Turbonetics T66 FC engine bay...
#26
Rotorhead
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
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Originally Posted by molehill
When I ordered the rad I went with the stock one to their shop and told him that I wanted a 4" lower but as wide as it could be made and still fit in the car. I said that the car is first hand a streetcar but that I would test drag and track events with it!
Originally Posted by molehill
If I remove the sheet and direct the airflow with ducting trough the rad, then I should be able to use it in the street, right?
Originally Posted by molehill
IŽve already bought an extra WP, and I only drive the car about 1500 miles each year! I will be using a controller to adjust the speed of the pump, so it will not run it at full speed al the time...
I was under the impression that electric pumps do not fare well unless they are operated in their design rpm range. Does the manufacturer recommend using a speed controller? What I do know is that you should never operate the engine without the water pump running because this creates hot spots. You are using a mechanical or electrical thermostat, right?
Originally Posted by molehill
Will a bigger oilcooler fix the dry bearing issue? I asked my turbo supplier if the oiltemp would be increased with a oilcooled only turbo, but he said that the oil doesnŽt do much off cooling just lubricant the bearings.
The oil serves two primary functions on the turbocharger:
1) It is the fluid used in fluid bearings and ball-bearing pressure packs. Fluid acts as both a lubricant and as a locating component for the shaft.
2) It draws heat away from the center section.
If heat were not an issue, the bearing would not require any oil flow, and there would be no such thing as water-cooled bearings.
Here is a forum thread on the subject of wet vs. dry bearings:
https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/oil-cool-oil-coolant-cool-housing-331369/#post3307443
#27
Will u do me a kindness?
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
Good idea on the extra WP.
I was under the impression that electric pumps do not fare well unless they are operated in their design rpm range. Does the manufacturer recommend using a speed controller? What I do know is that you should never operate the engine without the water pump running because this creates hot spots. You are using a mechanical or electrical thermostat, right?
I was under the impression that electric pumps do not fare well unless they are operated in their design rpm range. Does the manufacturer recommend using a speed controller? What I do know is that you should never operate the engine without the water pump running because this creates hot spots. You are using a mechanical or electrical thermostat, right?
More information can be found at http://www.daviescraig.com.au/main/display.asp?pid=8
#28
I'll blow it up real good
iTrader: (1)
There is no way in hell that thing will stay cool in a road race environment. You would probably run to hot in warm weather with that rad/fan setup even without the ic in fron of everything.
Let me guess, you had to get a shorter radiator to allow the ic pipes to go over the top of it therefore eliminarting even more surface area. Maybe not.
The work is very well and looks great too. I just think you need to rethink the cooling setup.
Let me guess, you had to get a shorter radiator to allow the ic pipes to go over the top of it therefore eliminarting even more surface area. Maybe not.
The work is very well and looks great too. I just think you need to rethink the cooling setup.
#29
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Originally Posted by RX-Heven
There is no way in hell that thing will stay cool in a road race environment. You would probably run to hot in warm weather with that rad/fan setup even without the ic in fron of everything.
Let me guess, you had to get a shorter radiator to allow the ic pipes to go over the top of it therefore eliminarting even more surface area. Maybe not.
The work is very well and looks great too. I just think you need to rethink the cooling setup.
Let me guess, you had to get a shorter radiator to allow the ic pipes to go over the top of it therefore eliminarting even more surface area. Maybe not.
The work is very well and looks great too. I just think you need to rethink the cooling setup.
The rad is 4" lower, but 2" wider and 2" thick compared to a stock one.
#30
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I have looked up the size difference between my rad and the FD koyo rad, and my rad is bigger in every direction! So with another shroud and some serious ducting, do you still think itŽll overheat?
Thanks for your help!
- Oscar
Thanks for your help!
- Oscar
#31
I'll blow it up real good
iTrader: (1)
That shroud is the only thing I'd worry about for now if you have proper ducting and the radiator is larger.
Don't run a TII hood on the track with a fmic either. This inhibits airflow through the ic/rad by essentially 'pressurizing' (though not under pressure) the engine compartment and preventing optimal airflow through the front of the car.
I ran WAY to hot with a very similiar setup to yours but with a bigger rad and better fan setup under a TII hood. I also have very nice custom sealed aluminum ducting.
