Oh, sorry about that. Still, you should have mentioned road racing. Also, it sounds like your builder specializes in drag racing, and may not have any experience with road racing.

I would think so. There are many aspects to a radiator besides size. It's just that I don't see the current setup making it on a road race course.

Good idea on the extra WP.

I was under the impression that electric pumps do not fare well unless they are operated in their design rpm range. Does the manufacturer recommend using a speed controller? What I do know is that you should never operate the engine without the water pump running because this creates hot spots. You are using a mechanical or electrical thermostat, right?

The dry bearing issue isn't really something that you can fix, or necessarily needs to be fixed. The dry vs. wet bearing issue is just a preference, somewhat like ball bearing vs. journal bearing turbos, turbochargers vs. superchargers, air-air vs. air-liquid intercoolers, etc. If you are having second thoughts on the dry bearing, you can just replace the turbo with one that has a wet bearing, or you can rebuild it with a wet bearing center section. It may be easier to just use what you have and see how it works. It is pretty easy to add another oil cooler later, if needed.

The oil serves two primary functions on the turbocharger:
1) It is the fluid used in fluid bearings and ball-bearing pressure packs. Fluid acts as both a lubricant and as a locating component for the shaft.
2) It draws heat away from the center section.

If heat were not an issue, the bearing would not require any oil flow, and there would be no such thing as water-cooled bearings.

Here is a forum thread on the subject of wet vs. dry bearings:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?p=3307443

 

It's a Davies, Craig water pump and controller. They are designed to work together and require the removal of the standard thermostat. Lots of folks down under have been using the same setup with great results.
More information can be found at http://www.daviescraig.com.au/main/display.asp?pid=8

 

There is no way in hell that thing will stay cool in a road race environment. You would probably run to hot in warm weather with that rad/fan setup even without the ic in fron of everything.
Let me guess, you had to get a shorter radiator to allow the ic pipes to go over the top of it therefore eliminarting even more surface area. Maybe not.

The work is very well and looks great too. I just think you need to rethink the cooling setup.

 

I will redo the rad! But the size is simular to an Koyo FD radiator, so I hope IŽll work without or with another shroud.

The rad is 4" lower, but 2" wider and 2" thick compared to a stock one.

 

I have looked up the size difference between my rad and the FD koyo rad, and my rad is bigger in every direction! So with another shroud and some serious ducting, do you still think itŽll overheat?

Thanks for your help!

- Oscar

 

That shroud is the only thing I'd worry about for now if you have proper ducting and the radiator is larger.

Don't run a TII hood on the track with a fmic either. This inhibits airflow through the ic/rad by essentially 'pressurizing' (though not under pressure) the engine compartment and preventing optimal airflow through the front of the car.
I ran WAY to hot with a very similiar setup to yours but with a bigger rad and better fan setup under a TII hood. I also have very nice custom sealed aluminum ducting.
Switching to an na hood the temps dropped by 10+ degrees with all else being equal, including outside temp.
I now have a Panspeed reverse cowl hood that dropped my temps another 15 degrees.

About the best fan/ shroud setup I have seen for a TII is from vintageair.com
An 18" 3800 cfm fan with a plastic 68 camaro fan shroud can be made to fit and look like a factory installation. I saw it on carx7's ride and had to get the same setup for myself
The front end of my car is like a vacuum cleaner when the car is stopped with the fan on.

 

i really like the brake booster line

 

Dave, I ran an FMIC on a ~325rwhp FC, with a stock hood(cantilevered), and a hole in the bumper. My temps were fine(190 oil, 200 water). Take a look at my new set-up(you've seen it), I guarantee temps in the 200 range oil, and water with ~450rwhp with my new set up. that includes a 33x2.5x10 FMIC. Carl

 

Wow!

Nice work. Even all the bolts look brand new. Keep up the great work.

Ian

 

i want to do a reverse vent setup too now i have a fmic. have you got any pics of yours???

 

Manifold finished!

 

Yep, me too

umm, how much to make a manifold?

 

I know Im jumping on this thread a little late, but I thought I could share some info. I am running essentially a black magic fan with a mariah fiberglass shroud. The shroud has a high-pressure rubber flapper that opens when the car is at speed and allows air to pass through the radiator and through the shroud. But stopped, its closed and allows for full circulation of air.
Perhaps instead of trashing the shroud, maybe cut a few holes near the bottom and pop-rivet in a thick piece of rubber to allow the air pass through at high speeds...

 

I have a similar set-up from with dual fans, and intergal shroud from SPAL. It's on my Griffin custom radiator(a little larger than a mazda comp one). But it is spaced out, and sort of connical to clear the fans. Carl

 

Do you have a picture of the shroud?

I checked Mariah Motorsport's website, and couldn't find anything on it

 

Its oooold school, my friend! I doubt they still make it, it was waay pricey back in 96
Ugh, shows you how long Ivd had 2nd gens...

Tommorrow, when there is some daylight, ill take some pics if you guys want.

 

damm double pst!

 

pretty pls

 

I second that

 

Here is a picture of the shroud setup I have:

 

wow purty manifold

 

Thanks!