Carl Byck

What is the correct torque for the nut that retains the compressor wheel? Specifically a Garrett T series (not that it matters). I am replacing the compressor wheel on my PT67, and I need to know what to torque the nut to? Any other tricks either removing, or installing the wheel? I was going to grind the major down to get it through the throat of the compressor housing, what's next . Thanks, Carl

LUPE

I big thick leather glove to hold the turbine wheel while removing/installing the nut.

I usually torque that nut down until my knuckles pop 3-4 times.

HAI-TEK7

iTrader: (31)

Dont forget the loctite.

Carl Byck

Also, I cannot get the nut off, I know it is a reverse thread. I put a small impact on it, but no luck.I am nervous about damaging the turbo during this. Any hints?

LUPE

I've always used a 1/2 inch impact........that's the only thing that's worked for me.

Carl Byck

I think I am going to chicken out, and bring it to a turbo shop. I put about 70-80 ftlbs on it, and nothing. I don't want to turn a 130.00 problem into a 1000.00 one...

Carl Byck

Nevr sure when you are serious... I used a welding glove to hold the old compressor wheel, and hit it with an 18vt cordless impact. I don't think I could hold the wheel if I put more torque to it. What a pain.

LUPE

Actually I'm being totally serious...... that turbine wheel will tear you up if you're not careful !

Bi-State Auto

Carl,
Look at the end of the shaft just to make sure it's lh thread. I have had a few custom big shaft t-4 based units come w/ the RH threads. just a thought??

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

Shaft size matters for how much torque, but specs for what I believe you have(5/16ths) is pretorque to 35in/lbs then add another 110-120* rotation. Hope that helps.

Carl Byck

It's reverse, i just decided to pay the local turbo place to dis/re-assemble it, Dropped it off on lunch, P/U after work. I will experiment with a junk one before breaking a good one. I know it's in theory a brainless 10 minute job, but I was worrried about damaging some other parts. Ther is not enough nut left on the Turbine to hold on to, so I'll let the shop do it. The first time I did coilovers on my Supra it took 6 hours, now it takes me a little over an hour to do all four corners. I just do not care to experiment with 1000.00. Thanks for getting back to me Ron. Carl

88fc3sw/HX83

What happened to it that you have to replace it?

Jim

Carl Byck

some how damaged the compressor. Hopefully the shop did not bend the shaft replacing the compressor...

RETed

Hmmm...I always thought it was 20 in-lbs.?


-Ted

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

It is dependent on shaft size. I know a 1/4" shaft is less maybe that is what your thinking of. It also will change depending on aluminum, or steel nut as well. The biggest consern is not wether it is aluminum , steel or RHT , LHT but that the wheel itself is not threaded you can very easily pull those threads off and cost you a wheel.

-S-

Bi-State Auto

The pt67/to4R wheels are not boreless.. so, no worry about threads being pulled out.

88fc3sw/HX83

Carl, any news on your turbo? Did the shop replace it without an issue?

Carl Byck

Shop replaced it, question is whether they did so without bending the shaft... Seems O'k, but I only free reved it in the garage. I have a race right after SS8, so I sure hope it's O'k. I'll be taking on a purpose built track Supra, a group of Supra owners are coming out to watch him"crush me, and those pesky Viper Competition Coupes".... We shall see, I am sure there will be video. Button willow is his home track, and it is the Twins Turbo Shop car built for some of the magazine Time Attacks. Should be interesting if every thing holds together, he weighs 3100, and is putting 650 to the wheels in track trim.

kuroi FD

You better get out there and represent!

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

650/3100lbs versus ??? You know how them Supra guys are they keep forgetting the weight You could make it even and throw a small block chev in the trunk.

88fc3sw/HX83

LOL, I was gonna say that you got a power-to-weight advantage!