keith_from_GPTX

100 bucks to anyone that can get a newly built 88 gxl running

i sould have all the parts to make this thing run. i might have a fule issue though i getting fuel pressure. could also be the timming.

seems to be getting plenty of spark and compresseion but how would i know.

text my cell 214 497 8315

or email keithr@mallorygroup.com

stevie1020

i tell u what call my wensday and ill walk u through it i had the same promblems i just changed my ecu and fuel pump. to check for spark take a plug wire out and put a screw driver in it than just lay it on ur chasis where u can see it turn car over if u see spark than yay if not you need a new computer probaly

ryderX

iTrader: (1)

no spark does not mean its ECU, could just be a coil....

keith_from_GPTX

i get spark and lots of it. i laid the plun on the intake to see if it spark. i did it to all 4 all work (i think i did the timming right since i followed steps on here) however if i adjust timming incorrect i do get it to back fire and shoot flames out the TB.


fule injectores are really old and so are the fule rail and regulator but it seems like im getting pressure to the injectors since i have to replace the orings cuz the presure was making them leak. i have no way to tell if they r opening up though

Wankel7

Man that sucks...wish I was in town I would swing by

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

How far out of Dallas are you? I just finally got my '87 running Monday, now I'm just waiting on a new exhaust manifold gasket so I can go try to trick the emissions guy.

edit: So yes, I ought to have it at the monthly meet instead of the Neon.

keith_from_GPTX

I'm by south 360 and 20

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

That's kinda far for me to drop by and peek at it right now. Here's what I've experienced.

If the engine cranks but won't start -

- does it smell like gas a lot when it doesn't start? If so, just pull the top two engine bay fuses and crank until it starts to catch.

- make sure you put oil in it. Don't laugh! I did this on a fresh rebuild, engine absolutely refused to start, and I was sitting in the garage thinking about it and I realized I had 5 new quarts of oil sitting over there in the corner. Put them in and it fired right up.

- make sure the fuel lines are on in the right order - the fuel filter fuel line is supply side and it goes to the bottom fuel rail (front of engine) and the other is return and should go to the top fuel rail. It won't work backwards because there are a couple of check valves. If you can't tell where the fuel lines are going because of the intake manifold, then swap them and try starting it. When it's on wrong, you won't get any fuel, but you'll probably get some air pressure so that it pops when you pull the hose off.

- check to make sure all the engine harness plugs are connected inside the passenger cabin. Even the little white 4 pin plug.

- make sure the TPS is plugged into the white plug that usually ends up right behind the water pump housing, not the green one over by the intake

- check the air intake for leaks, and make sure the MAF is connected, and that big black hose that comes out of the bottom and runs over to the brass tubing for the BAC on the back of the throttle body.

- recheck your vacuum lines, even that big one that goes down from behind the engine on the passenger side to the airpipe on the catalytic converter.

- is this a fresh rebuild? If not, you may have to pull start it behind a truck (tow it in neutral then let out the clutch in second) - make sure everything else has been checked before this though! If you do this and it runs fine after this, run it for 30 minutes or more before shutting it off. If it's a rebuild, be careful not to let your tow vehicle pull you over 4000 rpm for the breakin period.

Also, try holding the throttle open when cranking it. If it dies immediately, your idle isn't tuned high enough. This usually means a vacuum leak somewhere.

Good luck with it, let us know how it comes out, or more about the problem!

keith_from_GPTX

ok. i when out and missed with it some more today.

i have the timing right because i got it to fire and run for 30 seconds

it seems i have to pour oil directly into the motor - i guess that helps with compression??? to seal everything??

anyway. i made sure my oil injectors flow by pressureing the wd-40 can through them and the flow. could that be my problem?

is there a way to have the oil injection at full throuttle to help it?

Tessai

1oz/Gallon into the gas tank, using Marvel Mystery Oil if you want to premix it.

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

The oil injection is controlled by the rod on the front side of the throttle body, so you can force your oil injection to wide open by disconnecting it from the throttle body and pulling it up while you crank it, but that shouldn't stop your car from running.

