jhammerrx7

iTrader: (5)

Is anybody out there using XS's T04E single? I have one on my car along with a bunch of other stuff. I was just wondering what kind of boost your running and if anybody has done any dyno runs with one?

TomsRX7

I have pretty much all the mods that you have. As a matter of fact, our cars are almost identical. Anyhow, when I was running the stock twins, I dyno'd 339hp at the wheels running 14psi. I live near XS so I had them tune/dyno the car. I just bought the XS T04E kit but I'm not quite done installing it yet. In my opinion, I think 14-15psi is good for the street. I've been told that should get me near the 400rwhp mark but I bet it will be more like 380rwhp. Max Cooper has the Apex kit. He dyno'd 369rwhp and I don't expect this kit to be much different. In any case, I will be sure to post my dyno results once I have it done.

-Tom

LUV94RX7

iTrader: (3)

14psi boost.

330 lbs torque at 5k rpms.

rwhp rpm
053 - 2.5
084 - 3.0
137 - 3.5
212 - 4.0
260 - 4.5
300 - 5.0
330 - 5.5
345 - 6.0
340 - 6.5
325 - 7.0

CARTEST2000 simulates it at high 11s - low 12s 121mph at 14psi.
124 mph at 21psi.

Not as good as I had hoped but Dave said with the water injection it should be bullet-proof. Dave does not tune at the ragged edge.

Ken, 58 years young
'94 white, pep, red leather,
mods: Hayes/KDR street port & polished,
3mm Hurley racing seals,
upgraded coolant seals,
Power FC ecu, Commander, Datalogit,
XS T04e single turbo kit,
GReddy SMIC (400+cu.in.),
Aquamist 2s water injection kit,
Pettit ss resonated MP,
Pettit ss cat-back,
RP Racing fuel pump,
1600cc injectors,
Profec B(14&21psi),
3-Bar Map Sensor,
Centerforce clutch,
Racelogic Traction Control,
Under pulley kit (no air pump),
Pettit short shifter kit,
LaBreck's bushings,
Evans Coolant
http://nopistons.com/luv94rx7.html

newRX7fan

iTrader: (1)

I have pretty much the same setup except I have a hi-flow cat instead of a midpipe. I got 335rwhp @14psi. The cat is disintegrating and so isn't flowing well. With it disconnected I got 360.

TomsRX7

Sounds like you guys need to visit XS Engineering. I got 339hp at the wheels with the stock twins at 14psi, and that wasn't even pushing the A/F ratio

areedertx

I have the stock twins with an XS computer running 15psi. My car, with similar mods to y'alls, hit just over 335 rwhp on the dyno. Do you know if XS will retune the computer to work with their T04E kit? I live in Texas so I'd hope to send my ECU to them. I am planning on upgrading to the PFC at some point but not at the same time I will be adding the single turbo kit...I just barely talked my wife into the new engine/single turbo upgrade

Red-Rx7

Ken-

I find this very surprising. I know you get along with Dave @ KDR, but I would question this.

At 14psi of boost on the T04E, you are making 345 rwhp. Can you shed some light on why SO conservative?

@ 11.7:1 @ 13psi of boost I made the same power on the stock twins. There is another guy here in town (RTS3GEN) who has made 361 RWHP @ 15psi of boost on the stock twins as well. His setup is damn stable too. Running the Pettit Unlimited ECU, with a 10.9 - 11.7:1 AFR depending on the powerband. But, max AFR was 11.7:1 during those runs.

Both of our engines are / were ported.

I am just flabergasted at the amount of lower power you are making with this setup. You should be near, or over the 400 mark @ the wheels.

I would seriously reconsider what you have invested and go through it all.

Mike

Wargasm

Here are the different T04E dyno results I have on my page...

http://www.catenet.net/graph.php?car...1&SUBMIT=GRAPH

Ken's peak power RPM is low for a street port, but the midrange looks consistent with what other people have gotten.

