slomo85

iTrader: (8)

Well, I have had a 1991 N/A rx7 for about a year and a half now. It has some really old shocks and stock struts, and bald tires. I bought it in the winter. Not good circumstances ehh? Well after a few close, adrenaline pumping, calls, I decided to replace the bald tires with some all season tires. And wow, what a difference. Last summer was a fun time to drive. I'm only 19, and glad to have this unique, fun car. But it turned into a little bit of an addiction.

Basically what happened is I got home from boot camp and started working on it. The front rotors are warped so it jumps a little, so this warrents a little bit of an overhaul, plus I want to make this car even better to drive. I am not really concerened with having a "cushy boat" type of ride. But I really don't know what I want. I do want to use it at some tracks whenever I get the chance as well.

I want to get all new slotted(not cross drilled) rotors, and pads, and see what I can do about wheel bearings/bushings and


(main lounge is sucured, I'll be back...later)

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

Wow I haven't seen that [H]ardOCP symbol in a few years. I remember when they used to overclock Pentium II's. 1 GHz seemed so fast back then. A bone stock non-turbo RX-7 is an awesome car for a 19-year-old; great choice there.


Remember that the brakes and suspension components are systems. The rotor is only part of the picture, I would personally go with regular (not slotted) rotors if it's more than a $20 price difference, put the money into better brake fluid or pads. You are replacing the pads, right? Unevenly worn pads can cause rotors to warp more easily, it's got something to do with deposits or inconsistent temperatures I believe. For the replacement pads, remember that most 'race' pads will not work as well unless they are heated up. You're probably best off with stock pads, unless you're wearing a set of stockers out in a single track day.

New struts will be very helpful, I've heard that KYB AGX's have a great warranty. Tokico's and Koni's also have good reputations, but they will be more expensive.

After that, it's time to start worrying about better tires, then stiffer springs and maybe some swaybars. They say racing is an addiction, best cured by poverty. Don't let yourself become a victim, try to save at least $100 / month in a savings account and don't touch it ever. You'll be glad you did.


Good luck,
-s-

Tierce

if you are overhauling the brakes, go and inspect your brake lines too. SS ones don't cost all that much more than a new set of OEM ones. as scotty said, the blank OEM rotors work great, if you want to feel like you've got more bite, alot of people like the hawk hps pads. they too are not that expensive compared to OEM pads.

the KYB AGX's he mentions are great shocks. i like them alot. great bang for the buck. i need to figure out what kind of springs i want now. i have been eyeballing the Ground Control Coil-over setup for awhile now though.

alberto_mg

get some regular replacement rotors. if you don't have blinging wheels, it ain't worth the expense to just look cool.

i recommend AXXIS metallic pads or EBC greens. had them both on my GTU and TurboII. they don't create as much dust as factory pads.

braided brake lines are nice, but i never noticed a big difference in using them assuming the system is already bled and the brake fluid is new. which is another thing you should do - bleed brakes and get as much of the old fluid out as you can.

the KYBs work well on those cars. if you are on a budget, you can get someone's stock Turbo II springs for a little more stiffness.

and keep saving your money. cars are nice to have, but $$ is better.

slomo85

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for waiting, anyways...

I was reading that the big brake kits were overkill, and the stock system is more than adaquate, so I was just going to upgrade the existing system. ss brake lines, rotors, pads, new fluid. Should I get a new master cylinder?(heh, I said "cylinder") Can I rebuild the calipers as well? I was still unsure of what to do with the wheel bearings, should I give them some attention while I am down there? Re-greasing or replacing?

The hardest chioce for me now, is what rotors to get. I know the expensive ones will are expensive for a reason, but I don't want to spend what i don't have to. So, stock rotors are fine then? I thought, in my mind, that at least having slotted rotors would help, but if not...that would save me some money.

slomo85

iTrader: (8)

Ohh, and about suspension. I was thinking of the kyb agx's(as somebody allready pointed out), with a ground control coilover kit. That will run about 700, and some coilovers run about 800. Is there much of a difference? I started reading about some of the other real racing suspension systems, and I was all like "I MUST HAVE.... where did I put that $ again?" I guess I am just trying to have something that is adjustable, so I can see for myself what setting are better. Are camber plates really worth it? I Just learned what camber is not too long ago, but the plates are pretty expensive. You know, the ones that go ontop of the front struts.

alberto_mg

honestly, none of the stuff you listed is "worth it" unless you are a serious racer.

you don't need adjustable height springs for the street. get adjustable shocks. you can have fun adjusting them

sounds like you are getting mod obsessive

slomo85

iTrader: (8)

I can see what you are saying, but since I am not yet a "serious" racer, I shoulf just umm, you know... Leave it alone and run on warped rotors? I will admit that I can be a little mod obsessive, but you would probabally see why if you read the [H] forums anythime in the last 4 years.

If I have to replace most of this stuff, and I want it to be sporty, and fun, and get as much track time out of it as possible, then why not get parts that will help the car meet those expectations?

Could you please help me find parts that are then "worth" it? Thanks for your replies...later