Suspension/Wheels/Tires/Brakes

HOW TO: Remove/Replace Suspension Bushings

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Old 05-13-07, 11:39 AM
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What direction to press out the front lower arm???
Old 05-13-07, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by DamonB
Links to pictures updated and thread copied once again into the archive.
Now you get to fix the links to the pictures that were already attached to the thread.

Originally Posted by TonyG2
What direction to press out the front lower arm???
From the inside out.
Old 05-13-07, 07:09 PM
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Thanks JimLab...got it.
I was wondering if you knew of a place to get a rear lower arm bushing?? I removed mine, and then realized it was part of my Delrin kit.
Old 05-13-07, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyG2
I was wondering if you knew of a place to get a rear lower arm bushing?? I removed mine, and then realized it was part of my Delrin kit.
The inner damper bushing? It's not replaced by any of the available kits and has to stay OEM. Give Ray Crowe a call.

Ray Crowe
Parts Manager
Malloy Mazda
(888) 533-3400
Old 05-14-07, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jimlab
The inner damper bushing? It's not replaced by any of the available kits and has to stay OEM. Give Ray Crowe a call.

Ray Crowe
Parts Manager
Malloy Mazda
(888) 533-3400
Awww jim whats up...cant you whip a couple up for me
Why arent they avaliable??
Old 05-14-07, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyG2
Why arent they avaliable??
The range of motion requires a pillow bushing.
Old 05-18-07, 09:04 AM
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Question about trailing arms/bushings.

I have new bushings from Mazdacomp. They have white dot on a rubber. Does it indicate mounting position?

Are those arms simmetrical? Do they differ left/right? I noticed that bigger rubber lip on bushing faces outside of a car.
Old 05-18-07, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by katit
Question about trailing arms/bushings.

I have new bushings from Mazdacomp. They have white dot on a rubber. Does it indicate mounting position?
Unless they came with specific instructions, no, not according to the shop manual (~75MB download).

The bottom of page R-38 shows removal and replacement of the "bushing". Although they don't specify it as the trailing link, you can tell by the shape of the arm in the pictures.

Are those arms symmetrical?
Yes. The trailing links are listed as PN FD15-28-50X or PN FD16-28-50X, and the only difference is whether you have an R-model ("hard" suspension) or not ("normal" suspension). You can install them on either side of the car.
Old 05-18-07, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jimlab
The trailing links are listed as PN FD15-28-50X or PN FD16-28-50X, and the only difference is whether you have an R-model ("hard" suspension) or not ("normal" suspension). You can install them on either side of the car.
Jim, what's the difference between the "hard" and "normal" trailing arms? From talking to Ray Crowe, I know Mazda does not offer the trailing arm bushings separately - you have to buy the whole arm to get a new OEM bushing. Is the bushing the only difference between the two parts?

Also, I installed mine with the "lip" towards the center of the car. Is that the correct orientation? The FSM doesn't specify which direction it should face, but the drawing sorta looks like the lip goes towards the outside of the car, not the center. I wonder what difference it makes, if any, because the bushing appears to be symmetrical otherwise.
Old 05-18-07, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by DigDug
Jim, what's the difference between the "hard" and "normal" trailing arms? From talking to Ray Crowe, I know Mazda does not offer the trailing arm bushings separately - you have to buy the whole arm to get a new OEM bushing. Is the bushing the only difference between the two parts?
Yes, "hard" = R1/R2.

Also, I installed mine with the "lip" towards the center of the car. Is that the correct orientation? The FSM doesn't specify which direction it should face, but the drawing sorta looks like the lip goes towards the outside of the car, not the center. I wonder what difference it makes, if any...
None. If it were directional, they'd tell you. They do everywhere else in the manual.

Attached Thumbnails HOW TO: Remove/Replace Suspension Bushings-r-38.jpg  
Old 05-19-07, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by DigDug
Jim, what's the difference between the "hard" and "normal" trailing arms? From talking to Ray Crowe, I know Mazda does not offer the trailing arm bushings separately - you have to buy the whole arm to get a new OEM bushing. Is the bushing the only difference between the two parts?
Yes, Mazda don't sell those bushings separately. I bought Mazda Speed bushings $110 for the pair from CorkSport a month ago. Ray said he can't get MazdaSpeed parts.

When I took my trailing arms out - lip were facing outside of the car. I will put it back that way also it doesn't seem to make any difference.
Old 05-19-07, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jimlab
The inner damper bushing? It's not replaced by any of the available kits and has to stay OEM. Give Ray Crowe a call.

Ray Crowe
Parts Manager
Malloy Mazda
(888) 533-3400
Does Mazdaspeed make a bushing??
Old 05-19-07, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyG2
Does Mazdaspeed make a bushing??
No, not to my knowledge. That's not one of the bushings that needs improvement, and it's the same part for all models.
Old 05-20-07, 01:14 PM
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Mazdaspeed does make a damper bushing. Part # F128-28-460. I only went with MS for the trailing arm bushings.

Last edited by DigDug; 05-20-07 at 01:20 PM.
Old 05-21-07, 11:52 AM
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Mazda Motorsports members can buy slightly firmer than stock trailing arm bushings. The part number is available, I know I've listed it here on this site several times.
Old 05-30-07, 03:07 PM
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I bought them from Corksport for $110
Old 11-01-08, 11:38 PM
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bump.......

would using a 12ton hydraulic press be sufficient or should i go with the 20ton?
Old 11-01-08, 11:45 PM
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12 ton is good enough
Old 11-05-08, 03:30 PM
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Great resource for bushing work!
Old 11-17-08, 12:31 PM
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I used a 6.5 ton non-hydrolic arbor press to do my fronts. So far so good.
Old 12-19-21, 06:33 PM
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Alternative way to press out upper control arm bushings

Originally Posted by jimlab
Here's a close-up from the other side. As you can see, I'm using the 1/2" drive Pittsburgh 32mm socket for these bushings.

By holding the control arm with one hand (which isn't going anywhere until pressure is released) and working the bottle jack with the other, you eliminate the damage that could be caused to the suspension component when the bushing pops free.

These bushings are a very tight fit and will suddenly come loose with a loud pop after seemingly going nowhere. Take it slow and easy and apply steady pressure to them until they pop. The bar being pushed on stays right on top of the socket and nothing came flying off the press in all four I did last week, but use proper safety precautions and wear a bulletproof vest anyway if you try this at home.

I couldn’t get my bushings out with a 12 ton press using this method, so I thought I’d show you what worked for me… I used a hole saw to cut the rubber portion out of one of the bushings, and then pressed each one out linearly.


This thread has been incredibly helpful, so I just wanted to do my part to add to it. Thanks!
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