Single Turbo RX-7's Questions about all aspects of single turbo setups.

Turbonetics T66 FC engine bay...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-27-05, 03:42 PM
  #26  
Rotorhead

 
Evil Aviator's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Posts: 9,136
Likes: 0
Received 39 Likes on 33 Posts
Originally Posted by molehill
When I ordered the rad I went with the stock one to their shop and told him that I wanted a 4" lower but as wide as it could be made and still fit in the car. I said that the car is first hand a streetcar but that I would test drag and track events with it!
Oh, sorry about that. Still, you should have mentioned road racing. Also, it sounds like your builder specializes in drag racing, and may not have any experience with road racing.

Originally Posted by molehill
If I remove the sheet and direct the airflow with ducting trough the rad, then I should be able to use it in the street, right?
I would think so. There are many aspects to a radiator besides size. It's just that I don't see the current setup making it on a road race course.

Originally Posted by molehill
IŽve already bought an extra WP, and I only drive the car about 1500 miles each year! I will be using a controller to adjust the speed of the pump, so it will not run it at full speed al the time...
Good idea on the extra WP.

I was under the impression that electric pumps do not fare well unless they are operated in their design rpm range. Does the manufacturer recommend using a speed controller? What I do know is that you should never operate the engine without the water pump running because this creates hot spots. You are using a mechanical or electrical thermostat, right?

Originally Posted by molehill
Will a bigger oilcooler fix the dry bearing issue? I asked my turbo supplier if the oiltemp would be increased with a oilcooled only turbo, but he said that the oil doesnŽt do much off cooling just lubricant the bearings.
The dry bearing issue isn't really something that you can fix, or necessarily needs to be fixed. The dry vs. wet bearing issue is just a preference, somewhat like ball bearing vs. journal bearing turbos, turbochargers vs. superchargers, air-air vs. air-liquid intercoolers, etc. If you are having second thoughts on the dry bearing, you can just replace the turbo with one that has a wet bearing, or you can rebuild it with a wet bearing center section. It may be easier to just use what you have and see how it works. It is pretty easy to add another oil cooler later, if needed.

The oil serves two primary functions on the turbocharger:
1) It is the fluid used in fluid bearings and ball-bearing pressure packs. Fluid acts as both a lubricant and as a locating component for the shaft.
2) It draws heat away from the center section.

If heat were not an issue, the bearing would not require any oil flow, and there would be no such thing as water-cooled bearings.

Here is a forum thread on the subject of wet vs. dry bearings:
https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/oil-cool-oil-coolant-cool-housing-331369/#post3307443
Old 02-27-05, 04:02 PM
  #27  
Will u do me a kindness?

iTrader: (2)
 
the_glass_man's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Parlor City, NY
Posts: 5,031
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
Good idea on the extra WP.

I was under the impression that electric pumps do not fare well unless they are operated in their design rpm range. Does the manufacturer recommend using a speed controller? What I do know is that you should never operate the engine without the water pump running because this creates hot spots. You are using a mechanical or electrical thermostat, right?
It's a Davies, Craig water pump and controller. They are designed to work together and require the removal of the standard thermostat. Lots of folks down under have been using the same setup with great results.
More information can be found at http://www.daviescraig.com.au/main/display.asp?pid=8
Old 02-28-05, 01:45 PM
  #28  
I'll blow it up real good

iTrader: (1)
 
RX-Heven's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 2,390
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
There is no way in hell that thing will stay cool in a road race environment. You would probably run to hot in warm weather with that rad/fan setup even without the ic in fron of everything.
Let me guess, you had to get a shorter radiator to allow the ic pipes to go over the top of it therefore eliminarting even more surface area. Maybe not.

The work is very well and looks great too. I just think you need to rethink the cooling setup.
Old 02-28-05, 02:17 PM
  #29  
Full Member

Thread Starter
 
molehill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: sweden
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by RX-Heven
There is no way in hell that thing will stay cool in a road race environment. You would probably run to hot in warm weather with that rad/fan setup even without the ic in fron of everything.
Let me guess, you had to get a shorter radiator to allow the ic pipes to go over the top of it therefore eliminarting even more surface area. Maybe not.

The work is very well and looks great too. I just think you need to rethink the cooling setup.
I will redo the rad! But the size is simular to an Koyo FD radiator, so I hope IŽll work without or with another shroud.

The rad is 4" lower, but 2" wider and 2" thick compared to a stock one.
Old 03-01-05, 07:20 AM
  #30  
Full Member

Thread Starter
 
molehill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: sweden
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I have looked up the size difference between my rad and the FD koyo rad, and my rad is bigger in every direction! So with another shroud and some serious ducting, do you still think itŽll overheat?

