good question

 

Awesome write up! Excellent pics...congrats on a job well done!

 

So, any updates as of yet?? Inquiring minds want to know!

 

Well, to answer the previous questions, I had AAA tow my car to a muffler shop to get the exhaust work done. So I didn't have to guess on the piping.

I will be dynoing the car on a dyno day that Rotorsports is trying to do for some of their customers. It was gonna be tommorow, but they postponed it till a later date that I don't know of yet. I will post on this thread when I get the numbers. Thanks for all the feedback.

M-P

 

Ahhh the agony of more waiting. I'm sure it will be worth it though. Good luck with the car bro. And you couldn't have picked a better shop than Rotorsports Racing. Bryan kicks ***!!

Zach

 

how do you go about getting these options?
and what is wet center section?

 

"Water cooled"
"Dry center" implies oil cooled only with no coolant running through the center.



-Ted

 

so if its wet center does that mean its water cooled and oil cooled, or just water?

and which is a better way of cooling?

 

Yes, a wet center is fed both oil and water. The oil is for lubrication, not for cooling, even though it does transport some heat away from the turbo. A wet center section runs significantly cooler than a dry one, so water cooled is better for reliability.

 

He said exactly what I would have said. I have heard they can make the turbo last up to twice as long. Don't know the truth, but it definately can't hurt, especially with the overheating issue in FD's.

 

Hey!Come over to the new forum and post up some pics.There's no posts in single turbo discussion lol.

 

any numbers yet? i got the same turbo and i'm debating on the .96 open or the 1.0 divided turbine housing. hows your boost response?

 

Look back in this section for my dyno results sunday night. Gonna hit the dyno sat. morning but it is out of town and won't be home till sunday night. Boost response is alright, could be better though. Prob. full 15 by 4100-4200 in 3rd gear.

 

nice pic with your T04R setup, i was wondering what did you do with your pipe from the wastegate ???

could you PM me ???

 

i bought the same turbo as him w/o the coating on the turbine section and the dyno results are here posted by pluto:
oh yeah, i went with a 1.0 divided

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=300429

 

I don't see a TO4R in that list, this is what I see...

"Besides my GT4082, there was an Apexi RX6, 60-1, T04e and GT40R."

BTW Update: Just finished motor rebuild and am breaking it in as we speak, I will redyno it after my 1000 mile break-in.

It sucks not being able to get on it for 1000 miles.

 

1000 mile break in is honestly awefully excessive. After 300-400 miles the seals have all seated themselves as much as they are ever going to.

 

Oh really. I have read 500 miles below 4000rpm, then 250 below 4000 with more load and low boost, then the last 250 with mid boost up to around 5500-6000.

 

Mazda lists break in information on their website. The break in mileage for motors that do not have new bearings is significantly lower than for motors with new bearings.

http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/weba...1&subject=misc

 

Here is what that side said,

"The engine should first be run at idle for 30-45 minutes. During this time, be sure to check for leaks and keep an eye on the gauges. Ideally, for the first 100 miles (depending on use of new or used bearings), avoid operating the engine above 5000 rpm or under heavy load.

From 100-200 miles, gradually increase rpm, but never allow the engine to approach red line. Beyond 200 miles we recommend only short bursts of power approaching red line for 100 miles. At this point, change the break-in engine oil. The engine break-in period is now complete."

Not sure if this info is what I should do or if I should break-in any longer. Any other info would be great.

 

Hey the pics don't work anymore, is there another link to them somewhere?

 

that is the turbo i have and that is what produced the 474rwhp dyno chart from pluto. i took your info from the first page to a local turbo shop and voila, $1000 later i have what you have minus the ceramic coating on the turbine housing. it works great along with the new manifold.

http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...0&#entry523590

 

Actually they do still work, all in the first post on the first page, I just checked them.

Sorry didn't realize what you meant, but thats awesome.

 

Ted,

I've read and heard this as well. Can you point me to a good place to read up some more? (in reference to the equalizing pressure between runners)

Justin

 

To me this makes perfect sense, look at where the wastegate is... how is exhaust from the (far) runner supposed to get to the wastegate !? Unless you install a collector, for the wastegate, or install two wastegates, there is a possibility for you to overboost...