Coilovers
You need to be more specific on what type of driving you are going to be doing when selecting a set of coilovers, or any type of suspension modifications. There are a lot of equations that need to be worked out from how you drive to wheel and tire selection. This subject has been cover alot and you can find lots of reviews on different brands out there.
You can buy Koni shocks and then have them changed over for double adjustments for about $300-400 per shock. So, about $600 for all 4 shocks and then another $1600 to have them changed over for double adjustment. Add the Ground Control coilovers sleeves with custom spring rates from Eibach (about $600). Be sure to pick the spring rates first so when the shocks are rebuilt, they are matched for your spring rates.
That will give you about the best bang for the buck (about $2800 for the setup).
That will give you about the best bang for the buck (about $2800 for the setup).
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^I agree. From what I've read, the custom Konis are the best way to go. I've got Koni yellows. I bought them so I can upgrade them later if I start doing alot of tracking.
Just with the rebound damping, they are great dampers so far and I'm happy I chose them.
Just with the rebound damping, they are great dampers so far and I'm happy I chose them.
mmm, $4k for JRZ......
I'd say the Custom Koni/GC is like the JRZ RS
you could also make a Custom Bilstein/GC that's like the JRZ RS Pro. Just need to find you some Penske/Ohlins remote reservoirs.
I'd say the Custom Koni/GC is like the JRZ RS
you could also make a Custom Bilstein/GC that's like the JRZ RS Pro. Just need to find you some Penske/Ohlins remote reservoirs.
I like the fact that Koni has independent rebound and compression (if you want to pay more for it) adjust.......you just can't fine-tune a suspension in lockstep like 99% of the dampers out there.
when i say .. "you are going to street your car"
it means, you mainly have it on the track, but may want to drive it on the street every-so-often
I think T/A is such a big difference on track vs D/A - but still not rediculous where you need to reset every time you get off the track
it means, you mainly have it on the track, but may want to drive it on the street every-so-often
I think T/A is such a big difference on track vs D/A - but still not rediculous where you need to reset every time you get off the track