Switching to an na hood the temps dropped by 10+ degrees with all else being equal, including outside temp.
I now have a Panspeed reverse cowl hood that dropped my temps another 15 degrees.
About the best fan/ shroud setup I have seen for a TII is from vintageair.com
An 18" 3800 cfm fan with a plastic 68 camaro fan shroud can be made to fit and look like a factory installation. I saw it on carx7's ride and had to get the same setup for myself
The front end of my car is like a vacuum cleaner when the car is stopped with the fan on.
Don't run a TII hood on the track with a fmic either. This inhibits airflow through the ic/rad by essentially 'pressurizing' (though not under pressure) the engine compartment and preventing optimal airflow through the front of the car.
I ran WAY to hot with a very similiar setup to yours but with a bigger rad and better fan setup under a TII hood. I also have very nice custom sealed aluminum ducting.
Switching to an na hood the temps dropped by 10+ degrees with all else being equal, including outside temp.
I now have a Panspeed reverse cowl hood that dropped my temps another 15 degrees.
About the best fan/ shroud setup I have seen for a TII is from vintageair.com
An 18" 3800 cfm fan with a plastic 68 camaro fan shroud can be made to fit and look like a factory installation. I saw it on carx7's ride and had to get the same setup for myself
The front end of my car is like a vacuum cleaner when the car is stopped with the fan on.
Last edited by RX-Heven; 03-01-05 at 12:17 PM.
#33
Mad Man
Originally Posted by RX-Heven
That shroud is the only thing I'd worry about for now if you have proper ducting and the radiator is larger.
Don't run a TII hood on the track with a fmic either. This inhibits airflow through the ic/rad by essentially 'pressurizing' (though not under pressure) the engine compartment and preventing optimal airflow through the front of the car.
I ran WAY to hot with a very similiar setup to yours but with a bigger rad and better fan setup under a TII hood. I also have very nice custom sealed aluminum ducting.
Switching to an na hood the temps dropped by 10+ degrees with all else being equal, including outside temp.
I now have a Panspeed reverse cowl hood that dropped my temps another 15 degrees.
About the best fan/ shroud setup I have seen for a TII is from vintageair.com
An 18" 3800 cfm fan with a plastic 68 camaro fan shroud can be made to fit and look like a factory installation. I saw it on carx7's ride and had to get the same setup for myself
The front end of my car is like a vacuum cleaner when the car is stopped with the fan on.
Don't run a TII hood on the track with a fmic either. This inhibits airflow through the ic/rad by essentially 'pressurizing' (though not under pressure) the engine compartment and preventing optimal airflow through the front of the car.
I ran WAY to hot with a very similiar setup to yours but with a bigger rad and better fan setup under a TII hood. I also have very nice custom sealed aluminum ducting.
Switching to an na hood the temps dropped by 10+ degrees with all else being equal, including outside temp.
I now have a Panspeed reverse cowl hood that dropped my temps another 15 degrees.
About the best fan/ shroud setup I have seen for a TII is from vintageair.com
An 18" 3800 cfm fan with a plastic 68 camaro fan shroud can be made to fit and look like a factory installation. I saw it on carx7's ride and had to get the same setup for myself
The front end of my car is like a vacuum cleaner when the car is stopped with the fan on.
#35
Pew Pew Pew
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Originally Posted by RX-Heven
That shroud is the only thing I'd worry about for now if you have proper ducting and the radiator is larger.
Don't run a TII hood on the track with a fmic either. This inhibits airflow through the ic/rad by essentially 'pressurizing' (though not under pressure) the engine compartment and preventing optimal airflow through the front of the car.
I ran WAY to hot with a very similiar setup to yours but with a bigger rad and better fan setup under a TII hood. I also have very nice custom sealed aluminum ducting.
Switching to an na hood the temps dropped by 10+ degrees with all else being equal, including outside temp.
I now have a Panspeed reverse cowl hood that dropped my temps another 15 degrees.
About the best fan/ shroud setup I have seen for a TII is from vintageair.com
An 18" 3800 cfm fan with a plastic 68 camaro fan shroud can be made to fit and look like a factory installation. I saw it on carx7's ride and had to get the same setup for myself
The front end of my car is like a vacuum cleaner when the car is stopped with the fan on.
