BonesZ33

iTrader: (5)

Well I noticed that lack of in dept DIY topics on the RX7. Yes most people who own FD's, already have basic automotive skills at the very least because of the mere attention that comes with owning an RX7. Yes most modern day cars have the same basic format of spring installation but for those who like to feel comfortable with step by step installation instructions this is for you !8D.

I will also be posting Other DIY topics on the FD. So you can check under my profile for other created DIY threads. Feel free to add any comments, questions or additions to the DIY review.

I installed Tein S-tech springs which have a F1.4 R1.3 drop. They previous owner gave them to me with the car so i cannot complain. I am going to get coil-overs in the future to give a bit more of a drop.

Tools needed-

Jack and Jack stands
Tire wrench
12mm socket/wrench
2 17mm Wrenches and sockets
2 14mm Wrenches and sockets
Various flat head screwdrivers
Spring compressor(for spring installation, Coil-over suspension systems do not need this)


-Disconnect Negative battery terminal.
-Jack up front of vehicle and place jack stands on frame rails points for a safe installation.
-Lock steering wheel to the nearest straight forward position.
-Take off both front tires.
-Take flat head screwdriver, and pry up the metal clip holding the speed sensor wire to the strut.
-Use a 12mm socket and take of the two bolts holding the brake line to the A-arm.
-Go to the top of the vehicle and take off the 3 14mm bolts holding the strut, also take off the 4th 14mm bolt in the middle of the strut and take off the circle piece of plastic/rubber.
-Take out both top A-arm bolts (connected to the car) using 2 14mm socket/wrenches, leave the single A arm bolt connect to the wheel assembly, It does not need to come out.
-Take out the bottom Strut bolt using 2 17mm wrenches/sockets
-Take a flat head screwdriver or prying tool, and pry the bottom of the strut out wards to wards yourself
-Once the bottom of the strut is free, bring the strut assembly down wards , tilt it toward the front of the car and slide it through loosened A-arm. You should have the strut assembly out of the car now.
-If you have a coil-over system, just put the new assembly in and replace everything back the way it was torquing all the bolts to spec. If you have springs you need to switch them to your old struts.


For springs, once you have them out of the car. Take your spring compressor and put them on both sides of the spring. Make sure you read the instructions if you've never used them before.
While there is still tension, Crack the top bolt only a half turn so you can loosen it, if you loosen the bolt before you tighten the spring compressor , the spring may fly off and cause extreme injury or even death.
Once you have the bolt cracked, Tighten the spring using the compressor, once the spring is able to move freely on the strut, take off the bolt and take out the spring.

Take off the compressor and put it on the new spring you're installing. make sure the end of the spring is seated in the correct position on the bottom and top of the strut, and also makes sure the spring is the right side up( usually the brand is facing right side up)

If you wish to spray the assembly with spray on grease on the rubber parts to prevent squeaking. Tighten the top bolt and use all washers and rubber pieces that were used on the stock assembly. Than once the bolt is tightened(do not overkill) loosen the spring compressor and that is it. Double check your work and install it on the car.


Speed sensor. Pop up the clip with a flathead.



Brake line.(attached to A-arm) Take off with a 12mm



A-arm. Take off both of these two top bolts using 2 14mm wrenches.



Top strut mount. Take off 3 14mm bolts and also the middle 4th 14mm with the black rubber.


Bottom of strut. Take off with 2 17mm wrenches. Than pry outwards.




Take out the strut




And Put New ones back!


If you're doing springs, this is the compressor.




Before




After



I'm going to do the rear Install in a couple days and Edit the install enjoy!

BonesZ33

iTrader: (5)

This post is for pix for the rear install :P

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

except you can't edit posts

BonesZ33

iTrader: (5)

well thats gay the forum should have an edit option

cptpain

iTrader: (1)

you can always ask a moderator to move your posts to one after the other.

BonesZ33

iTrader: (5)

thankyou

i'll keep that in mind for future reference as well

BuddhaRHD

iTrader: (1)

thanks man this is really helpful im doing this to my fd this weekend

BonesZ33

iTrader: (5)

No problem man, I'm going to do the rear Springs tomorrow and take pictures and have them up by tomorrow night.

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

Good writeup except you mis labeled the ABS speed sensor and the brake line you have them reversed. Where were you 2 weeks ago when i installed my coilovers i spent an hour and a half trying to figure out how to take out the front coils with out un bolting the upper controll arm, (i eventually figured it out) then the other side took me 25 minutes. Also you forgot to mention that it is easier to loosen the sway bar bolt on the lower controll arm, I see that you did it in the pics.


John

BuddhaRHD

iTrader: (1)

im going to wait for you to post it up then ill do it lol, i want to drop it and hopefully this guy comes thru with some ccw wheels since he is selling his car so my car will be done for now lol. got these cars are like a habit i cant quit lol

BonesZ33

iTrader: (5)

Well here is the rear spring install for the rx-7.

You use the same tools and basically the same procedure.


