Project Mu 355mm in the front, and the 99 spec size in the rear.

At the same time I also installed the FEED Big Slave Cylinder, and the FEED big Master Cylinder.

Note on the Master, I figured i'd get it so it would be plug and play... well I forgot to think about how RHD would play a hand in that. Bottom line is that you still have to bend one of the lines all up (or have a new one made) to make it fit. So just get the 929 version. i'm sure it is MUCH cheaper.

Harrison

 

Oh, and another question, whats the best way to bleed the brakes? I borrowed my friends motiv power bleeder, put it seems to leak at the cap, and doesn't really work that well. I've done the "one man bleed" with the little kit, and had a friend help me "pump"the brakes... I've already spent 30 dollars on fluid, but i know there is still air in the system, any advice would be great!

Thanks.

 

^^^^ Speedbleeders.

 

The Motive Power Bleeder is by far the easiest. The one you borrowed, is it using a screw on cap for the reservoir or does it have the universal "clamp" type?

 

Gorgeous car! Where did you get the 2 piece rear rotors?

 

Nice FD! What size rims and tires are you running front/rear?

 

Wasnt your fd in a magazine before?

 

it has the screw on cap, but still leaks. when i opened the passenger side rear, fluid came out... but very very slowly... anyway i can fix it so it doesn't leak? another gasket maybe?

I know there is definitely air still in there somewhere. I'm thinking i'm going to go buy a few bottles of the valvoline brake fluid and try the motive again, then when its all done, switch to a better fluid.

They are also project Mu, they are for the 99+.

I'm running 10.5x19 in the rear and 9.5x19 in the front... though i would like to get a set of 9.5x18 TE's so i can start to track the car. The 19's are just a bit too big. Tires are toyo T1S. 285 something in the rear, and 265 something in the front... i think...

Yea, it was in import tuner a while back.

 

i find lubing the rubber with fresh brake fluid ensures a tight seal. if your using the chain clamp make sure you keep the cap as flat on the MC as possible without it leaning over to one side.

 

I'll second the speedbleeders.

It's cheap and effective.

Crack the bleeder open, step on the brakes a few times, close the bleeder.

You can do it by yourself, but it's nice to have someone else either run the brake or watch the hose for bubbles. I prefer having someone else watch the hose.

You want to make sure that you aren't putting the brake pedal to the floor when bleeding, as that is a good way to ensure that you will soon be replacing the master cylinder if it is very old. If the MC has been around awhile, corrosion builds up at the end of the cylinder, and pressing the piston to the end will eat up the seals, and your MC will soon leak.

Here's an idea for the bleed bottle setup. Use a one gallon milk jug. Find a plastic flower pot (or something) big enough to put the milk jug in. Put something heavy in the bottom of the pot, put the milk jug in, and use a bleed hose long enough to go will inside the jug. Now your bleed bottle can be set on the floor and it will not fall over.

 

my friend said i should teflon tape the master cylinder cap and that should make it not leak. that works right?

Ugh, sorryt if i don't make sences, long night out... guess i'll try that tommorrow.

 

no dont use teflon tape on the cap. look under the cap and there should be a rubber fitting which is used to seal against the top of the MC. try lubing the rubber with fresh brake fluid before screwing it onto your MC. screw it on tight then pump to at least 10psi without any fluid in the bleeder and check if it holds pressure. wait a minute at least in case its a slow leak.

 

I was missing the rubber oring. i bought another at ACE and everything worked great. I'm pretty sure i got all the air out, though there might be a tiny bit still in there. I'll eventually change it, but the car runs and stops good for now.

Thanks for helping me trouble shoot.