i am looking to single turbo my car 1993 fd looking to see what is max PSI i can safely put in to stock engines i will do new rail and looking at 1000cc injectors i just don't want to play inside the engine to much any thing is a help

looking at HKS T04Z kit with HKS B/C

(will it be to much for stock)

 

You can't simply put a T04Z on the car and expect it to work I'm afraid.

You will have to address multiple areas like getting a new engine management system, upgrading the fuel pump, upgrading the injectors, etc etc etc.

It would help us to help you more if you stated your rear wheel horsepower goal and what boost you want to do that at? Do you want to run race gas all the time? Do you want to run on pump? Do you expect the car will last a long time, or only one season of drag racing?

Let us know what you want to do...

For example when I made my car, I wanted:

1 - pump fuel
2 - streetable performance more important than max hp
3 - target was 400 rwhp
4 - Did NOT care about keeping it emissions-legal

Soo... based on that, I did a T04S turbo at 15 PSI and I got 405 rwhp. I love it.

Tell us what your goals are

 

Not sure but I dont think thats what you should be worried about.

You will find that the block will not be able to keep up with the flow of the turbo.
I just recently tuned a stock block 13B-REW with a fairly decent sized single turbo & all the bolt ons. PFC ECU. At 15psi with an 11.5 AFR it would just not put out more than 220kw@wheels or 300rwhp. You have to port the block to cope with the increased air flow.

If you are asking about high boost I take it your looking for more power.
Stock twins @ 15psi is totaly different to single turbo 15psi. The stock block is matched to the stock turbos.

Here is an example with stock twin cars & the big difference in flow.

(1st) car, 97 FD with 99 turbos & large extended porting. Full 3" exhaust but stock DP. PFC ECU. K&N stock panel filter. All other parts stock. @ 13psi 211rwkw or 286rwhp. @ 15psi 180rwkw or 244rwhp.
The stock DP could not get rid of the exess air from the boost increase. The AFR's were sweet. Droped it back to 13psi & instantly ran 211rwkw again & again.

(2nd) car, 99 FD. Large extended porting & every bolt on you can get except larger injectors. @ the time of first tune the car had & stock DP. Both motors were built by the same shop & run on the same dyno. @ 13psi 220rwkw or 300rwhp.
Just recently installed a 3" DP, dyno power run with the exact same tune & made 235rwkw or 320rwhp.

Exhaust & internal port flow make a big differance. So I say for you if you still want that single & you have the fuel mods to keep up, Then stick some HKS or what ever cold plug you like in there & tune it to 15psi. Be sure to run some high octane gas as you have stock seals & an old motor.

Dont expect big power. Rotarys require porting to make big power.

 

i know it is not just a bolt no job! just want to know max psi that is all

 

so 15 pis is max without porting motor has 24K no it

 

Id say dont go past 15psi.

Run 13psi....its fairly safe.

Hook it all up...get it runing & tuned nicely. Save up for an engine re-build, extended porting & 3mm seals.

Then 15psi should make a nice 400rwhp for you.

 

Yea as long as you have 98ron or higher octane gas then 15psi should be fine.
You can also tune it to a nice 11.0 AFR to make it safer. You could possible get 300rwhp...anything is possible.

You might like it like that once its done. Nothing wrong with 300rwhp. You do have a better speced turbo than the FD I spoke of earlier.

Just make sure its all detonation safe. IE: dont let the tuner max it out for power. Just start low on 10psi & see how it goes. Check duty cycle & AFR. If all is fine then go up to 12psi. Check again. Keep doing that till you reach a nice safe limit.

If you make 300hp before 15psi then stay there. Its faster than stock & will last longer.

 

news flash for the noob: there's no headgasket that blows at some certain PSI. there are no rods that break at a certain horsepower.

just don't detonate

 

I will try and be as nice as I can be about this but you sir are full of ****

Many members of this forum have made more than 400rwhp on the stock REW block, unported and running reasonable boost levels. I think maybe you need to look at your timing a bit more......

I am currently making more than 375 RWP on a stock block with a IHI C-7 turbo and am right at 1bar (14PSI) but originally tuned it up to 1.4 bar but did not like the elevated IAT that came with my smallish IC. (and this block is an S5 13BT not an REW)

kenn

 

Yebo Baas!

 

+1

its in the tuning. if you feed the motor enough fuel, and the correct timing (with the right heat range plugs), boost can be up the limits of the intercooler/turbo

if you dont give the motor fuel, and the right tuning, you can pop it without "more than 3psi"

 

Just to give you an insight, most pro drag racers, dont' take the time to have crazy money in their engines, adventually it will blow when a 2 rotor is making over 1200whp. Most pros use USED POS OEM componants. Therefore you may run as much boost as you and your tuner feel is safe given the set-up(fuel, turbo, ignition, ecu, drivetrain, etc...).

I hope that answers your question.

Jackson

 

thanks guys big help

 

The stock engine can handle alot, just make sure your fueling, ignition and engine management needs are met and have a good condition engine and components to begin with. Its all in the combination of items, not just slapping a bigger turbo on.

ErnieT ran 30 lbs of boost on a Greddy T-78 on the STOCK engine and Stock ports and made well over 500 whp.

I ran 28 lbs of boost on my stock engine and stock 2mm seals with the exception of a street port.

You just cant ask, how much boost can I run, its MUCH more in depth than that,,,you need to do some research man.

Getting the heat OUT and minimizing back pressure is your key to success, along with a whole lot of other things like equal distribution of a/f ratios in each housing and etc...etc...etc...you will start to have issues with seals sticking and rotor to housing contact around 620 whp on a fresh or tighter clearanced engine. At that point you will have to start race clearance tolerances, etc...but IT'S ALL IN THE TUNING AND NOT BEING GREEDY