I want to make this tread a sticky so no one has to search for this bullshit.

I am very dissapointed in MMR, no e-mail response and for not including instructions...seriously nothing even on the web page(find it funny though that they have a tuturial for SUB-FRAME Spacers BUT not these)

Anyway, help is appreciated.


BTW the qaulity looks decent...not the shiney anodized orange anymore and I know for a fact I am gonna have to grease the **** out of these if I want them to last.

 

You don't have to grease them much, they will pivot on the heim joint, that is the whole point.

Anyway, The heim joint goes into the arm, the block goes into the subframe. The square adjuster will point up towards the body.

The spacers go on the either side of the heim joint in the arm. The thick spacer goes on the same side as the steel flange on the block. The thin spacer goes on the other side.

After you remove the stock camber dogbones, adjust the camber adjusters to the approximate size of the dogbones.

Put the square block in the subframe first, with the heim joint pointing towards the arm. Put a bolt through the subframe and block to keep it in place. Once the block is in the subframe swing the adjuster up out of the way and start a bolt through the arm with the correct sized spacer on it. You may now need to manipulate the arm a bit, but you can do this by hand or with a pry bar. Then pull the heim joint in place and put the bolt into the heim joint leaving enough room slide the last spacer in. Slide in the last spacer with your fingers or needle nose pliers and push the bolt all the way through. Put on both nuts and torque them to spec. You can now adjust the camber with a 19mm and 17mm wrench.

 

you have MMR's links? any issues? one of my AWR links keeps loosening itself (apparently the control arm motion isnt quite uniaxial)

 

Yea I have them. I like the design much better, and they should last longer because they won't bind up. No issues so far, I have been running them for a few months.

 

Great and thank you LargeOrangeFont


To redeem MMR's stature on customer service: they replied to my e-mail after I informed them that some past customers have been dissapointed in the customer service AND the adjuster's bolt shearing.

NOW I know some of these parts are breaking due to either over torque OR improper installation, Ross at MMR said that he has had only 2 reports, he said this "We have only had two people contact us about the adjuster breaking. One of them didn't have the rod end threaded in far enough and it pulled the threads off of the rod end. The other broke the rod end in half. We have made changes to improve the design and reduce the stress on the rod end. If anyone has had a problem with the adjuster they should let us know. We will make changes to improve the part."

SO PLEASE IF ANYONE HAS HAD THIS ISSUE..LET THEM KNOW.


As for installation, this was the brief install instructions from him: "The rod end bolts into the control arm and the block bolts to the subframe. The wide spacers go toward the center of the car."

I hope this helps anyone in the future.

BTW thanks again LargeOrangeFont on clarifying that these ARE ADJUSTABLE on the car.