Max,

are you saying you can use this for a Turbo Inlet Duct?

Santoprene (TPR)/Polyester Hose
• Construction: Black, 1-ply polyester fabric with thermoplastic rubber (TPR) coating
• Reinforcement: Spring-steel wire helix
• Temperature Range: -40° to +275° F
• Compressibility: 3 to 1 (unless noted)

Get the best of rubber and plastic with this hose. More flexible than other rubber-coated fabrics, hose is made without adhesives, cements, or glues so it won't flake. Hose offers excellent resistance to chemicals and weathering. Use it for blowing and exhaust, dust collection, ventilation, hot air, and fume removal. Material is .025" thick.
Full coil extended length is 25 feet. Please order hose in 5-ft. increments.

http://www.mcmaster.com/asp/loadpage...asp?pagerange=*169,172,201&descid=29496

 

Yeah, that's my car. Isn't it sad how dirty it is? It looks like they had it under a tree. Anyhow, as for the distance from the turbo to the intercooler inlet, the M2 med SMIC is actually closer than the stock factory IC would be. It's really no big deal though; I have 2 other shops that are really good too so if this guy doesn't have it done by next week, I think I'm gonna pull the job from him. He's had plenty of time to do it. Anyhow, why don't you email some pics of your cars to me at tomsrx7@aol.com? And if you go to SoCal7s events, I'll probably go to their next gathering for Dromo1 http://www.socal7s.org/calendar/cale...tail.asp?ID=35

-Tom

 

Tom, Man you should see the Supra that he'll be working on. It's got a massive T51 Kai turbo and bad *** Veilside manifold.

 

Oh yeah, I know about the cars he works on- that's why I'm trusting him with mine He showed me one Supra that had a little over 800HP to the wheels!!! Anyhow, he better be done with mine before he starts on anything else though. I had mine there first and he slid 4 cars ahead of me, saying that they were on a rush for a show or a race or......

He's a pretty nice guy, just SLOW!!!

-Tom

 

Yeah, that's the stuff. You can get it in standard and metric sizes, black or white. I used it to replace my primary inlet on the stock turbos and it was fine after 2 years or so. I've had it on my RX6 (different size, of course) for quite a while now, too. I was fiddling with my turbo plumbing last week and it looked fine.

It won't work for hoses that see boost, but it is great for remotely mounting an air filter for IC clearance or just to get it somewhere a little cooler than right behind the radiator.

I used big hose clamps that I got from Home Depot or something like that. The only part that is less that ideal is that you have to put the clamp over the wire reinforcement. It works fine (no evidence of leaks for any of my installations so far), but it seems a tad sloppy. It is hard to cut so that it looks perfectly straight, too, so it might not be the best choice for a show car. But if you just want something cheap, durable, and perfectly functional, this stuff is hard to beat.

-Max

 

On my IC piping, I will be buying lengths of 3" diameter silicon hose, and cutting portions of it as I need. I will use generic (not just automotive specific) clamps, but very strong ones.
Most guys would call this overkill, but I am going to surround the silicon connectors with a sleeve layer of thin stainless steel just to make sure they don't flex or move much.
My IC piping will be 3" diameter thin walled stainless steel by the way, with mandrel bends. Welds around the ends of the pipes as someone suggested to avoid clamp or hose movement.

 

excellent

 

Well I stilll haven't orderd my tubing yet but am thinking of going with mild steel. For two reasons. 1- half the price of any other mandrel bent tubing and 2- I'll use the left over 3" on the exh.

The only thing that I'm slightly worried about is rusting on the inside like 82 streetracer brought up earlier. I know some stock systems use mild steel but I'm still a little worried about rusting on the inside. Will the little amount of oil the turbo lets by the seals be enough to coat the inside of it to prevent rust?

 

I went ahead and got some mild steel mandrel bends. Well see what I can do with it this weekend

 

Looks like you're gonna have some fun. How much did you pay? And why did you choose the steel over aluminum? Was it just because of the price difference?

-Tom

 

About 80 for the 4 mandral bends (2x 2.5" J bends, 2x 3" U bends).

And 58 for the fan.

The main reason I went with the mild steel is because I didn't want to spend 50/bend and most said it would work good. Another reason I went with it is I can use the left overs on my exhaust, well the 3" anyways.

 

Well after spending way too much time today I got one side of the I/C tubing done. I welded it after I took the picture.

 

What kinda welder did you use to weld it with? I was thinking MIG when I do mine, but also thought about Oxy-Acetelene (sp?).

~T.J.

 

when doing thin stuff like this a TIG welder is the only way to fly. The I/C tubing is 16 gauge. I would think a mig welder wouden't work all that well. Maybe a oxyacetylene would work ok though.

 

The carbon steel won't rust significantly on the inside assuming you run the car regularly, but, it's cheap and easy to have it ceramic coated once you're done! And you can have it most any finish or color.