Do a search for the TPS calibration and make sure that your TPS is set up right, it's not too hard. After that, I'd back out the screw on top of the throttle body all the way and try starting it. That should force your idle up. Once you get your car started and running at high idle, then slowly start dialing it back in to where it needs to be.

Make sure all your vacuum ports are sealed, the ones on the passenger side rear of the intake manifold near the bottom, the ones on the back of the throttle body near the top - the ones on the front of the throttle body that aren't being used. There are a couple right under the lower fuel rail, there are a couple down a little further from that if I remember right, and there are some on the back of expansion chamber near the BAC.

keith_from_GPTX

lol thanks for all the help. i went to work on it today and guess what.

i got it to run. i used a zip tie to hold the oil injection to wide open. after that it starterd right up and ran it for about a minute tell i could hardly breath from all the f n smoke. all my neighbors thought it started on fire

it was like a big *** smoke screen in the military. bahaha


i wait for the smoke to got away try to restart and it trys but wont.

so spark is ok. no i need to do something about my oil fule mixture. hrmmmm......

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

I won't lie to you, I've got no clue on that. :P I just rebuilt my engine and put it in, and it was running great, but had a monster exhaust leak. I fixed the exhaust leak, and now it will start catch and rev itself up for a second or two, then immediately die. I've checked and I don't seem to have any vacuum leaks at all, and it starts right the hell up every time, but won't idle again. Color me confused. :P

keith_from_GPTX

i got mine doing the same thing too now. if i pure oil down the intake it will start up just fine rev way the hell up and then die. i dont get it lol. its like if i keep puting oil manuley into it it runs.

if i dont pur oil into it in dosent start. this suxs because its putts oil hella smoke with that oil burns all out.

dothacker

according to the Haynes Manual:

"engine rotates but will not start"
1. Fuel tank empty or fuel pump strainter clogged
2. Battery discharged - engine rotates slowly
3. Battery termnial connections loose or corroded
4. Defective ignition component(s)
5. Worn or defective spark plugs
6. Broken loose or disconnected starting circuit wiring
7. Loose crank angle sensor
8. Broken, loose or disconnected wires at coil (with igniter) or defective coil
9. No fuel (check for pulsations at main fuel hose by hand)
10. Primary fuel injector(s) malfunctioning
11. Leaking fuel injector, fuel pump, pressure regulator, etc.
12. Fuel not reaching fuel rail/low fuel pressure
13. Defective fuel system solenoid resistor
14. Defective secondary air injection system water thermo sensor
15. Faulty fuel pump switch in air flow meter
16. Air flow meter malfunctioning
17. incorrect fuel pressure
18. Low Compression
19. Defective control unit (take the vehicle to a dealer).

i would suggest to write it down and do the "Process of Elimination". try it 1 by 1 and if everything else fails, look if u put the spark plug wires on the right plugs.

or:

Engine starts but stops immediately, runs roughly at normal operating temperature or stalls at normal operating temperature

1. Leaking intake air system
2. Loose or dirty electrical connections at distributor, coil or alternator or malfunctioning Electronic Spark Advance (ESA) system
3. Insufficient fuel reacing the injector(s)
4. Vaccum leack at the gasket between the throttle body and dynamic chamber.
5. Incorrect ignition timing
6. Incorrect idle speed
7. No or low fuel pressure (check for pulsations at main fuel hose by hand)
8. defective fuel system solenoid resistor
9. Defective Throttle sensor
10. Faulty primary fuel injector(s)
11. Malfunctioning bypass air control (BAC) system or idle speed control (ISC) system
12. Defective crankcase and evaporative emission control system purge control valve
13. Defective secondary air injection system air control valve (ACV) or water thermo sensor
14. Insufficient fuel flow at idle (check variable resistor connection and resistance)
15. Defective EGR valve
16. Defective air flow meter and/or intake air temperature sensor
17. Incorrect fuel pressure
18. Leaking fuel injector(s)
19. Incorrect injection volume
20. Plugged exhaust system
21. Low compression pressure
22. Faulty control unit or malfunctioning control system (take the vehicle to a dealer).

keith_from_GPTX

can it be a boost leak?