I'll be starting my brake upgrade in preparation for Deals Gap. New cross-drilled Brembos, Axxis MM pads, Goodridge SS lines, Russel speed bleeders, Mazdatrix SS clutch line, dot 4 fluid, and VHT caliper paint. Is there anything I'm over-looking? Any tips/advice? Thanks.

 

Yep, change that brake fluid to Super Blue ATE:

http://www.motiveproducts.com/04fluids.html

 

How much would I need to completely refill the system? I ordered 3.

 

1 Liter will do, but it's best to order in bulk to save a little on shipping.

 

Get brake parts cleaner and some hi-temp brake parts grease for the rear slider calipers, too. You might find that you are missing shims and/or springs when you get the pads out, but you could always order anything you find to be missing later (your brakes work now, so they should work with the same stuff missing after the job, too).

-Max

 

I was under the impression from several other threads on this forum that cross-drilled rotors had a tendency to crack under hard use, am I wrong?

 

They do crack after hard use... but my friends use them and noticed a stonger brake response proving that it serves its purpose in eliminated those air pockets that get trapped against flat rotor and pad surfaces. I'm assuming HDP is doing this for track... even with non-cross drilled rotors, you're still gonna end up replacing the rotor and brake pads!

Jeremy

 

No, mainly for street with an occasional track day. I'm actually getting them ready for the Deal's Gap event so I'm upgrading with some of the parts I bought a year ago.

 

The increased braking power might be clean pad surfaces or simply more bite on the rotor (because of the holes), rather than an out-gassing issue.

-Max

 

What are the rear calipers made of, cast iron or cast aluminum?

 

This should be in the suspension/brakes forum.

 

The stock rear calipers are cast iron.

-Max

 

Thanks.