Rotas are know to break, type Rota into google

 

I already did my research on them. They had a problem with the older "attack" models about 4 or 5 years ago. They had a bad batch of them, and gave everyone free replacements. I haven't found any recent (2008-2009) updates of people complaining of their quality. A lot of people use Rota wheels, and a lot of people race them without any issues. If you type "Enkei cracked wheel" or "Motegi cracked wheel" in google, you will also find a lot of people who have had problems with them.

I knew a guy from my old job that had a new Mazda 3 with stock rims, and one day he lost control and went off the road and ran into a ditch and bent his stock rims. Any rim will bend under extreme circumstances. Everybody will have their own opinion. I even read about/seen pictures of people cracking and bending the Motegi Traklites, and the Enkei RPF1's which are high priced forged aluminum wheels.

In my opinion: Buying wheels from companies like: Drag, XXR, and Sportmax are kinda like buying shoes at Payless. You get what you pay for.

Buying wheels from 5 Zigen, Rota, and Tenzo R, is kinda like buying shoes from Target, Kmart or JCPennies. Good quality, but could be better.

Buying wheels from Volk Racing, Work, and Racing Hart, is like buying shoes from Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Prada. They cost a lot more for a good reason, they're the best quality money has to offer.

Like when Xbox 1 first came out, it had a LOT of problems with overheating, and Microsoft got a bad Rep, and to this day people still think all Xbox's are poor quality crap. Mine never had any overheating problems and I bought it when they first came out, and I abused the hell out of it. Every company at one time or another will sell a "bad batch of products, that must be recalled. Sorry for the long post, just trying to make a point

 

According to the FD wheel and tire chart... If I go with a 17X8.5'' rim in the front and rear, and 245/40/17 tires all around, with a +40 offset up front, and a +25 offset in the rear, I will have in the front 0.32'' clearance before the tire hits the fender, and in the rear, i'd have 0.23'' clearance.

With this set up, I won't be able to rotate my tires anymore, but it will look somewhat flush all around without any body modifications or use of spacers. What you guys opinions on staggering tires/rims for cosmetic purposes on a daily driver, is it worth it?

 

Rotas are all show, no go. The D2 is a copy of the SSR Professor SP1 with some Meister ques mixed in.

Their sizes and offsets suck for sports cars. You need WIDTH (I.E: 17 x 9 all around or 17 x 9/17 x 10).

5zigen, and enkei have much better sizes, and casting methods than the chinese/philipino wheels.

 

I was looking at some used Volk Racing Group AV's, with 17X8 +45 front, and 17X9 +45 rear. I would kinda like everything to be flush without having to roll the fenders, or at least close to flush. Would I be able to use an extra wide tire in the rear to fill the fender wells nicely to get everything flush without using spacers?

 

If you want a flush look, you will have to roll the fenders unless you have the car sitting like a 4x4.

 

well what I mean is I want to get as close to flush as possible without having to roll the fenders or add spacers. What size rims and tires do you have in the front and rear Mahjik? I'm sure iv'e seen pics of FD's with large aftermarket rims that have the illusion to be flush, but are actually maby .25'' from hitting the fender, and that's the look i'm going for. No fender rolling was required.

 

IMO, if you want aftermarket wheels which are wider and a lower offset than the OEM wheels, you need to roll at least the front fenders. The wheels I'm currently using are 17x9 +43 all around with 255's. That required a front fender roll.

 

I don't believe you used spacers for the rear correct? because that looks good there in my opinion.

 

Nope, no spacers.

 

Ok I found some wheels and have been using some of the calculators in this thread. The wheels are 18 x 9 +36 front and 18 x 10 +43 rear. It looks like the rears will fit no problems. The lazy man calculator shows the fronts will fit, but the FD wheel and tire sizing excel sheet says no with a -0.09 outside clearance.

So which do I believe? Also if they won't fit it is possible to mill the mounting flange down slightly to make them fit? I was planning on running a 255 front but could go 245 if that helps. Fender roll is also an option. Stock suspension.

 

If the lazy calc says it will fit then it should fit since it is based off of setups that people have reported using. I would not even think about machining the hub. did you make sure to select the stock suspension option?