Thanks for your help!

- Oscar
Old 03-01-05, 12:03 PM
  #31  
I'll blow it up real good

iTrader: (1)
 
RX-Heven's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 2,390
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
That shroud is the only thing I'd worry about for now if you have proper ducting and the radiator is larger.

Don't run a TII hood on the track with a fmic either. This inhibits airflow through the ic/rad by essentially 'pressurizing' (though not under pressure) the engine compartment and preventing optimal airflow through the front of the car.
I ran WAY to hot with a very similiar setup to yours but with a bigger rad and better fan setup under a TII hood. I also have very nice custom sealed aluminum ducting.
Switching to an na hood the temps dropped by 10+ degrees with all else being equal, including outside temp.
I now have a Panspeed reverse cowl hood that dropped my temps another 15 degrees.

About the best fan/ shroud setup I have seen for a TII is from vintageair.com
An 18" 3800 cfm fan with a plastic 68 camaro fan shroud can be made to fit and look like a factory installation. I saw it on carx7's ride and had to get the same setup for myself
The front end of my car is like a vacuum cleaner when the car is stopped with the fan on.

Last edited by RX-Heven; 03-01-05 at 12:17 PM.
Old 03-02-05, 01:11 AM
  #32  
i am not a girl

iTrader: (13)
 
Kahren's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: CT
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
i really like the brake booster line
Old 03-02-05, 01:18 AM
  #33  
Mad Man

 
Carl Byck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Big Island Hawaii
Posts: 2,758
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by RX-Heven
That shroud is the only thing I'd worry about for now if you have proper ducting and the radiator is larger.

Don't run a TII hood on the track with a fmic either. This inhibits airflow through the ic/rad by essentially 'pressurizing' (though not under pressure) the engine compartment and preventing optimal airflow through the front of the car.
I ran WAY to hot with a very similiar setup to yours but with a bigger rad and better fan setup under a TII hood. I also have very nice custom sealed aluminum ducting.
Switching to an na hood the temps dropped by 10+ degrees with all else being equal, including outside temp.
I now have a Panspeed reverse cowl hood that dropped my temps another 15 degrees.

About the best fan/ shroud setup I have seen for a TII is from vintageair.com
An 18" 3800 cfm fan with a plastic 68 camaro fan shroud can be made to fit and look like a factory installation. I saw it on carx7's ride and had to get the same setup for myself
The front end of my car is like a vacuum cleaner when the car is stopped with the fan on.
Dave, I ran an FMIC on a ~325rwhp FC, with a stock hood(cantilevered), and a hole in the bumper. My temps were fine(190 oil, 200 water). Take a look at my new set-up(you've seen it), I guarantee temps in the 200 range oil, and water with ~450rwhp with my new set up. that includes a 33x2.5x10 FMIC. Carl
Old 03-02-05, 06:09 AM
  #34  
IAN
Rotary Reborn!

iTrader: (3)
 
IAN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Canada
Posts: 5,284
Received 9 Likes on 6 Posts
Wow!

Nice work. Even all the bolts look brand new. Keep up the great work.

Ian
Old 03-02-05, 06:31 AM
  #35  
Pew Pew Pew

 
madaz07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: sunshine coast Australia
Posts: 368
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by RX-Heven
That shroud is the only thing I'd worry about for now if you have proper ducting and the radiator is larger.

Don't run a TII hood on the track with a fmic either. This inhibits airflow through the ic/rad by essentially 'pressurizing' (though not under pressure) the engine compartment and preventing optimal airflow through the front of the car.
I ran WAY to hot with a very similiar setup to yours but with a bigger rad and better fan setup under a TII hood. I also have very nice custom sealed aluminum ducting.
Switching to an na hood the temps dropped by 10+ degrees with all else being equal, including outside temp.
I now have a Panspeed reverse cowl hood that dropped my temps another 15 degrees.

About the best fan/ shroud setup I have seen for a TII is from vintageair.com
An 18" 3800 cfm fan with a plastic 68 camaro fan shroud can be made to fit and look like a factory installation. I saw it on carx7's ride and had to get the same setup for myself
The front end of my car is like a vacuum cleaner when the car is stopped with the fan on.
i want to do a reverse vent setup too now i have a fmic. have you got any pics of yours???
Old 03-11-05, 07:18 PM
  #36  
Full Member

Thread Starter
 
molehill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: sweden
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Manifold finished!

Old 03-11-05, 09:38 PM
  #37  
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
 
88fc3sw/HX83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Oregon
Posts: 930
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by RX-Heven
About the best fan/ shroud setup I have seen for a TII is from vintageair.com
An 18" 3800 cfm fan with a plastic 68 camaro fan shroud can be made to fit and look like a factory installation. I saw it on carx7's ride and had to get the same setup for myself
The front end of my car is like a vacuum cleaner when the car is stopped with the fan on.


