Ian, do you have a regulated air compressor?
if so jack up your car, get the hose connected to the side port on the wastegate, and slowly raise the pressure on the regulator starting at 5psi and watch to see when it "starts to open" and when it is full open. see if that in any way collaborates your readings while driving.this is also a effective way to check for what spring you have.

 

Any update Ian?
Car going to be ready for Rotary Revolution?

 

Nope. Doubt it.

But I did clean up a few things.

Moved one vaccum line. Doubt that is the cause of the problem. But I am bolting everything together and see if it changes anything. Also redid the angle of the turbo and FMIC tubing and also modified the bumper to fit cleaner. Better then last year. ETC ETC/

I did strip the second 02 bung so I need to retap it.

I might just drive the car the way it is. I guess the motor will hold up for awhile with only 5psi

 

IAN, what are you running for boost control?
Also did you try the Regulated Air compressor trick, this will confirm the function of your wastegate, as well as the stiffness of your spring.

 

I don't have a air compressor.. I took apart the wastegate (AGAIN) and confirmed the spring and diaphragm. All looks ok.

I am using an APEXi AVCR.

Thanks,
Ian

 

well, if you happen to be in a place that has a regulated air compressor, make use of it.
P.S. I am having a similar problem with my Profec B I only get 5 psi. But I have found that the Profec B II keeps ressetting after I turn it off. but if I redoo the settings, it works like a charm.

 

maybe you dont have the constant wire hooked up so it remebers your settings..

 

just dont connect your EBC to the wastegate, and keep the boost line on the side of the WG. Drive it and see if makes a difference

 

I don't want to pollute Ian's thread, so could you possibly PM me what you mean?
Thanks
Jeffrey

 

no worrys. Its a related question.

 

no worrys. Its a related question.

 

^^ I think this is a good idea and is easy to do. Take the EBC out of the system and see how it runs. At this point, I really don't think there is a problem with the EBC, since an EBC should only allow you to run more boost than spring pressure, and you are getting horribly slow boost response and low boost generally, which are not things an EBC is designed to "fix".

I also like the idea of completely blocking the wastegate (sandwich a plate between the gate and the turbo manifold) and then (carefully!) roll into boost in high gear to see what happens. If you don't build boost quickly, you have a problem with the tuning, engine, or turbo, and not with the wastegate or wastegate control.

-Max

 

How does it reset?
I know mine resets the revlimiter. So, I have to press 'h'i--'low'--'hi' to get it back to my settings...

 

nope the hi settings keep just reverting back to the Stock Greddy settings, and As soon as I input the correct settings it works like a charm... but the lo settings do not errase so I don't think that I have it incorrectly wired up... because I am certain 99.9% that I wried it up correctly.

 

update.

The whole car is back together again. no leaks etc.

4260rpm = 4.3psi
4960rpm = 8.5psi
6220rpm = 9.9 psi

this was on the spring tension only. (10psi spring)

It must be the turbo!

I need to see someone else with a T04B 60-1 in person so I can see what it feels like having a working unit

 

...or it might be tuning.

It seems weird that the turbo could cause that without any noticable damage. Have you removed the turbine housing (you often can't see damage with the housing installed) to make sure the turbine blades are still there?

-Max

 

I had the turbo removed and brought to adp turbo last year. Visually they said the turbo was fine. This year I checked the turbine housing again. Looks fine. I might just have to buy another CHRA. But those things are expensive

Tuning was done by steve kan so the cars tuning should be fine.

Thanks,
Ian

 

Did you take the turbo to adp (ATP?) because you were having the same problems you are having now? If so, it sounds like there is nothing wrong with your turbo and you should look elsewhere for the true cause before spending money to replace a good turbo.

I mean check the turbine blades. To do so, you need to remove the turbine housing so that you can see the ends of the blades. Your car seems to be working too well for the turbo to be broken in some invisible way. But you might be missing some turbine blades or have some other damage that could be detected visually with the housings removed.

