FMIC in Texas
05-05-12, 05:42 PM
#1
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FMIC in Texas
Hey, Is there anyone running an FMIC down in the 110 degree Texas heat? I just moved down here and wondering if it would be a bad idea get a FMIC where my Koyo will be mounted vertically. I only drive 2 minutes to work. If I go to town (i live in the middle of now where) it's a 30 mile straight trip down highway 90 at 70mph.
Im having an issue installing a PFS SMIC I bought due to the thicker radiator core.
Im having an issue installing a PFS SMIC I bought due to the thicker radiator core.
05-05-12, 11:23 PM
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It's not a problem, i've been running around with a FMIC for the past 4 years. Just make sure your coolant system and fans are working correctly because the heat here will put it to the test.
06-05-12, 06:01 PM
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I have had following combos:
stock rad/stock ic
koyo rad/greddy smic
koyo rad / blitz fmic (current setup)
with fresh 70/30 mix of distilled water and coolant, new fan motors, etc ... i still get up to 100c on the PFC if i get in traffic. I think the worst I have had lately was 102c while stopped in traffic. SMIC didnt net cooler water temps than the FMIC.
I have 2 oil coolers, which is supposed to help...
I dont know how some guys are able to keep it in the mid 80s in this heat... Whats your secret?
Todd
stock rad/stock ic
koyo rad/greddy smic
koyo rad / blitz fmic (current setup)
with fresh 70/30 mix of distilled water and coolant, new fan motors, etc ... i still get up to 100c on the PFC if i get in traffic. I think the worst I have had lately was 102c while stopped in traffic. SMIC didnt net cooler water temps than the FMIC.
I have 2 oil coolers, which is supposed to help...
I dont know how some guys are able to keep it in the mid 80s in this heat... Whats your secret?
Todd
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06-05-12, 11:40 PM
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It depends on the excat combo of FMIC and radiator.
The Blitz mid-front mount IC is best as it does not block the stock nose inlet like the Greddys do. The Koyo "N" pass radiator is also the best cooling rad out there.
Both with proper ducting works way batter than the stock system.
The Blitz mid-front mount IC is best as it does not block the stock nose inlet like the Greddys do. The Koyo "N" pass radiator is also the best cooling rad out there.
Both with proper ducting works way batter than the stock system.
06-06-12, 08:54 AM
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Chuck, how much of an improvement is the N-flow over the standard koyo?
Id like to look at yours and see how you ducted it. Just the bottom and sides or top as well?
What thermostat are you using?
Todd
Id like to look at yours and see how you ducted it. Just the bottom and sides or top as well?
What thermostat are you using?
Todd
Last edited by txfdr2; 06-06-12 at 09:08 AM.
06-07-12, 02:17 AM
#11
^i had similarish problems with the FMIC here in dallas last summer in the 115* weather. I would get to about 102 but if i kicked the fans on max i dropped to about 97 in traffic. In the spring fall I would be at mid 80's all the time. Current temps with vmount set up i can't get out of the 80's but my AIT's are higher (need to vent the hood)
Set up:
Greddy FMIC
Koyo rad
Setrab 25 row oil coolers (in series)
Stock twins non-seq
New set up:
Greddy FMIC (in vmount)
Koyo rad vmount
Single Turbo
Oh running the stock thermostat with the Pettit racing thermoswitch
Set up:
Greddy FMIC
Koyo rad
Setrab 25 row oil coolers (in series)
Stock twins non-seq
New set up:
Greddy FMIC (in vmount)
Koyo rad vmount
Single Turbo
Oh running the stock thermostat with the Pettit racing thermoswitch
06-08-12, 02:23 PM
#12
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This is what I did:
(1) removed the two small black plastic end pates in the inlet nose to increase air inlet size.
(2) installed a single "shark tooth" expansion bolt to increase the inlet height.
(3) a small strip of 1/4" thick foam between the rad and ic tops.
(4) some 3" foam at the top sides to fill in small openings.
(5) two side blocker plates to prevent the air from crossing over/mixing with the twin oil cooler ducts.
(6) two bottom blooking plates to prevent air leaking out the bottom sides.
Stock thermostat, Koyo "N" pass radiator which is the best out here for a FD,
fan mod switch to enable max fan speed.
(1) removed the two small black plastic end pates in the inlet nose to increase air inlet size.
(2) installed a single "shark tooth" expansion bolt to increase the inlet height.
(3) a small strip of 1/4" thick foam between the rad and ic tops.
(4) some 3" foam at the top sides to fill in small openings.
(5) two side blocker plates to prevent the air from crossing over/mixing with the twin oil cooler ducts.
(6) two bottom blooking plates to prevent air leaking out the bottom sides.
Stock thermostat, Koyo "N" pass radiator which is the best out here for a FD,
fan mod switch to enable max fan speed.
06-09-12, 08:58 AM
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With a stock FD nose and without cutting holes in the nose, the Blitz cools better than the Greedys which touchs the nose real edges.
If you saw both side by side, then you would see how superior thr Blitz is.
Too bad they do not make this model anymore.
If you saw both side by side, then you would see how superior thr Blitz is.
Too bad they do not make this model anymore.
