FC autocross camber help
11-21-11, 09:47 PM
#1
FC autocross camber help
So I don't post here much, but hopefully you guys can help me out.
I've autocrossed the last two years, in a '04 Rx8 and a '11 WRX. Next year, my wife and I are looking to co-drive our newly acquired 89 Rx7 vert. This will be my first time modifying a car to race, or racing a modified car. I started off by performing almost all maintenance items including fluids, belts, and plugs. I still need to redo the brakes before next year. I also bought some used 16"Rays/Volk lightweight aluminum rims (no tires yet). Next I installed a used set of KYB AGX struts with Tanabe GF210 springs.
Obviously the car has negative camber now, but from what I'm reading, this is optimal for autocross. Obviously I will need to run tire temperature tests to get the optimal camber, but until I can get to the track next year that will be hard to do. Do any of you have SUGGESTED camber settings that I should start with? I can measure what my camber currently is if anyone wants to know.
I've autocrossed the last two years, in a '04 Rx8 and a '11 WRX. Next year, my wife and I are looking to co-drive our newly acquired 89 Rx7 vert. This will be my first time modifying a car to race, or racing a modified car. I started off by performing almost all maintenance items including fluids, belts, and plugs. I still need to redo the brakes before next year. I also bought some used 16"Rays/Volk lightweight aluminum rims (no tires yet). Next I installed a used set of KYB AGX struts with Tanabe GF210 springs.
Obviously the car has negative camber now, but from what I'm reading, this is optimal for autocross. Obviously I will need to run tire temperature tests to get the optimal camber, but until I can get to the track next year that will be hard to do. Do any of you have SUGGESTED camber settings that I should start with? I can measure what my camber currently is if anyone wants to know.
11-23-11, 11:06 AM
#2
Sounds like a fun project! See if there is a certain class you want to run in and limits your mod's to those. I'd say you are on a good track and would enjoy taking the car out in stock-ish form to get a baseline feel for the car. Then decide on what problems need to be fixed.
Using stock shock mounts, you shouldn't have much front camber. There is no significant stock adjustment for front camber. Usually, you want -2.0~3 degrees of front camber which requires camber plates and, possibly, coilover springs. Negative camber in the rear is normal after lowering the car. I'd suggest -1.0 in the rear as well as adding the DTSS eliminator bushings. Also, zero toe front and rear will liven up the chassis a bit.
Using stock shock mounts, you shouldn't have much front camber. There is no significant stock adjustment for front camber. Usually, you want -2.0~3 degrees of front camber which requires camber plates and, possibly, coilover springs. Negative camber in the rear is normal after lowering the car. I'd suggest -1.0 in the rear as well as adding the DTSS eliminator bushings. Also, zero toe front and rear will liven up the chassis a bit.
11-23-11, 01:06 PM
#3
Sounds like a fun project! See if there is a certain class you want to run in and limits your mod's to those. I'd say you are on a good track and would enjoy taking the car out in stock-ish form to get a baseline feel for the car. Then decide on what problems need to be fixed.
Using stock shock mounts, you shouldn't have much front camber. There is no significant stock adjustment for front camber. Usually, you want -2.0~3 degrees of front camber which requires camber plates and, possibly, coilover springs. Negative camber in the rear is normal after lowering the car. I'd suggest -1.0 in the rear as well as adding the DTSS eliminator bushings. Also, zero toe front and rear will liven up the chassis a bit.
Using stock shock mounts, you shouldn't have much front camber. There is no significant stock adjustment for front camber. Usually, you want -2.0~3 degrees of front camber which requires camber plates and, possibly, coilover springs. Negative camber in the rear is normal after lowering the car. I'd suggest -1.0 in the rear as well as adding the DTSS eliminator bushings. Also, zero toe front and rear will liven up the chassis a bit.
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