There was a post on here recently where the owner found that their timing was about 10 degrees retarded from what his ECU programming was set to because of a mechanical issue with the wheel on the pulley. My point in relaying this story is that even though you might have good numbers setup in your ECU program, a mechanical issue may cause the actual timing (or fuel delivery) to be different from what the numbers say.

If it was my car, I would do these things next:

- remove all the hoses from your wastegate and (carefully) try to build some boost in high gear -- it should stay shut and build boost quickly -- be sure to let off before overboosting

- try a plate (sheet metal with two holes drilled in it) to completely block your wastegate -- this test is designed to determine if your wastegate is leaking when it is "shut" -- it should do the same thing described above, be sure to let off before overboost

- remove turbine housing and look at the turbine -- are the blades all still there? Look at the compressor wheel (also with the housing removed, so you can really see it), too.

- find some way to make 10 psi of pressure (a Motive PowerBleeder brake pressure bleeder bottle can do this, and is also my favorite way to bleed brakes http://motiveproducts.com) and experiment with your wastegate a bit -- remove it from the car and see how it responds to various pressures supplied to the side port

- find any exhaust leaks you might have

- look for a dead rodent or other major restriction in the engine air flow path (intake pipe, ic pipes, intercooler, manifold, exhaust) -- for instance, do you have a restrictive IC from a moped, or an IC pipe that is nearly pinched shut?

- check timing with a timing light to verify that ECU settings and actual timing match

-Max

 

Ian,

speaking of dead rodents blocking ic pipes:

I know that this sounds stupid, but a frind of mine left a cotton shop towel stuffed in his IC piping, it blew down to his intercooler, and blocked off over half of his FMIC made for some really weird boost problems before he admitted defeat and let me look at it.

(He drives a nissan silvia with the sr20det, and didn't want a rotorhead touching his precious piece of ****).

kenn

 

Lol thats funny, because it happend to me with a shirt that I had put over the afm. This was when my car had an n/a motor. I put it over the afm and forgot about it, I turned the car on and it idled fine, but when I would drive it, it felt like a blown motor. I remembered I had the shirt on there but I thought one of my friends removed it. Anyways I found the after I took the motor out. That was on the top of the "stupid **** that I've done list".

Anyways Imma see if I video tape my turbo, to see how long it stays spining after I spin it manualy. Your turbo should be similiar.

 

Max,

Thanks for all of your help. I have spent way to much time and to many posts in regards to this.

I was going to bring this turbo to http://www.adpdist.com

I completely tore apart the turbo last summer to see if there was something wrong. Nothing was noticeable.

I am running a Greddy VSPL FMIC. Timming was checked three times and also at the dyno were we noticed that the turbo would not start to act until 4500rpmish.

I will be playing with the car alittle bit today to see if I can get anywhere with it


Kenn-chan

Everytime I had it apart I covered the wholes so I believe there should be nothing in it.

 

Here it is. The audio sucks *** as this was taken with a digicam. But you can hear when the engine stops running.

http://www.putfile.com/media.php?n=Picture-1027

 

Kenn-chan

Everytime I had it apart I covered the wholes so I believe there should be nothing in it.[/QUOTE]


thats exactly how my friend got it sucked into his, he stuffed the rag in to stop trash from going in the hole! currently hesays that one of his buddies that helped him probably left it in there, but who knows, its an easy check Ian.

kenn

 

Spins fine. No idea what mine looks like. I did last year with the car running hold the nut and stopped the turbine from spinning.

P.S Don't try that. Good way to possible loose a finger.

 

supposedly, you are supposed to hold the compressor wheel for like 5 sec for the initial install to let the oil run through the turbo. I never did that but w.e.. Actually the video was for you to evaluate your own turbo. If it spun like mine then you have some mysteriose forces actin on the spool time. But if it stops spining immediately after shutting the carr off, or if it takes a lil bit for it to start spinning when you start the car, then its either a manifold or turbo problem...