Well, I finally got arnd to installing my MazdaMotorSports SS lines, changed the fluid, put in SpeedBleeders, installed the Hawk Pads and epoxy painted my calipers yesterday!!!!! Taking my time w/ lunch and dinner breaks Id say I was out there for about 8 hrs.

I test drove the car today and so far I LOVE these new pads. Even tho the pads I took off the fronts had plenty of meat to them the car just didnt seem to have that same bite I remember my friends 911 having. A different story now, it definitely has ALOT more stopping power than before.

Can someone tell me if there is a recommended break in?

Also if anyone plans on installing these brake lines drop me a PM I have a tip for ya that will save you alot of aggravation trying to get these f'ckers to seat properly in the hex head bracket.

 

yeah good stopping power but they squeak and dust like hell. i don't know about a break in. it said something about them (and all brake pads) needing to be burnished, but I had mine done at a shop so...

 

...hmmm maybe this is why I squeak (didn't do this):

Intermittent brake squeals can sometimes be corrected by "burnishing" the brakes. Burnishing is a process where the vehicle is driven to about 50 kph and then braked very hard to a stop. Let the brakes cool for a couple minutes and repeat the complete procedure about ten times. The burnishing process cleans the surface of the rotor, heats the surface of the pads to remove any glazed build-up, and transfers some of the pad material onto the surface of the rotor for higher friction between the pad and rotor. Obviously, for safety reasons, burnishing the brakes must be done where there is no other traffic.

http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/at_001114.htm

 

HP+'s dust like a **** and unfortunately squeak as well. This is their trademark....... There is a trade off for increased braking power but the small hassle is worth it.

The HP+'s are awesome for street/autoX.... I have them also with braided s/s lines and Motul brake fluid on my 2nd gen.

-GNX7

 

Pulled off of Hawks site:


What procedure does Hawk Performance recommend for burnishing brake pads for racing?

All brake pads have to be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against. Even though Hawk Performance burnishes the pads in the factory, a transfer film must be generated at the pad and rotor interface for optimal performance. Whether it is new or used rotors, you must follow the bed-in steps listed below to maximize brake performance. Step 1. Seal all brake ducts. Step 2. Slowly engage brakes 6 to 8 times at medium speeds Do not drag brakes or come to a complete stop. Step 3. Increase speeds to simulate race conditions; allow 6 to 8 high pressure (about 500 psi) snubs at racing speeds. Total engagements for Step 2 and Step 3 should be a maximum of 15 to 20. Step 4. Remove brake duct seals. Allow the system to cool for about 15 minutes. Do not engage brakes while car is parked during cool down period. Your Rotors and Hawk Performance Pads are now ready for race! Do not sand or grind the brake pads or rotors after this burnishing procedure has been completed

 

The shop that put my HP+'s on didn't call it burnishing, but they gave me the same assignment for breaking in the pads that weaklink quoted. I did that and my brakes almost never squeak, and if they do, maybe the tinest squeal @ about 2-3 mph under slight breaking.

They still dust like hell thought!!!

K

 

Took the car out for a drive tonight, OMG this thing stops like crazy now! The initial bite for a split sec is the same but the harder you push the harder it stops.
I dunno maybe it was a combonation of everythng being done. Maybe the fluid was the same crap it came w/ when it rolled onto our soil. Who knows?
Quick ?, my tires locked up for a sec before ABS kicked in, is that normal?

 

yeah, that's fine. It has to figure out that they've locked up before doing anything about it.

 

My brake pads had been gone for quite a while. In my search for replacements, I decided to go with Hawk HP+ pads. Mainly because I would be seeing AutoX and Road Courses often while still retaining streetable car.

I am very satiisfied with these brake pads. Therefore, I will do a little product review.

-------------------------
(info from Hawk's website)
HP PLUS - High Performance Street PLUS Race Worthy

Hawk Performance HP PLUS compound can take the heat at the Track and get you home safely without having to change your brake pads in and out. This compound was designed for the serious street and autocross enthusiast. Warning! Due to the dramatic friction levels produced by this product to achieve "race-level" braking; rotor wear, noise, dust, and pad wear may be increased.

Features

Extremely high friction output

Race worthy for autocross

Race worthy for club racing events

Elevated temperature resistance
-----------------------

As to Hawk's "warnings" for these pads. The only things I have noticed from their list, is the increased brake dust. Rotor wear seems to be the same as with any other brake pad. The increase noise is only audible when the brakes are completely cold (after sitting over night)

Bedding these pads in is an ordeal!!
The process for bedding brake pads in, involves hard braking until you experience brake fade, then allowing the brakes to cool down completely.

Let me tell you that these pads require some serious repetative braking to get them hot enough to fade! I must have done over twenty 60-0mph hard stops. (on the verge of locking the brakes up) Luckily, it was 4am and on a tollway when I performed the bed-in process.

These pads dramatically increase stopping power over stock pads (what i had before). 60-0 mph stopping time is almost non-existent and these pads resist heat very well. Overall, they provide unreal stopping power from cold to red hot. I recommend them to anyone who plans to see road courses or enjoys the ability to stop on a dime, REPEATEDLY.

~ Van sema

 

The HP+ do give great feel if you can live with the downsides.

They will fade under heavy usage (track), but they don't go away as much as HPS or other street pads. I faded them and stayed out on the track by just giving myself more room to stop and standing on the pedal. They kept fading on a track that has two back-to-back stops from 120+ MPH, but they still worked well enough that I could keep running.

-Max

 

Well, they are just a tougher street pad. My main objective was to get a pad that would work well on the street, and not take a **** after one lap on a road course. Also, a rotor friendly pad.

 

I've got HP+ pads on my R1.

Great pad, works very well for auto-xing.

I do get TONS of dust which I don't like. I don't have any significant squeaking other than an occasional squeak at very low speeds, maybe ~5mph.

Jeff

 

Same here TurboJeff ... I notice it when i'm going slow in the parking garage.

The dust isn't that much trouble ... my chrome stockers just look like the un-polished stockers most of the time. Just gives me more motivation to wash my car.