zullo

I am unable to make it through a track (lapping) weekend without warping brake rotors on my FD. I am running stock-size Brembo rotors and have tried a couple medium-aggressive pads (Carbotech XP8 and NTech lapping pads). And I have R-compound Pilot Sport Cup 245/45/16 tires on stock rims.

I'm sure some of the problem is due to the fact that I'm a rookie and am overbraking, but can anyone offer suggestions for more robust rotors or pads?

I have run some custom ducting from the stock duct openings back to a hole in the backing plates that should dump air right into the hat of the rotors, but this didn't seem to help significantly.

Help, I'm getting frustrated and don't want to pay $3000 for bigger brakes. Dpes anyone track their FD with stock brakes and not have this problem?

rynberg

Research regarding the myth of warped rotors.

It sounds like you may not be fully bedding in pads and/or not letting them cool properly. What are the symptoms you are experiencing?

RX7145

iTrader: (1)

Do you do a cool down lap with little to no braking? Sitting still with hot brakes will warp them quick.

macdaddy

Sounds like you've done the obvious things other than going to a larger floating rotor (like the StopTech or any of a number of other brands). FWIW, the typical noobie doesn't "overbrake," at least in the sense of braking too hard, instead, s/he brakes too easy and too long, which is harder on the brakes (builds up more heat) than threshold braking for a shorter time - which leads to more time between braking zones for the brakes to cool.

I would make sure you are actually dealing with warped rotors, instead of just uneven distribution of friction material on the rotor, which can lead to a pulsing sensation, and is frequently diagnosed as "warped rotors." This is why folks are talking about proper bedding-in and cool down procedures. You might want to see if you can borrow a dial gauge and magnetic base to actually measure run-out when you think the rotors are warped to be really sure. As mentioned, making your checker lap a "cool down" lap without using the brakes is good practice, and make sure you don't sit in the paddock or on the grid with hot brakes with your foot on the brake - and don't use the e-brake for the same reason.

If you really have warped rotors, despite doing the above things, the only suggestions I have are to improve your air ducting (if possible), or going to two-piece floating rotors. These allow the rotor to expand radially when hot, even when the hat doesn't get as hot or expand as much - this makes warping much less likely. They are also typically larger than the stock rotors, which gives more mass from which to distribute the heat. Unfortunately, you are talking about significant bucks here, but you can certainly get by for less than $3K - search on big brake kits.

zullo

Thanks! Symptoms are extreme shaking when braking. Cross-drilled Brembos were hairline cracked everywhere and cracked through the rotor at the edge. Slotted Brembos are not so obvious - no cracks, but definitely causing shaking. I swapped those out and finished with OEM backup rotors this last DE. Oddly enough the OEM rotors lasted the rest of the weekend with no significant symptoms.

I've tried to follow bedding procedures as outlined by Larry at Carbotech and by Nick at NTech.

I try to cool the car down after sessions, but have not to this point paid particular attention to staying off of the brakes. I've had some advice to not touch them after exiting the track, especially when stopping the car. That way they should be at their "loosest" to cool down. I suppose I can give that a try. Question: should the pads be in contact with the rotors when the car is at rest? Mine definitely are.
The rotor still turns freely but the pads are dragging. Problem?

I may also be braking "easy and long", as macdaddy suggests, once the brakes start to go. I lose confidence in them and tend to not threshold brake. Maybe that is exacerbating the problem.

Thanks for the advice and ideas guys.