Yep, me too

umm, how much to make a manifold?

Last edited by 88fc3sw/HX83; 03-11-05 at 09:54 PM.
Old 03-13-05, 12:47 PM
  #38  
I Raise Chickens

 
cymfc3s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Half Moon Bay, CA
Posts: 1,219
Received 35 Likes on 17 Posts
I know Im jumping on this thread a little late, but I thought I could share some info. I am running essentially a black magic fan with a mariah fiberglass shroud. The shroud has a high-pressure rubber flapper that opens when the car is at speed and allows air to pass through the radiator and through the shroud. But stopped, its closed and allows for full circulation of air.
Perhaps instead of trashing the shroud, maybe cut a few holes near the bottom and pop-rivet in a thick piece of rubber to allow the air pass through at high speeds...
Old 03-13-05, 02:57 PM
  #39  
Mad Man

 
Carl Byck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Big Island Hawaii
Posts: 2,758
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
I have a similar set-up from with dual fans, and intergal shroud from SPAL. It's on my Griffin custom radiator(a little larger than a mazda comp one). But it is spaced out, and sort of connical to clear the fans. Carl
Old 03-13-05, 05:04 PM
  #40  
B O R I C U A

iTrader: (14)
 
KNONFS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: VA
Posts: 5,480
Received 35 Likes on 29 Posts
Originally Posted by cymfc3s
I know Im jumping on this thread a little late, but I thought I could share some info. I am running essentially a black magic fan with a mariah fiberglass shroud. The shroud has a high-pressure rubber flapper that opens when the car is at speed and allows air to pass through the radiator and through the shroud. But stopped, its closed and allows for full circulation of air.
Perhaps instead of trashing the shroud, maybe cut a few holes near the bottom and pop-rivet in a thick piece of rubber to allow the air pass through at high speeds...
Do you have a picture of the shroud?

I checked Mariah Motorsport's website, and couldn't find anything on it

Last edited by KNONFS; 03-13-05 at 05:14 PM.
Old 03-13-05, 07:21 PM
  #41  
I Raise Chickens

 
cymfc3s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Half Moon Bay, CA
Posts: 1,219
Received 35 Likes on 17 Posts
Originally Posted by KNONFS
Do you have a picture of the shroud?

I checked Mariah Motorsport's website, and couldn't find anything on it

Its oooold school, my friend! I doubt they still make it, it was waay pricey back in 96
Ugh, shows you how long Ivd had 2nd gens...

Tommorrow, when there is some daylight, ill take some pics if you guys want.
Old 03-13-05, 10:46 PM
  #42  
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
 
88fc3sw/HX83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Oregon
Posts: 930
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
damm double pst!
Old 03-13-05, 10:47 PM
  #43  
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
 
88fc3sw/HX83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Oregon
Posts: 930
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by cymfc3s
Its oooold school, my friend! I doubt they still make it, it was waay pricey back in 96
Ugh, shows you how long Ivd had 2nd gens...

Tommorrow, when there is some daylight, ill take some pics if you guys want.

pretty pls
Old 03-14-05, 06:14 AM
  #44  
B O R I C U A

iTrader: (14)
 
KNONFS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: VA
Posts: 5,480
Received 35 Likes on 29 Posts
Originally Posted by 88fc3sw/HX83
pretty pls
I second that
Old 03-14-05, 07:59 PM
  #45  
I Raise Chickens

 
cymfc3s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Half Moon Bay, CA
Posts: 1,219
Received 35 Likes on 17 Posts
Here is a picture of the shroud setup I have:
Attached Thumbnails Turbonetics T66 FC engine bay...-fanshroud-001.jpg   Turbonetics T66 FC engine bay...-fanshroud-002.jpg  
Old 03-14-05, 08:09 PM
  #46  
Lava Surfer

 
bingoboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Kailua, HI
Posts: 2,354
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
wow purty manifold
Old 03-16-05, 10:39 AM
  #47  
B O R I C U A

iTrader: (14)
 
KNONFS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: VA
Posts: 5,480
Received 35 Likes on 29 Posts
Originally Posted by cymfc3s
Here is a picture of the shroud setup I have:
Thanks!

Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
07-01-23 04:40 PM
stickmantijuana
Microtech
30
04-23-16 06:37 PM
82streetracer
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
7
08-23-15 09:28 AM
ChrisRX8PR
Single Turbo RX-7's
18
08-21-15 01:56 PM



Quick Reply: Turbonetics T66 FC engine bay...



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:11 AM.