S.Tech Springs Mazda RX7 FD3S 93-96


maybe we have new true eibach successor

AUS-FD3S

Just read the first page, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.

Metan

I need re set my wheel aligment and i don´t know what is better. I have 17x8 with stock shocks and springs.

is this your numbers ok with my stock setup? you said 1.2 front and rear camber

or i should use pettit Street / long track event recomendation
front camber 1.9 and rear 0,5. Zero rear thrust angle

I use my FD for spirited driving behind the city and sometimes (1-2 per year) track day at Brno circuit.

thanks