Cheap Suspension Ideas
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Cheap Suspension Ideas
I am a High school student in an autotech course that has begun building an electric car out of a 86 GXL. We are limited on funds and need ideas for a setup for strickly AutoX. I am a FB guy and not familier with the FC independant rear. Any tips would be great.
BTW we have access to a full metal shop. Machine can be done by us, if required. Sandblaster, welders,. . . ETC
So I guess anyone who is thinking about competing in the $2006 grassroots challange would benifit from this too.
Eric
BTW we have access to a full metal shop. Machine can be done by us, if required. Sandblaster, welders,. . . ETC
So I guess anyone who is thinking about competing in the $2006 grassroots challange would benifit from this too.
Eric
#2
Lives on the Forum
As for things that you should be able to fabricate there's strut braces for the front and back, a lower arm brace for the rear of the front control arms, and you could make sway bars (be very careful of what grade steel you make them out of). The best thing would be to get race tires though, you can maybe get some old take offs from some other racer. Most everything else will be reasonable expensive, like adjustable shocks and some ground controls or something. You should be able to make some other chassis braces if you're ambitious. I've read good things about braces that connect the door hinge mounting points to the strut tower (they fit under the fender). Remove anything that you don't want or need, weight makes you slow. That's all I have for now that's not feindishly complicated and probably beyond your abilities. *your = you + the class
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
thanks for the ideas. We are thinking about turning some "coil-sleves" on the lathe that we have and weld it to the sturt housing. We are also worried about the NA tranny being able to hold up to the rigirous tourqe of a 9" 4000rpm electric motor. the braces are a great idea, we will start to take measurements.
We are looking for a set of 17in inche wheels (well my teacher is). Is 17in a good size for autox? wouldnt that create slightly taller gearing in which would be needed? also what width would be optimual?
We are looking for a set of 17in inche wheels (well my teacher is). Is 17in a good size for autox? wouldnt that create slightly taller gearing in which would be needed? also what width would be optimual?
#5
Lives on the Forum
Personally, I'd get some 15x8's and run 225/45/15 race tires (that size is only available in race tires). That way you get lower gearing, a lower CG and less rotating mass, which means better acceleration and cornering. I beleive the Kosei K1 comes in a 35mm or so offset in a 15x8. They're available fron tire rack, but it's not a listed size on the site, give them a call. That wheel is being discontinued though, so they may be all out. They get blanks and machine them to your specs (bolt pattern and hub bore).
The coil over sleeves I suppose could be made like that, but you'll need some adapters for the upper spring perch. You could also make camber plates and pillow ball mounts I suppose, but getting the right kind of bearing and such could be an issue. I'd personally worry about the strength of a home made coilover sleeve.
The NA tranny is ok for up to about 200 ft/lbs or so of torque as far as I know, but it depends alot on the driver. Be kind to it and don't do really hard launches and it may be fine, maybe not.
Another idea would be to make tubular steel control arms all around with rod ends instead of bushings.
The coil over sleeves I suppose could be made like that, but you'll need some adapters for the upper spring perch. You could also make camber plates and pillow ball mounts I suppose, but getting the right kind of bearing and such could be an issue. I'd personally worry about the strength of a home made coilover sleeve.
The NA tranny is ok for up to about 200 ft/lbs or so of torque as far as I know, but it depends alot on the driver. Be kind to it and don't do really hard launches and it may be fine, maybe not.
Another idea would be to make tubular steel control arms all around with rod ends instead of bushings.
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