Regards,
Brian

TomsRX7

Yep. I have a ported motor, all the intake and exhaust mods, T04E single turbo, M2 intercooler and the normal fuel mods, and we're estimating my car will put down 380-400hp to the wheels at 15psi.

LUV94RX7

iTrader: (3)

I was very disappointed also. When the weather gets better I'll see what my Vericom computer says it is in real world driving on the street. We'll see what it does at 22psi.

I was happy with the torque of 330lbs at 5k rpms. The car really is streetable and Dave says it's bullet-proof.

Ken

Wargasm

Ken do you have a copy of the dyno graph itself? Perhaps there are clues in that that might tell us something interesting...

Regards,
B

Red-Rx7

Well, again, still flabbergasted.

1) What was your AFR through your entire 4th gear run. Min / Max / Average?
2) What is your advanced timing set to throughout the powerband?
3) What is your trailing/split timing set to throughout the powerband?
4) Get us a copy of your dyno graph... Are you having ignition problems? It may not feel like it, but that could really have an effect on your power. Also, do you have any ignition amps, ie HKS Twin? HEH, Also, what plug ratings are you running? Are they wet? Dry? etc.
5) Was the dyno pulls with the racelogic unit turned "on"? What is the possibily that this unit maybe getting confused on the dyno and interfering with ignition?
6) How is your clutch life doing? Do you notice any slipage at all? Those centerforce units are either love/hate relationships.

Lets do some research and figure out what is going on. I know that Dave indicates that this is a "bullet proof" system, and it may be.... but when does it cross the line? When you idle or drive hard, is it running rich? Maybe the car is TOO rich? Maybe your running TOO lax on your timing curves? Lots of maybe's.

I personally would be extremely disapointed in the way the car has turned out with the amount of money you (I in the example. ) have invested.

Mike

setzep

Does this mean you finally got your car back? Just in time for the snow

LUV94RX7

iTrader: (3)

I think I will give this up till April 2003.

I know the car ran much better when I took my nephew out on Thanksgiving.
Temp was 30F, 93 octane and water was NOT working. Water broke 50 miles out of PA and I had no time to fix it before Thanksgiving. I just got back and had 4 hours of sleep and had to go to my brother’s for Thanksgiving.

I tried to find a place to do some runs. I had traction control set for 10% slippage. I don’t think I’m going to try it with traction control OFF till the summer. With these cold hard tires on cold lousy traction roads it’s too dangerous. I finally found a backwater road where I would not be caught, but only room to do 1/8 mile runs. Missed 3rd once and could not get it into reverse. Took a few tries and finally it went in. It’s not real good though. Mazda 5-speeds are lousy, not like a T56. Drag racing is too hard on my car and I can’t afford any more expenses breaking stuff.

Car did not feel too strong, especially at high rpms. Maybe it is because water was working. I really don’t think I need water injection in 15F weather. Dave has water to kick in at 7.5psi and I put on 60 miles today on a ¼ tank of gas and used 1.5 gallons of water. That is a lot of water. I’m thinking too much and that’s why the low high end numbers. Maybe I’ll try a dyno run with it turned off. I had 100 octane so I tried a couple at 20psi, it ran worse. I don’t think Dave had enough time to tune it on his dyno, it broke while he was tuning it for water after he had it tuned without water. Guess I’m screwed there, as I have no one here that knows dyno tuning with my setup. Wife said she would leave me if I ever try to drive to or from KDR again. She was really upset when she found out about the terrible trip back.

The road I found had some gritty feeling as I could hear sandy stuff hitting my wheel wells. It was 15F outside. Here is a sample run. Commander had peaks of 82% injector duty cycle, 15psi boost, 192F water temp, 59F intake temp to the motor.

I launched at 4.5k rpms.

