TinMan09

iTrader: (9)

So i've got an issue with the turbo to Manifold bolts keep backing out and getting loose. I've tried high temp loctite, I've used "high temp" lock washers that end up heated up and flattened out. I'm using lock nuts too that are "high temp", but they still keep backing out. Any suggestions?

TinMan09

iTrader: (9)

anybody?

Brekyrself

iTrader: (30)

These were suggested for a similar situation.

Nord-Lock wedge-locking washers

Mrmatt3465

iTrader: (10)

Safety wire em.

TinMan09

iTrader: (9)

Can someone explain the safety wire thing as i've never seen it done myself. Also the Nord Lock washers are junk from personal experience. I've used them before on my ws6 and they do worse than normal lock washers.

Brigdh

iTrader: (9)

Imports Locking Header Bolt Kits | Locking Bolts

TinMan09

iTrader: (9)

Thats interesting. Any personal experience?

Brigdh

iTrader: (9)

No, but a couple of people I race with recommended them to someone with a similar issue. I generally trust their recommendations.

TinMan09

iTrader: (9)

I'll have to look into giving them a shot.

Jobro

iTrader: (2)

Another option!

10mm (1.5 pitch) Stud : atpturbo.com

10mm (1.5 pitch) Nut Locking Head : atpturbo.com

I'm pretty sure the most reliable way of doing it is having the manifold flange holes tapped, and then have studs in those with those copper looking locknuts on it.

I've lost a a bolt or 2 like you are talking about and even had bolts fall out between the CHRA and turbine housing.

Tune it right so the EGT's don't get stupid hot, replace the fastners with new ones and use the correct type where possible.

I also used to have problems with the turbo oil feed flange bolts backing out causing oil leaks and mess.

With problems like this I would be coating the entire thread heavily in permanent strength loktite

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

I have been using the stage 8 locking nuts along with inconel studs. They are definately not cheap but IMHO are the best you can get. There is no way they can loosen up. After a few thousand miles I had to remove the turbo and once the locks were removed I had to turn the nut one revolution and was able to loosen it the rest of the way by hand. These IMO will last beyond the life of the manifold.

These are the inconel studs from trackspeed engineering. Trackspeed Engineering

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

they should be called "hand over your wallet,and we'll keep your Nuts tight"!..wow.expensive is right!

Mrmatt3465

iTrader: (10)

Youll need bolts/nuts drilled on the head to be able to safety wire em. We use safety wire on everything from wheel hubcaps to engine thrust mount retainers on F-16s. Keeps everything tight and prevents them from vibrating out. Google safety wire and look at the images.

Matt

patman

iTrader: (3)

I used to have problems with this, switched to 304ss hardware and been ok since. Sometimes you break one when you take them apart, they do tend to freeze up, but I replace them anyway.

MIBagentQ

iTrader: (3)

Safety wiring is practically free, we do it a lot on race bikes.

Basically you would take a small drill bit (a drill press is awesome for this) and drill a small hole through the bold head, then feed safety wire through it and connect it to another bolt.



If possible, the angle that you safety wire at should be in the "tightening" direction like so.

killahrx7

Use 3rd gen rx7 manifold to engine nuts, never seen those backed off yet and they're cheap.