Super AFC Looking for some good base settings for the S-AFC with my setup...
#1
Y00s a h000
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Looking for some good base settings for the S-AFC with my setup...
I asked this before but I have a different injector setup then planned before and some different stuff. Please let me know what % up and down I should go for the high and low settings, and if someone could tell me how to do it again that would be good as well.
Here is the setup:
BNR Stage II Hybrid
A'pexi Intake
RB Turboback
Walbro 255
550cc Primaries
720cc Secondaries
going to be running like 10psi, but probably about 5psi tops since i'm not upping the boost yet and the wastegate is ported big.
I think I remember the high throttle being at like -18 but I forget so please refresh my memory, thanks.
Here is the setup:
BNR Stage II Hybrid
A'pexi Intake
RB Turboback
Walbro 255
550cc Primaries
720cc Secondaries
going to be running like 10psi, but probably about 5psi tops since i'm not upping the boost yet and the wastegate is ported big.
I think I remember the high throttle being at like -18 but I forget so please refresh my memory, thanks.
#2
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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As your aware, each car has it's own characteristics based on upgrades, but maybe this will help. At least it's some info:
http://wac.addr.com/auto/obs/safc/safc.html
http://wac.addr.com/auto/obs/safc/safc.html
#3
Y00s a h000
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Well i'm going to get it dyno tuned when my clutch gets installed, but i'm just now looking for a set number to go with and I found out that -23 was what everyone said I should go with for a 4x720cc setup but I wasn't sure if I should still go with that for the high-throttle or not
#4
I'm a boost creep...
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Tuning should not be done until you have some method measuring AFR's accurately. Using someone else's settings is very risky. Not only is every set-up different, you have no prove that someone else's setting are even safe, no matter what they say.
In the mean time you can correct for those big secondaries by setting the >3800rpm corrections to -13%. This will give similar mixtures to stock. Then get to a dyno.
In the mean time you can correct for those big secondaries by setting the >3800rpm corrections to -13%. This will give similar mixtures to stock. Then get to a dyno.
#6
Y00s a h000
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
Tuning should not be done until you have some method measuring AFR's accurately. Using someone else's settings is very risky. Not only is every set-up different, you have no prove that someone else's setting are even safe, no matter what they say.
In the mean time you can correct for those big secondaries by setting the >3800rpm corrections to -13%. This will give similar mixtures to stock. Then get to a dyno.
In the mean time you can correct for those big secondaries by setting the >3800rpm corrections to -13%. This will give similar mixtures to stock. Then get to a dyno.
#7
Boost This!
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yo dude just make sure it running smooth and keep it rich untill u can get it tuned. theres not point trying to figure out setting based on another car like it was said before every car is differnet. just be patient and just make sure its running smooth and wait for a dyno and a wideband.
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#9
casio isn't here.
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Originally Posted by Kahren
if the car hesistates or backfires or pops thats the car telling you to let off, not keep boosting! ive seen it time and time agian, if it can be prevented why blow?
#10
I'm a boost creep...
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Originally Posted by Ocelot
I wasn't looking to get anyones settings down to drive and boost with, just something to get by on to be able to use to drive around with...
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