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Turbo manifold fabrication☺ trying to build my own..

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Old 02-03-15, 10:12 AM
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You can get the stainless elbows from Mcmaster Carr. After positioning my turbo I found I needed 1) 2" radious 90° 1) 3" radious 90° 1) 45° and a short straight. Coming out of the rear port you can use the 3" radious and from there to the t4 flange use the 2" radious 90° so you end up with an s curve. Coming out of the front port you will need about a 2" straight and then 45° into the t4. This is all assuming you position your turbo like mine. I did my best to position my turbo the same as Elliot does from turbo source. They seem to have established a sound manifold for the efr series and I didn't see any reason to reinvent the wheel.
Old 02-04-15, 08:40 PM
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316 is pretty much the worst stainless in a high heat situation, 321 is ideal but hard to get your hands on. I'm just using 304 for mine.
Old 02-04-15, 11:18 PM
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You don't have to buy our entire kit to get the manifold, but I won't sell it without the turbo. We have too much time invested into testing, etc that I simply won't sell it for what a " welder" will make one for.
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Old 02-05-15, 09:43 AM
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if any of you guys want my custom bent 11 gauge tubing and both flanges... feel free to pm me. I'm not using it and it's wasting away in my garage. willing to sell it cheap
Old 02-05-15, 01:16 PM
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here's a pic of the stuff

Old 02-06-15, 07:19 AM
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Turbo manifold fabrication☺ trying to build my own..-forumrunner_20150206_071845.jpg

Linder power systems makes these for cutting your collector merges.
Old 02-06-15, 09:29 AM
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Tool ****, ooohh, aaahh!

Stuff like that is great, and can certainly up the level of quality for a builder ( pro or DIYer).

But really at some point, what is the cost/ benefit, and at what point do you just source your parts instead of building them yourself?
Old 02-07-15, 01:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Slow Rotor
316 is pretty much the worst stainless in a high heat situation, 321 is ideal but hard to get your hands on. I'm just using 304 for mine.
Dunno where you come up with that, the martensitic grades are much inferior. 316 tensile, short of melting v 304, has a margin in it's favour for everything I've seen at typical rotary temps, though pretty trivial in the scheme of things.

Reid Washbon has a nice turbo flange if using tube over a pipe fabrication - support for the turbo mandatory. Rather than the usual laser cut flange out of plate, has a machined recess to accept the tubes directly for less stuffing around.
Old 02-07-15, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Vicoor
Tool ****, ooohh, aaahh!

Stuff like that is great, and can certainly up the level of quality for a builder ( pro or DIYer).

But really at some point, what is the cost/ benefit, and at what point do you just source your parts instead of building them yourself?
I agree. at a certain point its more about saving time and just using some prefab parts, especially at a professional level. Of course, there are not prefab parts for all situations.
Old 02-07-15, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by silverTRD
I agree. at a certain point its more about saving time and just using some prefab parts, especially at a professional level. Of course, there are not prefab parts for all situations.
The payoff ($) for tools is usually is when you are using them all the time. Like the fab shops we buy the prefabbed parts from. The benefit from using tools like that for low volume jobs is the enhanced quality of build you get from proper fit up.
Old 02-07-15, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by billyboy
Dunno where you come up with that, the martensitic grades are much inferior. 316 tensile, short of melting v 304, has a margin in it's favour for everything I've seen at typical rotary temps, though pretty trivial in the scheme of things.

Reid Washbon has a nice turbo flange if using tube over a pipe fabrication - support for the turbo mandatory. Rather than the usual laser cut flange out of plate, has a machined recess to accept the tubes directly for less stuffing around.
Sorry I had a brain fart. I actually use 304. I just checked my material list. I haven't had a manifold crack in over 10 years.
Old 02-11-15, 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by IRPerformance
I prefer stainless for all the piping. Either 316 or 318. The flanges I like to use mild steel because it is more resistant to warping. People get away with stainless flanges but then they make them super thick and it negates the weight savings.
I'm almost considering making a full mild steel manifold if I can't find a place to purchase 321 ss. Where do you get 316 and 318?
Old 02-12-15, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by GrossPolluter
I'm almost considering making a full mild steel manifold if I can't find a place to purchase 321 ss. Where do you get 316 and 318?
Use 304. I made a typo above. I've been using 304 for over 10 years and have yet to have a manifold crack. Thats with repeated track use

Last edited by IRPerformance; 02-12-15 at 12:35 PM.
Old 02-17-15, 09:50 PM
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I have decided to sell the manifold as I have been getting a lot of requests for it..

EFR IWG Rx7 Turbo Manifold

We have 5 manifolds and 5 downpipes in stock...
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Old 02-18-15, 08:26 AM
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Elliot, what is the IWG bracket?
Old 02-18-15, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by silverTRD
Elliot, what is the IWG bracket?
I reada description that was on another page and it sounds like the born warner actuator cannot fir so he has another relocation or another actuator. Something like that
Old 02-18-15, 01:22 PM
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Correct, if you put the turbo down low.. The BW one cannot physically work with the orientation of the oil feed. There is only something like 270 of mounting holes for cast into the back plate( which does not rotate independently of the bearing housing). It will probably take you a good 4+ hours if you pay someone to hand fabricate a bracket FYI( over 2x the cost of mine).
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Old 02-19-15, 05:11 PM
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Does this kit fit in a FD with a cosmo swapped upper and lower intake manifold?

Nm, I read that it fits.
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