 

Yeah i made sure all the settings where correct. The shop said i can bring the car and test fit them so thats good, not sure how much help it will be without tires mounted though.

 

The front won't fit. You're off by 10mm to run the tire size you want to run.

18x9 +45 to +50 is the optimal range for a 255 width on front of FD.

The 18x10 will likely rub if you run a 275/35/18 with proper alignment. But we're talking only a few mm, it might it might not.

Rishie

 

So would a 245 fit? Thats 10 mm right there. I've seen people fit 285's out back and it's only 2 mm difference. From + 43 to + 45. I think the rear will be fine. I'll probably see about a 245 and a fender roll for the front. When doing a fender roll can they add a slight flare?

 

So here's the thing.

255 vs 245 is a 10mm difference but only half of that difference will be seen by the "front spacing". Thereby making only a 5mm difference.

Yes a fender roll/pull will resolve this problem but you will likely loose the fender liner unless you modify it's mounting points. PLEASE COMPRISE A PLAN FOR THIS BEFORE ROLLING THE FENDER. ONCE THE MOUNTING TABS ARE ROLLED BACK YOU WILL HAVE A DIFFICULT TIME ATTACHING THE FENDER LINER BACK TO THEM.

One option is to use ZIPTIE AND A SILICONE HOSE/VACCUUM LINE, run the ziptie through the vaccuum line and then attach to the fender liner so that the ziptie will not cut through the plastic fender liner.

Rishie

 

Alright thanks. Im sure i'll come up with something. Does that mean a slight flare can be done with a fender roll also?

 

Read below to see what setups this tool is based off of:

I seem to remember that I never finished the tire calculation feature so this tool does not adequately compensate for tire variations (ex: tire that is slightly wide for rim). Rishie is the man when it comes to wheels so consider his word gospel.

Yes, the fenders can be rolled and pulled, but you'll need a pro to do the pulling.

 

Rishie,

Do you have any pictures of have a modified fender liner rig looks like?

Trying to fit a 42ET 17x9, Koni/GC at full height, -2 camber, and 295/35/17.

I almost killed my fender going in the driveway, rubbing. Also, in addition to a fender roll, I think I will need to remove (or seriously hack) the fender liner. It rubbed the fender liner in the front of the well at right turn orientation. Also rubbed on the outer most fender liner in the rear of the fender well at left turn orientation.

In short. Doesn't fit. Going to try with a roll. Anyone have any fender liner recommendations?

 

Most people with wide front wheels have to ditch the fender liners entirely. You might try removing the liners, cover any opening with sheets of plastic of metal and then hitting the well with some bed liner.

 

What do I do about the oil cooler air flow without a liner????

 

I run rotas (4 sets) on track, autox, and manhattan pothole ridden streets (like a madman occasionally). Never once bent or broke a rota. Bent an RPF1 Enkie tho.

 

Now I know you guys probably dont wanna hear this question about "Will these fit" AGAIN but here goes. I already checked the FD tire and wheel chart and accord to that, they will fit with about .16'' on the outside without rolling the fenders. The rim for the front is a 18X8.5 +36, and tire size will be 235/40/18. The most important question im asking, is... will the tire rub the inner plastic fender part if I go over a hard bump? I also have Tokico Illumina adjustable shocks, and eibach Prokit lowering springs.

 

Hey all,
Sorry for the total NOOOOBBBBBBB question. I have a set of wheels on the way and im looking for a good recommendation for tire sizes. The wheels are 18X7.5 +42 offset and 18X8.5 +35 offset. Im also looking for a good recommendation for tires, it is my weeked and road racing car.
Thanks,

 

Better Street Performance & Track Capable:
Dunlop Z1 Star Spec
Kumho XS
Bridgestone RE11R
Toyo R1R
Yokohama AD08 or AD07
Falkin Azenis RT615
Hankook RS3

Better Track Performance & Tolerable on the Street (including wet/rain):
Toyo R888
Nitto NT01
Yokohama A048

Good luck. If it was me, I'd run the Dunlop (and I do).