Yeah, youre going top need to have some machining done. At most you'll have enough room in the comp housing to go up 1 wheel size (and that's assuming the same backing plate diameter)
If you go w/the v or h-trim wheel you will only need to have the compressor housing machined. The 60-1 wheel would require machining of the housing and the backing plate. Also keep in mind that the stock afm only reads up to 45 lbs/min so it would be difficult to tune for the additional "benifits" of the 60-1 (57 lbs/min) w/ an rtek anyway. The h-trim (48 lbs/min) is a better fit from that perspective. |
I was running an H-trim hybrid and my turbine wheel let go and also ruined my compressor wheel. Then I switched to a 60-1 wheel and rebuilt it. The compressor housing and the backing plate had to be machined. The new compressor wheel was also too tall and had to be machined down. I really didn't notice a big difference in performance. Seems to pull a bit more on the top end. Power seems to be a bit smoother with the 60-1. It's hard to tell also because I switched from an s4 turbo and manifold to an s5. I'm running 18lbs boost dropping to 15lbs at redline.
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When do you see 17psi? Did you replace the stock turbine wheel or upgrade it to a p-trim wheel? Any idea on power output?
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Mine is my own rendition of a BNR Stage 1/2. It has the full T04B compressor housing like the stage2 but is only using the stage1 compessor wheel. I have the internal wastegates blocked off by welded metal plate and no backcut and the standard series 5 turbine wheel and housing. I will post up some data logs later. |
If you welded the internal wg shut how is your setup routed?
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Originally Posted by sharingan 19
(Post 11147550)
If you welded the internal wg shut how is your setup routed?
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