-Jack up the rear of the car (take tension off sway bar and suspension parts
-Take off both rear tires.
-Open your hatch, and take off your rear strut bar by taking off the 6 14mm bolts, also take off the 14mm bolt in the middle of the strut with the round plastic.
-Take off the bolt connected to the stut bar, it is connected to a bolt that goes through the bottom of the strut.14mm
-losen the 17mm bolt that holds the bottom of the strut and pull out the bolt (after its unnattached from the sway bar)
-Take off the bolt that holds the hub assembly so you can get the strut out. 14mm
-The strut should slide out now and just put the new one back in. easy

Sturt bar and bolts removed.14mm (8 of them)



Sway bar bolt (14mm)



Bolt on bottom of the strut(17mm)



Pull this out




Remove this bolt also (14mm)




Pull out the strut




Before



After


keywords DIY , Bonesz33

RX7LINK

iTrader: (3)

nice write up.

although the term you used for "coilover" is a bit misleading. the term "coilover" are typically refered as spring and shock built in one with height adjustablility. this is your normal lowering spring and strut installation.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Looks like you need new upper and lower mounts. Worn out mounts will cause the car to sit too low and the suspension may bottom out over bumps and dips.

BonesZ33

iTrader: (5)

Oh, I was under the impression that putting in a "coilover" system was the exact same thing as a strut/spring install.. the only difference is that when you buy a coilover system, the spring and shock are one peice, therefore you do not need to compress the spring and interchange the shock. Am i missing something?

Love your sig btw

With a recent blown water seal and myself not having the funds for a rebuild, worn out mounts are the least of my troubles :P. I plan to do a d2 coilover system in the future for a little more of a drop. The Tein springs were given to me for free when i bought the car, so this was basically an install that involved no money for me. I'll just have to get an alignment soon which was needed anyway.

lukes

Did anyone else notice it was very hard to get the bottom of strut bolt back in? (tight fit) , my adjusty's i had brought second hand had turned out to be duds, Ohlins circlip ? anyone used these?
Anyway, just found the Original Suspension a very tight fit at the bottom of the strut. Had to bust out the file :S

BonesZ33

iTrader: (5)

yes sometimes the bolts and struts can be tricky to line up. I used a jack and jacked up the entire hub assembly to raise it up a bit, it takes a little time and a couple hits back and forth with your hand. I also had to twist the strut side to side to make sure it was straight with the bolt hole in some cases. I didn't used any file though

M104-AMG

iTrader: (8)

The lower A-arm has an adjustable friction-fit sleeve/spacer/metal-bushing where the bottom of the shock mounts.

If you CANNOT get the bottom of the shock in easily, then you take another bolt , some washers, and a nut and "pull" the spacer OUT. The shock will go in with lots of clearance.

When you tighten the bottom shock bolt, it will pull in the adjustable sleeve.

FWIW, I use a little anti-seize as the sleeve is steel, and the A-arm is aluminum, just in case. . .

In short, no need to use a file, or even a hammer to move that adjustable lower A-arm shock mount spacer/bushing.

More importantly, the Factory Manual makes no mention of this!

More info here:

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...61&postcount=3

:-) neil

mecman

iTrader: (11)

I just did this last weekend. I agree with Bones, just get a small jack to raise up the lower control arm to line up the bottom bolt. I put a wood block under the disc rotor and raised it up until the bolt slid easily through.

Zoolander

iTrader: (8)

Bringing back this thread as this is my current project. The nuts to my left rear strut, sway bar, and A-arm are all pretty tight. It's not budging even with lots of torque. Is it okay to use PB Blaster on those to loosen them up? A gentle amount? I know it's a no-no on lug nuts and we're pretty close to the area of fatal failure so I just want to make doubly sure.

Also, are those two wrenches that are being used to loosen the sway bar nut in photo 2 of the rear install? Are two needed there? I don't see how one can create enough torque with those size wrenches in the limited space also - but those are the only ones that will fit! Maybe PB Blaster is the answer to all my troubles......

Is it safe to use on these suspension joints?

Thank you.

NoPis10

iTrader: (29)

^^^^
Yes , you can use PB Blaster.
Also, use a pipe or another wrench for added leverage to break them loose.
Also, he removed an extra bolt that doesn't need to be removed(5th picture). Once you remove the rear sway bar rubber wishbone, the shock will come out by pushing down on the lower control arm.
I just did my Apexi coilovers this weekend so it still fresh in my mind... LOL


L8R

mecman

iTrader: (11)

I used an impact wrench and a lot of PB Blaster. It was a lifesaver. Those suspension nuts and bolts see a lot of water if you drive your RX in less than ideal sunshine conditions if you live in the midwest like I do.

AchillesGr

iTrader: (1)

guys,
is this pb blaster the same as wd40?
why not to use it on lug nuts?
i use a lot of wd40 to unscrew stick and rusted bolts and some times during the assembly too to prevent rusting. is it a mistake?

thanks

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

They are both penetrants, but PB Blaster is much better.

I wouldn't use it to "prevent" rusting. For that type of application, use a good anti-seize compound.

jacoolv6

Quick question about the spring compressor can you rented like in auto zone? Next week im putting tein spring on my car.