Don't run a TII hood on the track with a fmic either. This inhibits airflow through the ic/rad by essentially 'pressurizing' (though not under pressure) the engine compartment and preventing optimal airflow through the front of the car.
I ran WAY to hot with a very similiar setup to yours but with a bigger rad and better fan setup under a TII hood. I also have very nice custom sealed aluminum ducting.
Switching to an na hood the temps dropped by 10+ degrees with all else being equal, including outside temp.
I now have a Panspeed reverse cowl hood that dropped my temps another 15 degrees.
About the best fan/ shroud setup I have seen for a TII is from vintageair.com
An 18" 3800 cfm fan with a plastic 68 camaro fan shroud can be made to fit and look like a factory installation. I saw it on carx7's ride and had to get the same setup for myself
The front end of my car is like a vacuum cleaner when the car is stopped with the fan on.
#37
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally Posted by RX-Heven
About the best fan/ shroud setup I have seen for a TII is from vintageair.com
An 18" 3800 cfm fan with a plastic 68 camaro fan shroud can be made to fit and look like a factory installation. I saw it on carx7's ride and had to get the same setup for myself
The front end of my car is like a vacuum cleaner when the car is stopped with the fan on.
An 18" 3800 cfm fan with a plastic 68 camaro fan shroud can be made to fit and look like a factory installation. I saw it on carx7's ride and had to get the same setup for myself
The front end of my car is like a vacuum cleaner when the car is stopped with the fan on.
Yep, me too
umm, how much to make a manifold?
Last edited by 88fc3sw/HX83; 03-11-05 at 09:54 PM.
#38
I Raise Chickens
I know Im jumping on this thread a little late, but I thought I could share some info. I am running essentially a black magic fan with a mariah fiberglass shroud. The shroud has a high-pressure rubber flapper that opens when the car is at speed and allows air to pass through the radiator and through the shroud. But stopped, its closed and allows for full circulation of air.
Perhaps instead of trashing the shroud, maybe cut a few holes near the bottom and pop-rivet in a thick piece of rubber to allow the air pass through at high speeds...
Perhaps instead of trashing the shroud, maybe cut a few holes near the bottom and pop-rivet in a thick piece of rubber to allow the air pass through at high speeds...
#39
Mad Man
I have a similar set-up from with dual fans, and intergal shroud from SPAL. It's on my Griffin custom radiator(a little larger than a mazda comp one). But it is spaced out, and sort of connical to clear the fans. Carl
#40
B O R I C U A
iTrader: (14)
Originally Posted by cymfc3s
I know Im jumping on this thread a little late, but I thought I could share some info. I am running essentially a black magic fan with a mariah fiberglass shroud. The shroud has a high-pressure rubber flapper that opens when the car is at speed and allows air to pass through the radiator and through the shroud. But stopped, its closed and allows for full circulation of air.
Perhaps instead of trashing the shroud, maybe cut a few holes near the bottom and pop-rivet in a thick piece of rubber to allow the air pass through at high speeds...
Perhaps instead of trashing the shroud, maybe cut a few holes near the bottom and pop-rivet in a thick piece of rubber to allow the air pass through at high speeds...
I checked Mariah Motorsport's website, and couldn't find anything on it
Last edited by KNONFS; 03-13-05 at 05:14 PM.
#41
I Raise Chickens
Originally Posted by KNONFS
Do you have a picture of the shroud?
I checked Mariah Motorsport's website, and couldn't find anything on it
I checked Mariah Motorsport's website, and couldn't find anything on it
Its oooold school, my friend! I doubt they still make it, it was waay pricey back in 96
Ugh, shows you how long Ivd had 2nd gens...
Tommorrow, when there is some daylight, ill take some pics if you guys want.
#43
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally Posted by cymfc3s
Its oooold school, my friend! I doubt they still make it, it was waay pricey back in 96
Ugh, shows you how long Ivd had 2nd gens...
Tommorrow, when there is some daylight, ill take some pics if you guys want.
Ugh, shows you how long Ivd had 2nd gens...
Tommorrow, when there is some daylight, ill take some pics if you guys want.
pretty pls
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