Kit install suggestions

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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 08:04 PM
  #26  
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From: YORBA LINDA (O.C.)
I got the manifold on the engine by removing the studs. The maniflod is bolted on and I hae the turbo setting on the manifold.

Here is the problem. The turbo is hitting the a/c line and looks like when I set the turbo flat on the manifold it looks like it may hit the side of inner right fender.

Also have the waste gate mounted and the discharge will vent out to atmoser. I am asuming that i will need to place a filter on this opening.

Anyone have this issue with the long runner manifold?
Attached Thumbnails Kit install suggestions-manifold-wrapped.jpg   Kit install suggestions-manifold-3.jpg   Kit install suggestions-turbo-base.jpg   Kit install suggestions-turbo-man.jpg   Kit install suggestions-turbo-man-2.jpg  

Kit install suggestions-manifold-2.jpg  
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 08:05 PM
  #27  
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From: YORBA LINDA (O.C.)
More pictures.
Attached Thumbnails Kit install suggestions-waste-gate.jpg   Kit install suggestions-waste-gate-2.jpg  
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 07:48 AM
  #28  
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From: look behind you
Originally Posted by TrentO
I've run the kit over two years. I road race the car and I've run a few two hour races on it. On the initial mounting i had to leave one hotside bolt out to clear the oil drain line. I have had a number of issues with the coolant lines as the fit with the t$ 1.06 hotside is so tight. I've had a few minor coolant leaks from the fittings into the chra. The main problem is getting in to tighten the adapters. I've also slightly warped the flange and had a few exhaust gasket leaks because of that. (my fault, got it stupid hot with a bad partial throttle tune (who knew you'd need to run a race car at partial throttle under a long yellow )). I have a 2000 degree F EGT gauge and it was off the top. Toasted the turbo.

My suggestions:
Make a race option.
Upgrade the lines to braided or hardlines around the chra so you have better clearance. Ultimately I'd like to see the adapters on the coolant side go away (potential point of failure).
Use higher temp or shielded hose for the oil drain and coolant lines.
Provide a stainless shield for the tubo hotside and possibly the inside of the downpipe


I'd also like to know if there is a special method for getting the hotside off the turbo. I have the split rings holding the hotside on and after a few runs they will not come out period. I managed to get them off the toasted turbo using a 4lb mallet on the turbine.

Overall, I've beat the hell out of the kit and run down everything from turbo porshes to 2007 corvette Z06's to tube frame 300Z race cars. The setup has been very solid.

-Trent
Trent most of this stuff has been addressed, since you bought your product.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 07:53 AM
  #29  
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From: look behind you
Originally Posted by def3
I got the manifold on the engine by removing the studs. The maniflod is bolted on and I hae the turbo setting on the manifold.

Here is the problem. The turbo is hitting the a/c line and looks like when I set the turbo flat on the manifold it looks like it may hit the side of inner right fender.

Also have the waste gate mounted and the discharge will vent out to atmoser. I am asuming that i will need to place a filter on this opening.

Anyone have this issue with the long runner manifold?
Turbo will be close the the fender but shouldn't hit. If it does your motor is not in the stock location or your fender/frame isn't Ac lines will have to be gently worked around the turbo. Usually unclip them and bend them lightly where needed to get the extra clearance necessary. Some people just unclip them and mount them slightly higher up.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 09:46 AM
  #30  
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......or just delete the a/c all together
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 07:58 PM
  #31  
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From: YORBA LINDA (O.C.)
Originally Posted by Zero R
Turbo will be close the the fender but shouldn't hit. If it does your motor is not in the stock location or your fender/frame isn't Ac lines will have to be gently worked around the turbo. Usually unclip them and bend them lightly where needed to get the extra clearance necessary. Some people just unclip them and mount them slightly higher up.
I can not get more movement out of the a/c line. I will have to get a new line made that will be about 1" longer due to my v-mount kit. What about the heart hose coming from the fill tank/t-state? I am also hitting here.
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 08:53 PM
  #32  
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From: MD
Originally Posted by Zero R
The clamps, I have enclosed pics as I have had a few people say they were a bitch to put on. Some even insisted they got the wrong size. I explained to them that the flanges were machined to the clamp. They fit and fit tight, especially the first time. Why? So they have less chance of leaking. Once I explained how to install the clamp they agreed it wasn't much of a issue if any.

I would do this once out of the car first. So you have the room.
I found that even with this trick the bolt did not stick out far enough to the get the nut on. first time I assembled on the bench. I then put a 5" hose clamp on top of the V-band and tightened that down while wiggling the prying screwdriver until I could start the nut.

Mark
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 07:29 PM
  #33  
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From: MD
Then getting the TiAL wastegate on required a trick. The collar that seats the valve stick out enough to prevent getting the v-band on unless you open the valve some so things fit together. I attached a bicycle pump to one of hte suppllied barb fittings and had a friend pump while I put the clamp on. Easy.
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 07:05 PM
  #34  
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From: look behind you
Not sure why that wouldn't have worked on the turbine v-band, I never had a issue once that was done. Good idea on the WG.
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