15’ .94sec, 16mph, .59Gs
30’ 1.48sec, 23mph, .63Gs
60’ 2.22sec, 33mph, .64Gs
330’ 5.74sec, 71mph, .29Gs
660’ 8.55sec, 92mph, .28Gs

Before I started I did a Vericom dyno run in 2nd gear. Car ran better than when I was dragging.

I show Dave dyno #s and the Vericom #s. It shows a ton more power down low then Dave’s dyno and much less than Dave’s dyno at the top end. I believe the Vericom on the low end because the car is really strong down low. It’s much better than I expected. I think it just needs some good tuning on the top end and I’ll be okay. Trouble is where do I get this tuning. I wish Wyum knew Datalogit. Dave said it took him a few months to really get good with Datalogit.

Dave
rwhp rpm Vericom
053 - 2.5 136
084 - 3.0 144
137 - 3.5 153
212 - 4.0 199
260 - 4.5 238
300 - 5.0 297
330 - 5.5 348
345 - 6.0 340
340 - 6.5 300
325 - 7.0 290
-------7.5 255

Ken

RICE RACING

Ken, a few questions.

I did not notice an ignition AMP in your sig (CDI) do you run one? You will need one to run WI without power loss.

Second you will not be able to get the mixture fired if you are using ALLOT of water. the maximum I recommend is 300cc/min @ WOT and full power revs, (If you can turn it down to 200cc/min it will still give you a good benifit while being "firable on stock ignition")you can take out the nozzle and see the flow rate for one minute into a jug with scale markings on it.

Third, you may need to change your plugs from std turbo BUR types to EGV single electrode examples I use B10EGV's in engines making the power you have. Gap these down to 0.02" and this will help to fire that mixture much better than the BUR plugs........this together should pick up the top end drop off you are experiencing.

Finally If the car is tuned "heavy" on fuel when you turn on the WI you will find that you will loose a little power, if it is a great loss, then your car is REALY rich or your ignition system needs upgrading if the water flow rate is within the limits I mentioned earlier.

LUV94RX7

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, Peter.

Did you get my PM for the "Big List"?

Ken

RICE RACING

Yes I did, thanx have to get it to work now, came back with an error.....try again now.

LUV94RX7

iTrader: (3)

I think I know the answer for the low high-rpm rwhp numbers. I was running on cold roads, it was 15F and had cold poor traction hard rubber tires. Traction control was set at 10% slippage. Traction contol cuts the power to whatever traction can be had at 10% slippage. If I had it turned off the tires would have gone up in smoke and there would be no traction at all. This run was done in 2nd gear.

Ken

RICE RACING

yeah, I would not read too much into it.

For sure check the flow rate of the water, and if you do not have an upgraded ignition then think about investing in one down the track, I know it made an unbelievable difference to my car, as it was realy on the edge when running 300cc/min water. I used to get around it by blending the water with 50% methanol, this was easier to fire and covered up the weak spark.

Now with the upgrade set up I run I could run almost on straight water J/K !!! Try the above tips Ken and see how you go, it is a bit of stuffing around but the engine will be bullet proof once you set it up right.

Had the same thing happen to a customers car running one of my WI kits, an MSD 6A on the leadings got it running real strong with no power loss due to the WI.
I punched out 472rwhp on 20psi, it would have been interesting to disconnect the CDI and see what the power would have been ?

LUV94RX7

iTrader: (3)

I did a test on boost lag today. It's 32F degrees today. I did it in 4th gear and started at 2k rpms WOT. I used my autometer boost gauge. I set the Profec B at 20psi boost. I still have 100 octane fuel in it. At 2500rpms it was at 8psi, at 3000rpms it was at 15psi, at 3500rpms it was at 20psi.

It's funny because the roads were a little damp and it looked like the tires would have broke loost at 20psi. I felt the traction conrol kick in and cut wheelspin. I had it set for 10% slippage.

I hope this was a good test. I'm satisfied to get max boost at 3500rpms.

Ken

LUV94RX7

iTrader: (3)