I know that it isn't adjustable. But what part controls it? I got under the car last night and couldn't figure it out?

Is it the "lateral link"?

Anyone know if there's a torque spec on the nut that holds it to the subframe?

 

Front or rear?
I'm assuming rear?

Yes, that "vertical" link collapses the rear suspension sub frame, and it's a band-aid way of adjusting rear camber.



-Ted

 

What would you consider the proper way to adjust rear camber? The awr indiviual adjusters?

 

Yes, the AWR adjusters are the right way to do it. And it replaces a rubber bushed part that is probably completely worn out on your car (assuming its never been replaced).

Ben

 

What is AWR? And where exactly are these rubber bushings?

 

Actually, the AWR pieces are the second step, the Racing Beat/Mazdatrix single adjuster is the first. Get the one that adjusts w/out removal (MT IIRC) Unless you are going very low, that should be enough. The AWR will let you do large adjustments to a single side, since they are on each corner, but you can use the single rod, and fine tune with stock adjusters for most applications. See the race forum for several current threads on the topic. AWR.COM is Anthony Wood Racing, they do alot of EP cars. Their recomendations, and set-ups tend to be for very light, ~200-250hp FCs. If your car is near stock weight, or is high output, approach their damper recomendations with plenty of questions as to suitability. For EP cars, they are one of the best. Carl

 

I've heard that the awr adjusters squeak, my car makes enough noises and i dont know how long that adjusters would last on a street car. From the pictures i think they have grease fittings but they dont have dust boost on them.

 

Mine do not squeek. And there are no dust boots or grease fittings.
Just follow the directions and keep them well greased (not difficult) and you'll be all set.

Unless you are offroading or are afraid of greasing these every few months, they should outlast the stockers by about 1.5 million years.

Ben

 

for some reason I can not dial in any more negetive camber on my ground control plates. I have hte slider of the plates already up against the shock tower lip and I can only get -1.5 degrees of negetive camber. I'm about 25 inches ground to top of fender for front with a 225/50/16 R compound tire. I dont understand. I thought I would be able to dial in like -2.5 degrees.

I'm using S4 control arms on a S5 car if that matters any.