all we would need to do is put lights on it and change the tires, then add a wind shield

 

wait, do we need lights for this race?

 

I'm in.

 

yes head, tail, and brake lights are required

 

16 or 17 gallon tank on a FC. The sad part is i actually have an excellent candidate for an FC chassis that already has a salvage title (just front end damage) but can't really donate it to this cause as I need to part it out for cash for my other project.

 

so how many people are actually going to do this?

 

? I read otherwise. I don't think we need any head, tail or brake lights.

3.8: Glass, Headlights, and Taillights: All glass headlights must be removed; all window glass other than front windshield must be removed; plastic turn signals, side markers, and taillights must be removed or fully taped over.

I'm 90% doing this, not decided on direction with a car though.

 

well me and chuck (RX-7 nut) are doing one down here.

 

Thunderhill Supplement
1: Headlights
Not only are they legal at Thunderhill, they're mandatory. All cars must run with a minimum of two and a maximum of four working headlights after sundown. There's no minimum or maximum candlepower, but don't be a jerk--overly powerful lights will be removed at the organizers' discretion, and it'll be your responsibility to replace them on-site with something that doesn't roast moths at 50 yards. OE-level lighting is more than enough for this course, and any car that disrupts other competitors' vision will be black-flagged. Roof- and rollbar-mounted headlights are illegal; the bottom edge of all lights must be no higher than three inches above the highest point of your hood.




Thunderhill Supplement 2: Taillights
Again, these are mandatory at Thunderhill. One taillight is the minimum, but we strongly recommend fitting at least two; that way, you won't get black-flagged as soon as the first one craps out or gets crunched. Taillights can be located in any spot readily visible from behind. Lenses should be covered with clear tape.




Thunderhill Supplement 3: Brake Lights
Same as above: One brake light is the minimum, but we strongly recommend fitting at least two; that way, you won't get black-flagged as soon as the first one craps out or gets crunched. Brake lights can be located in any spot readily visible from behind. Combination brake/taillight assemblies are fine. Lenses should be covered with clear tape.




Thunderhill Supplement 4: Windows and Rear Glass
Side windows and rear glass are legal but not mandatory. Plexi or Lexan replacements, if suitably sturdy and shatter-resistant, are fine.

 

this is the race at thunderhill right?

 

Yep, 2007 at Thunderhill only.

 

so for 2008 do we need lights or no?

 

There are no track lights at MSRH, so if your going to race 24 hours your going to need something.

 

from what I infered fromt he site was that the TH race was the only 24 hour race, there for those rules would have to apply to any 24hr race

 

I'm confused if there is actually 24 hours of racing, it may be a 24hr event but not that much racing.

This article led me to that...

http://www.caranddriver.com/features...of-lemons.html

"This event also takes 24 hours, but just 13 hours of it is racing — from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. on Saturday and from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Sunday."

 

the video has them racing at night

 

It's a two day event but it looks like most of the events have a nightly break for repairs, sleeping, etc. I'll add that to my list of questions I've already posted up on the yahoo discussion.

SCCAITS: If the Dallas crew here at the club can't get a going concern for this I'm sure we wouldn't say no to you over at the DFW effort on TXIC. We are still in the talking stages at the moment but a few guys who have chimed up have the means and wherewithal to see this thing through. And I suspect we will keep things a bit chatty with our Houston brethren who look to already be organizing into two teams and exchange ideas etc with them.

 

WTF? This thread is about the event at MSR not thunderhill.
Those rules were for that event specifically.

 

I have a tII with a cosmo engine allready to go
full cage and all
lexan glass
Id need to put the stock peddal box back in...

Id also need to figure out management...
$500
used slicks???

 

Also Id be happy to do the work (cage ect)

 

yes, i'll post a link to our (me and RX7nut) buildup thread that we haven't started yet... we're going along the lines of an 87 TII shell with no title and an n/a drivetrain. We were thinking turboing will blow the budget and seriousy cut down on the reliability factor.

 

Your going to get owned by this rule if you tried to get away with that... seriously, this car needs to be a beater:

4.1.1: Lame-*** Rationalizations: Cars that "should be" worth $500 don't count; cars that "were worth $500" before you spent another $2000 to fix them don't count; cars you've owned for 20 years and spent more than $500 on during that time don't count; "it would have been worth $500 if it didn't already have a cage" doesn't count. Five hundred dollars means five hundred frickin' dollars.

Here is something to consider from their FAQ....

WHY NOT CHEAT ON THE $500 LIMIT?

Because our BS-Factor judging panel will dock you one lap for every additional ten dollars it thinks you spent. It's also a claiming race, meaning the organizer can buy your car after the race for $500 if he thinks you've been cheating. (Attention potential miscreants—last year we lets lots of stuff slide; in '07 we'll be doing a full inspection.)

 

this sounds more and more lik 91 civic or 91 miata+ cut springs...

 

and to add to that...

1.4: Claiming Race: At the end of the competition, organizer may elect to purchase any vehicle from its owner(s) for $500. In other words, don't spend a lot on a cheater—cause if you do, you ain't gonna own it much longer.

# 1.6: Your Car May Be Destroyed At Any Time: In addition to accidents and other unfortunate boo-boos, one car may be selected by blind ballot of all registered participants for immediate removal and total destruction. It could be your car. It probably WILL BE your car. Them's the breaks. Don't bring it if you ain't OK with losing it.

This isn't the time to be build that "cool" race car. This is like a demo derby!

Tanji - I'm open to whatever. Sounds like a fun race, many ways to approach it and obviously lots of time. A cheap 2nd Gen would be my #1 pick the more I think about it. I could use some spare parts off it at the end, so could you and probably many others. Buy and build one cheap (keep it mostly stock and just do reliability stuff and maybe something with the suspension), race it, strip it afterwards, then part the rest. If that decides to be too much work, street stock turd like the ones on ebay I linked to. Otherwise, if I could be of benefit to a team I'd pitch in and work/contribute/drive.

 

Mark, as this project takes shape, I have some parts I can donate. I have a bolt in IT (1st gen) cage that I took out of a car. An UltraShield seat that needs a little work. I have lots of other stuff as well, mostly 1st gen but do have some 2nd gen trannies.
Congrats on your drive last weekend. Did your run ITE?

I would love to be in the mix here as this event sounds like a blast, my other projects are just beating me down.